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This is the lobster smack I am building. I was referring to yours. The hull is primed, got to line the water line. Unfortunately the Midwest kit came with acrylic paint, and I just purchased Testors yellow oil based for the hull, light yellow for the deck. I hate acrylic paint!Hi Titanic, You must be referring to my Lobster Smack build log and how I keep pressure on glue joints while I listen to music. I didn't know that about using PVA like contact cement. Thanks for the tip.

I use PVA glue. My orange box store sells Titebond in many varieties. I've used original and not had any issues.I broke one of the planks, covered it with filler, more light sanding.
Newbie errors with glues...I tried Testor's wood and metal glue, what a disaster! I tries Aeleene's and Aeleene's Ultimate. These glues were great on my paper and card model of the HMS Alert by Ship Yard, but they left a very hard, almost impossible to remove rubbery substance, not good for wooden ship models, and I tried E6000, a contact adhesive, also not the best for wooden ship models. It took too long to set as well.
Now I am using EVERGREEN yellow wood glue...AHHHH! Yellow wood glue, works very well...learning! And if you good up on the gluing, the yelloe wood glue releases with rubbing alcohol!!! (I mess up an awful lot)
Titanic,For bending the planking, there are quite a few threads on here about it. I soak it in water for a few minutes and then apply heat from a soldering iron
yes, you have to keep the wood wet with repeated dips in the water. That way it won't scorch the wood.Titanic,
That was my go to for a long time, but a hot air gun with a temperature controller is far easier and if kept in a mid range temperature setting will not scorch the wood.
Allan

You can use s sponge to apply the water.The problem for me was never broad bending, but rather edge bending which is necessary to shape the plank so it does not lift and glued to the hull. If heating in order to edge bend, there is no way to repeatedly dip the wood as it is clamped to the forming piece. The pic below shows what I mean and when I was using a soldering gun instead of hot air. Hot air gets around the clamps and such a lot better, but both ways does work. You can see the soaked plank as it gets darker when thoroughly soaked. When it dries it goes back to its original color. I used to spile the planks but as most folks work with strips of straight wood, this hot edge bending is about the same as spiling and for me it is easier.
Allan
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well doneMe thinks my thread has been hijacked. Oh well, I'm almost done with it. Finished the Albatros today except for making and adding some rope hanks. Overall I'm not totally pleased with it but learned a lot in the process. Very happy about how the hull turned out but had some issues with the rigging. I wish the instructions were more informative about how to do the rigging rather than just pictures and a list of ropes to be strung. Also I learned that the order specified in the instructions/pictures is not necessarily the best order. With some ropes that had no end points specified, I just had to wing it. Looking forward to my next build that I hopefully can start after the holidays. Probably the Occre HMS Beagle.
Here are the latest photos of my Albatros.
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