BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame

AlessandroROMA said:
Ciao Peter, per me le tue spiegazioni e le tue foto (fai benissimo a documentare tutte le fasi in modo progressivo e dettagliato) sono lezioni di modellismo.

Hi Peter, for me your explanations and your photos (you do very well at documenting all the phases in a progressive and detailed way) are modeling lessons.
Click to expand...
Thanks very very much, Alessandro.
I do my best to keep it interesting.
Regards, Peter
 
Then it is now frame 33's turn. The point / rear of the kossing rests on the deck beam of this frame.

Here too I had to think one step ahead. Frame 33 is part of the cargo hold for the herring barrels. A transverse bulkhead is placed on the frames every second frames. It makes it easy that it is always the frames with an odd number. The distance between these odd frames is derived from the height of the barrels. The barrels are stacked on their sides between the bulkheads:
0154 Tonnen.jpg
The barrels then rest against the frame placed between the two 'odd' frames. This has a retaining frame up to the deck and then also serves as a weighing. The drawing does show some weighing planks. I'll see later how that looks in the model.
Each room has its own hatch on the deck, which is also tailored to the size of the barrels.

I mentioned earlier that every frame with a deck beam has a retaining frame up to the height of the bilge. A U-profile is placed on the retaining frame in which the transverse bulkhead is placed. A U-profile has also been installed along the deck beam. The planks that form the bulkhead are then slid into those U-profiles.

But a photo makes more clear than a piece of text. I took photos of different steps of making the frame and shows all the parts.

Before bending the curve, I first warm the strip a bit. I first did that on the side of a kettle. But I still have an old-fashioned halogen lamp hanging above my work table. It also provides a lot of warmth. I now move the strip along that and start bending:
0155 Romp-Profiel.jpg
I use the print of the frame and bend along the lines. Here the formation of the retaining frame. I first bend the strip a little beyond the curve and then feed it back to the stripe of the print.

The same with the deck beam:
0156 Dekbalk.jpg

After some bending, all parts were made:
0157 33 Parts.jpg
A: the hull profile
B: the deck beam
C: the knee
D: the hull retaining frame up to and including the bilge rounding
E: the floor profile of the retaining frame
F: the wrang (deep floor plate?) between the hull profile and the floor retaining frame part
G: U-profile for on the retaining frame
H: U-profile for against the deck beam
I: knee where the longitudinal L-profile will later be placed over the center of the deck
J: cargo hold strut

I first glued the wrang in the bottom corner of the hull profile and on top of that the floor part of the retaining frame:
0158 33 Keer.jpg
I then secured this part with tape to a template that I made with the print of the frame. (Photo left) To ensure the shape.
I glued the other part of the retaining frame there. (Photo right)

Now I could provide the holes for the rivets in this part, which goes into the open starboard side:
0159 Drill.jpg
I couldn't do that before because then the profile would buckle at the holes when bending. (Next time focus on the right spot ;)

Then all parts combined:
0160 33 Compleet.jpg
Place the parts on the print at each step to always check the shape and roundness.
I can only install the struts later when the deck longitudinal profile and the keelson with corner profile are installed.

The whole with a view of the underside with retaining frame and U-profile:
0161 33 Keer.jpg
And vice versa with the U-profile along the deck beam:
0162 33 Keer.jpg
Regards, Peter
 
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Peter Voogt said:
Then it is now frame 33's turn. The point / rear of the kossing rests on the deck beam of this frame.

Here too I had to think one step ahead. Frame 33 is part of the cargo hold for the herring barrels. A transverse bulkhead is placed on the frames every second frames. It makes it easy that it is always the frames with an odd number. The distance between these odd frames is derived from the height of the barrels. The barrels are stacked on their sides between the bulkheads:
View attachment 416752
The barrels then rest against the frame placed between the two 'odd' frames. This has a retaining frame up to the deck and then also serves as a weighing. The drawing does show some weighing planks. I'll see later how that looks in the model.
Each room has its own hatch on the deck, which is also tailored to the size of the barrels.

I mentioned earlier that every frame with a deck beam has a retaining frame up to the height of the bilge. A U-profile is placed on the retaining frame in which the transverse bulkhead is placed. A U-profile has also been installed along the deck beam. The planks that form the bulkhead are then slid into those U-profiles.

But a photo makes more clear than a piece of text. I took photos of different steps of making the frame and shows all the parts.

Before bending the curve, I first warm the strip a bit. I first did that on the side of a kettle. But I still have an old-fashioned halogen lamp hanging above my work table. It also provides a lot of warmth. I now move the strip along that and start bending:
View attachment 416753
I use the print of the frame and bend along the lines. Here the formation of the retaining frame. I first bend the strip a little beyond the curve and then feed it back to the stripe of the print.

The same with the deck beam:
View attachment 416754

After some bending, all parts were made:
View attachment 416755
A: the hull profile
B: the deck beam
C: the knee
D: the hull retaining frame up to and including the bilge rounding
E: the floor profile of the retaining frame
F: the wrang (deep floor plate?) between the hull profile and the floor retaining frame part
G: U-profile for on the retaining frame
H: U-profile for against the deck beam
I: knee where the longitudinal L-profile will later be placed over the center of the deck
J: cargo hold strut

I first glued the wrang in the bottom corner of the hull profile and on top of that the floor part of the retaining frame:
View attachment 416756
I then secured this part with tape to a template that I made with the print of the frame. (Photo left) To ensure the shape.
I glued the other part of the retaining frame there. (Photo right)

Now I could provide the holes for the rivets in this part, which goes into the open starboard side:
View attachment 416757
I couldn't do that before because then the profile would buckle at the holes when bending. (Next time focus on the right spot ;)

Then all parts combined:
View attachment 416758
Place the parts on the print at each step to always check the shape and roundness.
I can only install the struts later when the deck longitudinal profile and the keelson with corner profile are installed.

The whole with a view of the underside with retaining frame and U-profile:
View attachment 416759
And vice versa with the U-profile along the deck beam:
View attachment 416760
Regards, Peter
Click to expand...
Great work, Peter, astonishing holes for the rivets.

I bought for a small summ from €9,50 an old set of compasses for scratch work and the tipp is able to set a precise mark for the drill - I use wood drills for the job in Evergreen - in very regular distances:
Polish_20231205_113234799.jpg
And can close the compasses for very small distances - hope this does helps...
 
Iterum said:
Great work, Peter, astonishing holes for the rivets.

I bought for a small summ from €9,50 an old set of compasses for scratch work and the tipp is able to set a precise mark for the drill - I use wood drills for the job in Evergreen - in very regular distances:
Click to expand...
Thanks for thinking with me, Chris.
I still have my old-fashion compass-box:
1704199010570.png
And the adjustable needle-point to use in both compasses.
But then I have to make a lot of marks. I have already adjusted my working method.
I am getting better and better at applying and fixing the strips with rivets-dots. Now I apply them first and then I can drill the holes exactly between the nails.
0163 Drill.jpg
Luckily I have to do this only on the outside profiles in halve of the frames for the open starboard side.
Regards, Peter
 
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After the necessary hours of tinkering, the frames 38 and 33 as well as the mast tube + kossing are ready:
0164 Parts.jpg
With quite a few rivets, especially on the mast tube + kossing.

With the new challenge of making all this shareable.
First placed both frames:
0165 33+38.jpg
At the level of the bilge, a rod was installed on both sides to give the frames some stability halfway. Corner profiles will be added later in the hold.

Then prepared both supports with which the mast tube is attached to the watertight bulkhead 39:
0166 Split.jpg
The supports are divided diagonally. At bulkhead 39 they come to the 2 equal halves, the tube itself has a loose side on the starboard side.

After two dry-fit test installations, I took the next step and glued the mast tube to the bulkhead 39 and with the foot on the flat part of the frame 38:
0167 Instal.jpg
The rear of the kossing still rests loosely on both half frames 33.

Here's a little more visible from above:
0168 Instal.jpg
It is good to see that the mast tube+kossing is mounted 1,5 dgr obliquely. The tube itself is also slightly slanted backwards.

After gluing the point of the kossing on the 2 parts of frame 33, It's the moment of truth:
0169 Split.jpg
The two parts can be slid apart. And of course put it back together again. :)

Seen from the other side:
0170 Split.jpg
In the lower point of the kossing you can see the axle on which the mast will later fit and which can hinge backwards. I also had to provide both inner sides with rivets, because that is visible.

And not unimportant:
0171 Sink.jpg
The mast tube+kossing that protrudes over the center, fits into the recess I made in the base plate. Can I continue to align the half frames on the drawings.

Phoe......... that's another piece of theory that works in practice. A relief again.
Regards, Peter
 
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