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Albatros by Occre - Fourth build but first Ship

Wow! There are so many tips and ideas in this thread I'm going to have to read it about ten times. I'm building my first ship, the Albatros, and I really identify as a noob.
 
I can't believe how long it's been since I last posted here. Just got back from a cruise on a real ship and it's taking me awhile to catch up on chores and get back to my normal routine. Before we left I had completed the standing rigging and started the running rigging. I just completed hanging my first sail. Had a lot of problems with the little brass rings attaching the sail to the stay, but finally figured out the best way to do that. Here is a pic of that sail.

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The next step has me baffled. I'm on step to add ropes 163 to the ends of the bottom yard on the fore mast running to a double block on the main mast. Nowhere does it mention attaching the yard to the fore mast. There is a brass eyelet on both the yard and mast where they cross. Am I supposed to tie those together or is the yard just supposed to float there until more rigging is attached.

Hopefully I'll get back in the groove before taking my next trip.
 
Back from another cruise this fall and I'm trying to put this ship to bed. Here is what it looks like in it's current shape. I have one more sail to hang and several ropes hanging loose to tie off and then the tender need to be hung off the stern.

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I am very displeased about the rigging instructions and have a few questions that some of you that have finished this ship might answer.

1. Diagram D of the rigging instructions. The boom? coming off the main mast has two blocks at the end of it. The instructions show a single rope #168 coming off the block at the end of the boom. I assume there would be two of the #168 ropes. Diagram H shows that rope #168 attaches to belaying pins on either side of the stern. Again I assume one of the #168 ropes goes to each. Can I also assume that the other end of each of those ropes attach to the eyebolts on the deck?

2. Diagram G shows one rope # 195 attaching to a block at the end of the fore mast boom. Again, there are two blocks on the end of that boom so I assume there are two ropes #195. Diagram H shows #195 attaching to the two eyebolts on the deck. Where does the other end of those ropes attach?

3. Diagram G shows the rope #201, which raises the flag, attaching to the end of the boom on the main mast and diagram H shows one attachment point on a belaying pin for #201. Do both ends of that rope attach to the same pin?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

During our cruise, we were in Norfolk Va. and our ship was docked right next to a two masted schooner. Two women were up on the fore top removing the upper mast. At this point they were loosening the mast so that it could be slid down. Then they had to remove any hardware from the very top before they could completely remove it. It was interesting to watch.
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A thin coat of PVA on each piece to be joined, then left to dry, makes a good contact cement that is easily (?) removed with rubbing alcohol. 70% from the grocery store works to unfasten unwanted glue joints but 94% works better. That you can find at a pharmacy.
I am doing the Midwest Lobster Smack now, the hull is finished, and I spent more time fixing what I messed up (and Broke) than in actually building.
Watching your build as I am considering what to build next.
Have fun, my wife, who is the Captain of my ship, charges me a dollar for each cuss word and I pay it because not paying means no breakfast! (I believe the Navy calls that standing before the Captain's Mast!)
 
Hi Titanic, You must be referring to my Lobster Smack build log and how I keep pressure on glue joints while I listen to music. I didn't know that about using PVA like contact cement. Thanks for the tip.
 
Hi Titanic, You must be referring to my Lobster Smack build log and how I keep pressure on glue joints while I listen to music. I didn't know that about using PVA like contact cement. Thanks for the tip.
This is the lobster smack I am building. I was referring to yours. The hull is primed, got to line the water line. Unfortunately the Midwest kit came with acrylic paint, and I just purchased Testors yellow oil based for the hull, light yellow for the deck. I hate acrylic paint!
Like you, once this is finished I will be looking for another ship to build. You can see the broken plank in this photo. I have a propensity for breaking balsa! More filler and sanding.

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I broke one of the planks, covered it with filler, more light sanding.
Newbie errors with glues...I tried Testor's wood and metal glue, what a disaster! I tries Aeleene's and Aeleene's Ultimate. These glues were great on my paper and card model of the HMS Alert by Ship Yard, but they left a very hard, almost impossible to remove rubbery substance, not good for wooden ship models, and I tried E6000, a contact adhesive, also not the best for wooden ship models. It took too long to set as well.
Now I am using EVERGREEN yellow wood glue...AHHHH! Yellow wood glue, works very well...learning! And if you good up on the gluing, the yelloe wood glue releases with rubbing alcohol!!! (I mess up an awful lot)
 
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I broke one of the planks, covered it with filler, more light sanding.
Newbie errors with glues...I tried Testor's wood and metal glue, what a disaster! I tries Aeleene's and Aeleene's Ultimate. These glues were great on my paper and card model of the HMS Alert by Ship Yard, but they left a very hard, almost impossible to remove rubbery substance, not good for wooden ship models, and I tried E6000, a contact adhesive, also not the best for wooden ship models. It took too long to set as well.
Now I am using EVERGREEN yellow wood glue...AHHHH! Yellow wood glue, works very well...learning! And if you good up on the gluing, the yelloe wood glue releases with rubbing alcohol!!! (I mess up an awful lot)
I use PVA glue. My orange box store sells Titebond in many varieties. I've used original and not had any issues.
For bending the planking, there are quite a few threads on here about it. I soak it in water for a few minutes and then apply heat from a soldering iron (the heating element barrel part, not the point) as I bend it to shape. I may have to repeat the process to get the full bend I want. You want the plank to be in the shape needed to go onto the hull without applying pressure. Hope that helps !
 
For bending the planking, there are quite a few threads on here about it. I soak it in water for a few minutes and then apply heat from a soldering iron
Titanic,
That was my go to for a long time, but a hot air gun with a temperature controller is far easier and if kept in a mid range temperature setting will not scorch the wood.
Allan
 
The problem for me was never broad bending, but rather edge bending which is necessary to shape the plank so it does not lift and glued to the hull. If heating in order to edge bend, there is no way to repeatedly dip the wood as it is clamped to the forming piece. The pic below shows what I mean and when I was using a soldering gun instead of hot air. Hot air gets around the clamps and such a lot better, but both ways does work. You can see the soaked plank as it gets darker when thoroughly soaked. When it dries it goes back to its original color. I used to spile the planks but as most folks work with strips of straight wood, this hot edge bending is about the same as spiling and for me it is easier.
Allan

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The problem for me was never broad bending, but rather edge bending which is necessary to shape the plank so it does not lift and glued to the hull. If heating in order to edge bend, there is no way to repeatedly dip the wood as it is clamped to the forming piece. The pic below shows what I mean and when I was using a soldering gun instead of hot air. Hot air gets around the clamps and such a lot better, but both ways does work. You can see the soaked plank as it gets darker when thoroughly soaked. When it dries it goes back to its original color. I used to spile the planks but as most folks work with strips of straight wood, this hot edge bending is about the same as spiling and for me it is easier.
Allan

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You can use s sponge to apply the water. :)
 
Or a spray bottle? :) :) The following may be of interest, from David Antscherl's The Fully Framed Model, Volume1, page 169
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Me thinks my thread has been hijacked. Oh well, I'm almost done with it. Finished the Albatros today except for making and adding some rope hanks. Overall I'm not totally pleased with it but learned a lot in the process. Very happy about how the hull turned out but had some issues with the rigging. I wish the instructions were more informative about how to do the rigging rather than just pictures and a list of ropes to be strung. Also I learned that the order specified in the instructions/pictures is not necessarily the best order. With some ropes that had no end points specified, I just had to wing it. Looking forward to my next build that I hopefully can start after the holidays. Probably the Occre HMS Beagle.

Here are the latest photos of my Albatros.
20251120_144850.jpg20251120_144855.jpg20251120_144927.jpg20251120_144947.jpg20251120_182936.jpg20251120_182951.jpg
 
Me thinks my thread has been hijacked. Oh well, I'm almost done with it. Finished the Albatros today except for making and adding some rope hanks. Overall I'm not totally pleased with it but learned a lot in the process. Very happy about how the hull turned out but had some issues with the rigging. I wish the instructions were more informative about how to do the rigging rather than just pictures and a list of ropes to be strung. Also I learned that the order specified in the instructions/pictures is not necessarily the best order. With some ropes that had no end points specified, I just had to wing it. Looking forward to my next build that I hopefully can start after the holidays. Probably the Occre HMS Beagle.

Here are the latest photos of my Albatros.
View attachment 558321View attachment 558322View attachment 558323View attachment 558324View attachment 558325View attachment 558326
well done
 
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