Artesania Latina Anatomy of Lord Nelson’s HMS Victory Trafalgar 1805

[GIG1810]

Hey Tony,
as I said, great job. This kit is quite a challenge and you're doing a great job. The only thing to say about the colors of the HMS Victory, even if some people don't like it, the Victory had the colors light pink to terracota. This is now scientifically proven. Even if we don't like to hear it. If someone wants to build the Victory according to the historical design, he must unfortunately also take the new color and represent it. Unless, like me, you build the Victory before 1778, but if you don't care, you can go back to the bee look. We probably all have them in our hearts that way.

Best regards
Günther

 

[TonyJ]

Wow Tony
You’ve made a flying start (Spitfire Ale )
Great work, you’ll be catching up with me soon!!
Looking forward to seeing you progress
Sorry I hadn’t seen and commented on your posts earlier, I’ve been tied up on the hull planking so haven’t logged in for a while
Regards
Alan

I love the Spitfire Ale and the odd Bishops Finger. My wife's family originate from Margate so I have sampled a few Kentish Ales. Oh I doubt I will catch you up anytime soon. I was thinking about all the repetitive tasks ahead, cannon and opening up gun ports, hours of fun!
Regards
T

 

[TonyJ]

Hey Tony,
as I said, great job. This kit is quite a challenge and you're doing a great job. The only thing to say about the colors of the HMS Victory, even if some people don't like it, the Victory had the colors light pink to terracota. This is now scientifically proven. Even if we don't like to hear it. If someone wants to build the Victory according to the historical design, he must unfortunately also take the new color and represent it. Unless, like me, you build the Victory before 1778, but if you don't care, you can go back to the bee look. We probably all have them in our hearts that way.

Best regards
Günther

Thanks
Yes, I like the yellow and since it does not really concern me that much will probably go that route.
Regards
T

 

[RussF]

Hi Russ
It works for me. I understand what you are saying re the grain, in the hold is the only place I will use the boxwood, thanks for the advice. I did ponder why AL did not provide the parts for the hold as pre-cut lasered parts similar to the rooms for the orlop deck? Then figured that you may not be able to etch the planks on BOTH sides of the sheet, maybe?
Regards
T

Actually, with proper jigging and good CAD work, you can laser both sides. On the main (front) side of the part, you would draw the back side laser patterns over them in a different color and a separate layer. Then you would transfer that layer to a separate drawing and mirror it. You would have a jig that the blank would fit into snugly with two positions. Lay the blank in the 1st position and laser the backside, move it to the second position (flipping it over) and put a fresh blank in the first and then both would be lasered, the backside onto the first position, and the front side with all the thru-cuts onto the second position.

But ... that takes extra time and time is money ... so ... you can figure out why they don't do it from here.

I think you made the right choice though, and your craftsmanship is great!

 

[AlanOES]

Hi Grant
I'm with you on this one, I kind of like the Victory in the more yellow colour. I may go for this colour even though the pinker colour is more accurate for the time.
Regards
T

I’m of the same opinion so I will be staying with yellow ochre
I not overly convinced about that pinkish colour, there were several paintings of Victory and other British ships of line after the battle of Trafalgar (Turners, for example, painted between 1806 and 1808) that show them with a more yellowish hue
My opinion only, but I won’t be using the supplied pink colour

 

[TonyJ]

Actually, with proper jigging and good CAD work, you can laser both sides. On the main (front) side of the part, you would draw the back side laser patterns over them in a different color and a separate layer. Then you would transfer that layer to a separate drawing and mirror it. You would have a jig that the blank would fit into snugly with two positions. Lay the blank in the 1st position and laser the backside, move it to the second position (flipping it over) and put a fresh blank in the first and then both would be lasered, the backside onto the first position, and the front side with all the thru-cuts onto the second position.

But ... that takes extra time and time is money ... so ... you can figure out why they don't do it from here.

I think you made the right choice though, and your craftsmanship is great!

Wow thanks for the concise reply. Thanks

 

[TonyJ]

I’m of the same opinion so I will be staying with yellow ochre
I not overly convinced about that pinkish colour, there were several paintings of Victory and other British ships of line after the battle of Trafalgar (Turners, for example, painted between 1806 and 1808) that show them with a more yellowish hue
My opinion only, but I won’t be using the supplied pink colour

View attachment 519876

Go yellow then

 

[TonyJ]

Video 4 Completed
Hi Everyone
More work in the hold. Work pics up building the main stern storage room.




I usually cut the pieces out a little on the oversize then test fit and sand back where necessary.




Quite happy with the it at this stage. But I do want to dry fit the beams to make sure there is nothing too high.


I've test fitted the beam on top of the pump well room. Perfect after a little sanding to the base of the room.


The beams locate in the housings with no issues.


Once again a little sanding here and there around the base of the room and the beams slotted into place without bending. I did dry drop the orlop deck on at this point and all seemed fine.


Work continued with the stern wall.



Instructions ask you do attach this wall exactly 7mm behind a rib, so to ensure this was correct I cut 2 small 7mm spacers and attached them to the hull where they would not be seen. The reason the wall needed to be placed exactly 7mm from the rib is that there is a shelf attached to the wall and its legs need to fall directly on top of the rib.




Here the wall is in place as well as the shelf.







That's the stern rooms complete video 5 will start the aft compartment.

Thanks for watching
T

 

[GIG1810]

I’m of the same opinion so I will be staying with yellow ochre
I not overly convinced about that pinkish colour, there were several paintings of Victory and other British ships of line after the battle of Trafalgar (Turners, for example, painted between 1806 and 1808) that show them with a more yellowish hue
My opinion only, but I won’t be using the supplied pink colour

View attachment 519876

Hey Alan,

At the time, the artist was free to paint the Victory as he wished. Sometimes white, sometimes ochre, or even in natural colors, wood-colored, honey-colored, etc.
When I read about the scientific studio, I also thought, wow, there's no accounting for taste. But the fact is that paint was really expensive back then and not easy to produce and not always available. That's why, as I've read, rust was used as a coloring agent.....But I also like it best in its old ochre look.

Best regards
Günter

 

[GIG1810]

I like it best in its original state and that's how I'll build it when I'm done with the Athena...

Best regards
Günther

 

[GIG1810]

Video 4 Completed
Hi Everyone
More work in the hold. Work pics up building the main stern storage room.

View attachment 519891

View attachment 519892View attachment 519893
I usually cut the pieces out a little on the oversize then test fit and sand back where necessary.

View attachment 519894

View attachment 519895
Quite happy with the it at this stage. But I do want to dry fit the beams to make sure there is nothing too high.

View attachment 519896
I've test fitted the beam on top of the pump well room. Perfect after a little sanding to the base of the room.

View attachment 519897
The beams locate in the housings with no issues.

View attachment 519898
Once again a little sanding here and there around the base of the room and the beams slotted into place without bending. I did dry drop the orlop deck on at this point and all seemed fine.

View attachment 519899
Work continued with the stern wall.

View attachment 519901

Instructions ask you do attach this wall exactly 7mm behind a rib, so to ensure this was correct I cut 2 small 7mm spacers and attached them to the hull where they would not be seen. The reason the wall needed to be placed exactly 7mm from the rib is that there is a shelf attached to the wall and its legs need to fall directly on top of the rib.

View attachment 519902

View attachment 519906
Here the wall is in place as well as the shelf.

View attachment 519903

View attachment 519904

View attachment 519905

That's the stern rooms complete video 5 will start the aft compartment.

Thanks for watching
T

View attachment 519900

Hey Tony,
really great realized and you build in a speed, Mama mia..... great. I have one question for you though; how do you paint the planks? With an airbrush or a brush, could you tell me which painting technique you use?

Best regards
Günther

 

[TonyJ]

Hey Tony,
really great realized and you build in a speed, Mama mia..... great. I have one question for you though; how do you paint the planks? With an airbrush or a brush, could you tell me which painting technique you use?

Best regards
Günther

Hi Günther
The internal stained planking I brush painted but the majority of the outside etc will be done by airbrush and I suspect a great deal of masking which I don't mind. The inside red of the gun ports will probably be hand brushed. Having served my apprenticeship as a graphic artist (100 years ago) long before computers my hand brushing skills are still respectable but I feel airbrushing will give a better finish as long as the surface is prepared accordingly. To be honest having been a plastic kit modeller for so long I've never airbrushed on timber so we will see how we go.
Regards
T

 

[GIG1810]

Hey Tony,

thanks for your reply. Your brushstrokes are amazing. It looks very nice. You didn't apply the paint too thickly either. You have created a beautiful painting. I really like it. I also come from a plastic construction background and am familiar with the airbrush. I'm always very careful with brushes. Too much makes bubbles and too little paint makes streaks. That's why I prefer airbrushing.
I remain faithful to your build report.

Best regards
Günther

 

[TonyJ]

Hey Tony,

thanks for your reply. Your brushstrokes are amazing. It looks very nice. You didn't apply the paint too thickly either. You have created a beautiful painting. I really like it. I also come from a plastic construction background and am familiar with the airbrush. I'm always very careful with brushes. Too much makes bubbles and too little paint makes streaks. That's why I prefer airbrushing.
I remain faithful to your build report.

Best regards
Günther

 

[TonyJ]

Video 5 Complete
Hi Everyone
Work in the hold continues.


Gunpowder room.








The copper tape supplied is pretty good but a couple of things I found whilst using it.
1 - Cut your length about 10mm oversize each end, it makes handling it much easier.
2 - As in the image below, lay the tape face down and pull the backing paper away. If you pull the copper tape away it tends to buckle.














As previous room I dry fitted the assembly with the beams in place. It did take a couple of areas to be sanded. All fitted well.




Ladder and air vents added.


Wall and shelf completed video 5

Thanks for watching
T