Looking forward to your photos, Dave.
AL Colonial Schooner "Independence" by DocBlake - 5/16" scale
I finally made the conversion to stub masts and bowsprit. I save the full masts and spars and didn't glue the stub parts in place in case I change my mind. The only jobs left are to finish and mout the swivel guns, rig the cannons and rig a single anchor.
Very nice, the wood colour combi looks great.
Herasee !!! Burn the heretic!!! First it's fictional, then you have the audacity to change it???
Oh the gods of historical correctness surely with to give you 1000 lashes with a wet noodle!!
Honestly and seriously, how the h e double hockey sticks do you make such superb perfect models Doc?
If I only had half of your skill, you'd still be twice as skilled. Beautiful ship my friend, absolutely beautiful
Just catching up on your build log Doc. Thats a fine looking model.
Thanks so much for the kind words and the "likes" guys!
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I am learning by just closely seeing the work that you do. Thanks for the excellent photos of an excellent build. PT-2
Thanks, guys!
Time to get to work on the swivel guns. I can't remember where I picked up the guns that I used. The scale of this model is weird so there are no commercial swivels. I had to make my own. The barrels for the 2 pounder swivels measured about 32 scale inches long. Slightly short, but passable.
My first step was to silver solder some brass rod to each gun as a handle. I the made the gun brackets from sheet brass and brass rod, and drilled holes for the trunions. Lastly, afrer blackening all the parts, I made the little balls on the ends of the handle. I build up several layers of thin CA glue until I got the size I wanted, then painted them red. Next is assembling the guns and mounting them.
Time to get to work on the swivel guns. I can't remember where I picked up the guns that I used. The scale of this model is weird so there are no commercial swivels. I had to make my own. The barrels for the 2 pounder swivels measured about 32 scale inches long. Slightly short, but passable.
My first step was to silver solder some brass rod to each gun as a handle. I the made the gun brackets from sheet brass and brass rod, and drilled holes for the trunions. Lastly, afrer blackening all the parts, I made the little balls on the ends of the handle. I build up several layers of thin CA glue until I got the size I wanted, then painted them red. Next is assembling the guns and mounting them.
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Thanks, guys!
I finished up the anchors. The stocks are swiss pear, shaped and tapered. The anchor's themselves were supplied with the kit, and I wasn't to sure about the U-shape. Royal Navy anchors were more "V" shaped in the latter 18th century. The shape was more typical of Continental anchors, so would have been in use on a schooner like this I went with the kit anchors. The simulated metal bands on the stocks are thin slices of shrink-wrap electrical insulation. Cut to size, slip in place and heat in a 300 degree oven for 5 minutes. Done!
I finished up the anchors. The stocks are swiss pear, shaped and tapered. The anchor's themselves were supplied with the kit, and I wasn't to sure about the U-shape. Royal Navy anchors were more "V" shaped in the latter 18th century. The shape was more typical of Continental anchors, so would have been in use on a schooner like this I went with the kit anchors. The simulated metal bands on the stocks are thin slices of shrink-wrap electrical insulation. Cut to size, slip in place and heat in a 300 degree oven for 5 minutes. Done!
Even though I used the kit parts as templates for my remade anchor stocks (using swiss pear), I really didn't like how they turned out. The stocks are too clunky and I didn't like the reinforcing band placement. So I made them over.
Much better, I think!
Much better, I think!
Hello Dave, these are nice stocks for sure. What material do you use for reinforcement bands?
I use electrical insulation that shrinks when heated. It comes in tubes of various sizes. You can find it in the electrical department at any big box store, or buy enough to supply several lifetimes on the internet!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QM8249H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To use, choose an appropriate diameter tube and slice off the bands with a sharp X-Acto knife. Slip them on the stock in proper position and put the stock in a preheated 300 degree oven for 5-10 minutes. Done!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QM8249H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To use, choose an appropriate diameter tube and slice off the bands with a sharp X-Acto knife. Slip them on the stock in proper position and put the stock in a preheated 300 degree oven for 5-10 minutes. Done!
This is great. Many thanks for the tip and link, Dave.
Excellent log, great presentation of your skills and technique. I would never have thought of using shrink tubing for the reinforcement bands.
Jan
Jan
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
The ship looks great, and I love the overall work you have done.
Sometimes I think a modeler is cheating when making a stub mast model with no rigging, but it helps show the true beauty of the ship build in its own right!
Sometimes I think a modeler is cheating when making a stub mast model with no rigging, but it helps show the true beauty of the ship build in its own right!
Thanks, guys!
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Sometimes I think a modeler is cheating when making a stub mast model with no rigging ...
Nope. In many cases the rigging - because of the height of the masts and large sail areas - dominate the overall effect when the ship is viewed in full. A model which only features stub masts places the emphasis on the ship itself. So, it is a question of horses for courses. I am with Doc on this one.
Nope. In many cases the rigging - because of the height of the masts and large sail areas - dominate the overall effect when the ship is viewed in full. A model which only features stub masts places the emphasis on the ship itself. So, it is a question of horses for courses. I am with Doc on this one.
The anchor stocks are really looking better - they were too thick in the beginning, so the ratio between length thickness and depth was somehow incorrect.
A very good tip with the shrinking insulation!
I agree here with you - it is different, but you can concentrate with your view on the hull form and the deck installations