Artesania Latina Anatomy of Lord Nelson’s HMS Victory Trafalgar 1805

[AlanOES]

Video 6 - Complete (Part 2)
More work on the hold items.

I decided to add to the items in the hold, so I scratch built a few boxes and crates and filled some with rope.

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I read that there would have been timber for the carpenter to do repairs so I added a small amount just to add some more interest

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The support posts have now been added. I ignored the instructions stating the length of each individual post and used the beams as a guide to measure how high each post needed to be. I didn't trust that my fitting of the internal planking and the rooms etc would be 100% accurate. So starting at one end of the ship I gradually added the beams measuring the length each post needed to be.

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A dry fit of the Orlop deck confirmed the extra work was worth it.

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Thanks for looking
T
.

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Lovely work again Tony and some nice additions

 

[TonyJ]

Nice work Tony, glad my tip has come in useful. Good shout on the flour sacks

Great work Tony, glad my tip has come in useful. Good shout on the flour sacks but to be honest, that area of the hold I’d barely visible once the orlop deck is in place. Saying that, I still might do a couple using your method and get them in there with long tweezers or use them elsewhere on the ship

Thanks Alan. Ooooooo lights next

 

[GIG1810]

Hey Tony,

fantastic, keep it up. The tuning of the barrels and crates is really great.
The wood would probably not be so clever, as heavy wooden edges always have to come up, especially as there is a risk of moisture and the wood can then rot. But still a nice idea.

Cheers
Günther

 

[AlanOES]

Thanks Alan. Ooooooo lights next

Good luck with the lighting
Don’t forget to try to double up on each beam to cut down on the number of cables coming back. I found I had to cut a deeper groove than they suggest to accommodate the 4 wires as in the video

 

[TonyJ]

Lovely work again Tony and some nice additions

Good luck with the lighting
Don’t forget to try to double up on each beam to cut down on the number of cables coming back. I found I had to cut a deeper groove than they suggest to accommodate the 4 wires as in the video

Thanks Alan, as we talked about a while ago I never really understood why they did this with the hold, I think they said because they had the room. I will heed your advice. and connect two lights in parallel to have only one set of wires. Talking about the grooves, did you have any trouble applying pressure to the beams as they are bowed. I'm hoping the wood is softer than the two planks either side of the top of the keel which were a challenge for for tp scrape cleanly.
Regards
Tony

 

[TonyJ]

Hey Tony,

fantastic, keep it up. The tuning of the barrels and crates is really great.
The wood would probably not be so clever, as heavy wooden edges always have to come up, especially as there is a risk of moisture and the wood can then rot. But still a nice idea.

Cheers
Günther

Thanks Günther. Yep the wood was just an afterthought to add a bit more in there. I can live with that.

 

[AlanOES]

Thanks Alan, as we talked about a while ago I never really understood why they did this with the hold, I think they said because they had the room. I will heed your advice. and connect two lights in parallel to have only one set of wires. Talking about the grooves, did you have any trouble applying pressure to the beams as they are bowed. I'm hoping the wood is softer than the two planks either side of the top of the keel which were a challenge for for tp scrape cleanly.
Regards
Tony

Hi Tony
The beams do spring back to shape once you’ve put pressure on them
I didn’t find it a problem
Regards
Alan

 

[TonyJ]

Hi Alan
OK great I though they would snap.
Cheers
T

 

[TonyJ]

IMG_3171 by Tony Johnson, on Flickr

 

[AlanOES]

IMG_3171 by Tony Johnson, on Flickr

Hi Tony
Have you tried grooving them out yet?

 

[TonyJ]

Hi Alan
I posted this by mistake. I am currently trying to change my current hosting site to Flickr and accidentally posted this pic. Yes I have grooved the hold beams and went in with a folded piece of sandpaper to just enlarge the groove a bit more. I intend NOT to follow the instructions and wire each lamp individually but wire one set of wires in series which should be easier. Now just got to nail this soldering task. I've studied the videos a few times and have come the the conclusion because there are 6 switches, each deck will terminate to a single pair of wires and possibly a single set of wires for the 3 aft lanterns. Or something along those lines. Guests are here another 3 weeks then I can start again!.
Regards
Tony

 

[AlanOES]

Hi Alan
I posted this by mistake. I am currently trying to change my current hosting site to Flickr and accidentally posted this pic. Yes I have grooved the hold beams and went in with a folded piece of sandpaper to just enlarge the groove a bit more. I intend NOT to follow the instructions and wire each lamp individually but wire one set of wires in series which should be easier. Now just got to nail this soldering task. I've studied the videos a few times and have come the the conclusion because there are 6 switches, each deck will terminate to a single pair of wires and possibly a single set of wires for the 3 aft lanterns. Or something along those lines. Guests are here another 3 weeks then I can start again!.
Regards
Tony

Ok, is the hosting site for something else? ( I don’t use a hosting site to upload my photos to this site). You’re right about the lighting, I currently have 6 pairs of cables protruding at the base of the hull, they will switch individually the hold,orlop, lower middle and upper gun decks plus the quarter deck and rear lanterns. There is also the Admiral”s lantern on the main mast fighting top that has its own battery and switch.
What is it your having trouble with on the soldering? perhaps I can offer some advice
I’m taking several days off from the build as I am trying to put together a comprehensive list of all my model railway locomotives and rolling stock ( there’s a lot) for possible sale to one of these companies that buy up your whole collection. I will be sad to see it go but with the Victory project I’m not doing much on the layout now and after my brother died suddenly I thought, if that happened to me, my kids and grandkids aren’t interested in it and it would probably get thrown out as they would not be aware of it’s true value
We”ll see as I have a figure in mind
Regards
Alan

 

[TonyJ]

I wasn't aware you could simply import pics straight from my hard drive. Thought you had to use a host, how dumb of me!
With the soldering I have watched more how to do videos and now think I have a better handle on how its done. Best of luck with the selling of the railway stuff.
This video seems the way to go. I was simply touching the wire to the lamp terminal and trying to flood the joint with solder WRONG!!! I see that tinning the tip of the iron is correct. I will give it a go.

 

[AlanOES]

I wasn't aware you could simply import pics straight from my hard drive. Thought you had to use a host, how dumb of me!
With the soldering I have watched more how to do videos and now think I have a better handle on how its done. Best of luck with the selling of the railway stuff.
This video seems the way to go. I was simply touching the wire to the lamp terminal and trying to flood the joint with solder WRONG!!! I see that tinning the tip of the iron is correct. I will give it a go.

Yeah tinning is the way to do it
A thin layer of solder on the led tabs ( once you’ve pushed through the holes in the beam and bent over slightly) and on the stripped wire, hold them together and touch the iron on them and they will flow together like magic
Being a spark I already knew that as I’ve been soldering thing for years, but as they say, it’s only easy if you know how. I also use a digital soldering iron that keeps it a a constant set temperature for different types of jobs

 

[AlanOES]

I wasn't aware you could simply import pics straight from my hard drive. Thought you had to use a host, how dumb of me!
With the soldering I have watched more how to do videos and now think I have a better handle on how its done. Best of luck with the selling of the railway stuff.
This video seems the way to go. I was simply touching the wire to the lamp terminal and trying to flood the joint with solder WRONG!!! I see that tinning the tip of the iron is correct. I will give it a go.

Because I use this site from my iPhone and the videos I take are with my phone this site doesn’t recognise the video format so I can’t upload my videos like I can to the facebook site I put my build on

 

[giocomail]

Video 2 Complete
Hi everyone
Started to plank the inside of the hold.

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The cut out side showing the planking going just above the edge. This will need to be sanded flush later.

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Some filling required around the cutout housings.

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The kit provides a wooden template to mark the positions of the 8 ribs. More on this later.

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There is also a paper template to mark the positions of what I believe are the base of the main mast and the pumps.

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Back to the ribs. Although the wooden template provided allows you to accurately marks the positions of the ribs I had a better idea.
I had read a post somewhere by another modeller to use the Orlop deck as a guide to ensure the ribs extend through the gap correctly, this seemed like good advice to me.
But it struck me that I could utilise the wooden template as a second guide to ensure the spacing was correct. All I needed to do was glue in the first rib, using the Orlop deck as a guide. Then as I went along adding the ribs I kept locking in the wooden template along the top of the keel.

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Here you can see the second rib in position, the Orlop deck ensuring the top is in perfect alignment and the wooden jig ensuring the spacing is correct in the middle. Not sure why AL don't suggest this.

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This is why you need to be accurate here there is no room for error. Any misalignment will give you heaps of pain when fitting the Orlop deck.

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The completed ribs in place.

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The hold stained using the AL #6 Oak stain.

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Thanks for watching
Tony

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Hi, I'm absolutely amazed at your work, it's truly perfect. I'm doing the same build, but when it came time to install the orlop deck, I realized that the hold structures were all at least 4mm high. So I dismantled everything and started over. I wanted to ask if you made the mitre on the inside of the frames or if you glued the strips directly. One more thing: how did you go about placing the triangular strip in the central area where the ribs rest, and did you sand them to make them fit perfectly? I noticed you used plywood to assemble the bulkheads from the template. How thick is it? I wanted to ask if you could send me the template for the mast foot and pump areas in PDF format. Thanks, and sorry for my many questions.

 

[TonyJ]

Hi
Thanks for the kind words. I think I just glued the strips directly. I don't recall having to sand the triangular strips where the ribs rest. I bought the Basswood sheets from amazon they where 1.5mm thick I think I posted a pic earlier in the build. All the templates you need are included in the kit. I have not worked on the kit for a few months now (for a few reasons) but will return to it soon by starting the lights in the hold.
Thanks
Tony

 

[giocomail]

Hi
Thanks for the kind words. I think I just glued the strips directly. I don't recall having to sand the triangular strips where the ribs rest. I bought the Basswood sheets from amazon they where 1.5mm thick I think I posted a pic earlier in the build. All the templates you need are included in the kit. I have not worked on the kit for a few months now (for a few reasons) but will return to it soon by starting the lights in the hold.
Thanks
Tony

Thank you for the feedback. Could you make me a copy of the templates of bui I was saying that unfortunately I lost? Thanks