Thanks, Peter
Regards, Peter
BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
- Start date
- Watchers 49
Regards, Peter
Very delicate work Peter. Love it.
Thanks, Maarten. With wooden constructions you can sometimes absorb some tension with some clamps. Here it should sit in place virtually tension-free.
Regards, Peter
Just watching what you are doing is giving ME tension...
Thanks, Stephan.Precise and adequate like always.
Regards, Peter
Another experiment.
If I want to show the model with both parts touching each other, I want to use as few clamps as possible.
There are a few hatches on the deck that are placed in the middle. This also applies to the hatch that gives access to the forepeak:
That is an iron hatch with 4 swivel closures.
When making the first 4 frames, I had already made recesses for the frame of the hatch. There was already something in the back of my mind......
A frame made for the hatch:
1: Cut the frame in half lengthwise and fit it into the recess. The two hull parts are placed slightly apart.
2: The two parts against each other and closed with a clamp.
3: Placed the hatch on the frame.
4: Without a clamp, the parts stay nice and tight in place.
Add some nails to the 4 brackets and 2 handles and then it is ready for a layer of paint.
Regards, Peter
If I want to show the model with both parts touching each other, I want to use as few clamps as possible.
There are a few hatches on the deck that are placed in the middle. This also applies to the hatch that gives access to the forepeak:
That is an iron hatch with 4 swivel closures.
When making the first 4 frames, I had already made recesses for the frame of the hatch. There was already something in the back of my mind......
A frame made for the hatch:
1: Cut the frame in half lengthwise and fit it into the recess. The two hull parts are placed slightly apart.
2: The two parts against each other and closed with a clamp.
3: Placed the hatch on the frame.
4: Without a clamp, the parts stay nice and tight in place.
Add some nails to the 4 brackets and 2 handles and then it is ready for a layer of paint.
Regards, Peter
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Peter. You continue to amaze.
Thanks, Peter. I do it sometimes also myself …….Peter. You continue to amaze.
Regards, Peter
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2018
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Checked in Peter,
This will be a great project, with many challenges that have been entrusted to you.
Everything is going on a low setting here, due to Yvon's health.
Greetings
Henk .
This will be a great project, with many challenges that have been entrusted to you.
Everything is going on a low setting here, due to Yvon's health.
Greetings
Henk .
Thanks for the trust, Henk. It’s indeed a great challenge.
All the best for Yvon.
Regards, Peter
My intention was to now build the 2nd compartment: the forecastle between bulkheads 51 and 39.
After studying the old drawings, I came to the conclusion that I would be getting myself into trouble.
30 cm behind bulkhead 39 is the mast tube that is also connected to bulkhead 39. And the 'kossing' is also located on the mast tube. This is a triangular box in which the mast approximately 45 dgr can be tilted backwards.
(Source: Scheepvaartmuseum Restoration Book, page 27, photo from the Vlaardingen Visserijmuseum collection)
This was done when the ship was 'aan de vleet'. The foremast then picked up less wind, making the ship more stable with only the mizzen sail behind the fishing nets and not pulling on it too hard.
The mast is tilted at an angle of 2 degrees, so that the mast tilts just along the mizzen mast. The mast is therefore not on the keel beam but hinges on a pin at the bottom of the cossing, in the tube.
The tube and kossing are in the middle of the deck. Cutting this in half, just like the hatch on the forepeak, causes even more problems. What do I do with the mast?
The mast tube and kossing will therefore be located in the port side, which will be fully equipped. This means that it will partly protrude beyond the center line. In order to be able to tilt my construction jigs to align the half frames on the flat base plate, I have to make a hole in the base plate, where the mast tube and kossing have fallen. Then I need to know their correct position and how best to cut the bulkhead 39.
So first build that 39 and that tube with kossing. Then I can hold it in any position on my work table for alignment.
The advantage is that after installation, the two will also provide more strength in the longitudinal direction.
The bow section with frames 51 to 54 is now only attached to the keel and under the stringers. With the small floor. That gives some unwanted flexibility in the longitudinal direction.
I added part of the old construction drawing in Photoshop into the drawing of the line plan:
A: the mast tube.
B: the 'Kossing'.
At the bottom are the numbers of the frames that are important.
In both drawings I have to keep a close eye on the fact that the deck line on the line plan is the outside of the deck and that on the construction drawing the deck line in the middle of the deck is also decisive.
I have inserted a cutout of the top view at the top left.
It shows that the mast and the front of the hole of the kossing are drawn slightly in the shape of a parallelogram. The front and rear of the mast and cossing run parallel to the deck beams. The sloping sides then left and right.
If the mast were to tilt backwards, the sloping sides would tilt and rotate up and down. That's going to be a problem. Or the mast tube must be wider than the mast base. But then the mast tube loses its effectiveness. It can be seen on the Balder itself and in the restoration specifications that the mast base is square.
Also with a rectangular hood as a cover over the opening of the kossing. This point clearly deviated from the specifications drawing.
The old specifications state:
"The mast tube and cossing are composed of sheet material and angle irons. The rear is open. It took some searching and puzzling on the drawings to see what the construction was like.
But this photo also helped:
(Source: Maritime Museum Restoration Book, page 68)
A: Kossing.
B: open side of the mast tube.
C: Knees on the frames with deck beams with retaining frames up to the bilge.
D: The frames without deck beam with retaining frames up to the deck.
E: The keelson
F: Sticks placed on the sawn keelson to support the deck.
Made 2 prints and glued them to the right place on the base plate:
Then I can use the tilted construction template B to determine the correct position on the base plate A.
Started making watertight bulkhead 39 and the mast tube with kossing:
Easy to handle, I was now able to determine 3 important positions correctly:
A: the foot that rests on a plate that comes between the horizontal profiles of the retaining frames 37 and 39.
B: the plates that form the connection between the profile pieces on 39.
C: the profile that will later rest on the deck beam pieces of frames 33, 35 and 37. So I am going to position those deck beams under that profile.
In order to provide longitudinal strength in the open starboard part, the side plate was left loose:
A: the port side.
B: the starboard plate.
With the axle on the inside on which the mast base can later be tilted:
The dry-fit to see if everything is correct:
and what it looks like in position:
Now make a hole in the base plate for further alignment and a piece of plate where the angle is set to 88 degrees. To align the kossing at the 2 degrees.
Regards, Peter
After studying the old drawings, I came to the conclusion that I would be getting myself into trouble.
30 cm behind bulkhead 39 is the mast tube that is also connected to bulkhead 39. And the 'kossing' is also located on the mast tube. This is a triangular box in which the mast approximately 45 dgr can be tilted backwards.
(Source: Scheepvaartmuseum Restoration Book, page 27, photo from the Vlaardingen Visserijmuseum collection)
This was done when the ship was 'aan de vleet'. The foremast then picked up less wind, making the ship more stable with only the mizzen sail behind the fishing nets and not pulling on it too hard.
The mast is tilted at an angle of 2 degrees, so that the mast tilts just along the mizzen mast. The mast is therefore not on the keel beam but hinges on a pin at the bottom of the cossing, in the tube.
The tube and kossing are in the middle of the deck. Cutting this in half, just like the hatch on the forepeak, causes even more problems. What do I do with the mast?
The mast tube and kossing will therefore be located in the port side, which will be fully equipped. This means that it will partly protrude beyond the center line. In order to be able to tilt my construction jigs to align the half frames on the flat base plate, I have to make a hole in the base plate, where the mast tube and kossing have fallen. Then I need to know their correct position and how best to cut the bulkhead 39.
So first build that 39 and that tube with kossing. Then I can hold it in any position on my work table for alignment.
The advantage is that after installation, the two will also provide more strength in the longitudinal direction.
The bow section with frames 51 to 54 is now only attached to the keel and under the stringers. With the small floor. That gives some unwanted flexibility in the longitudinal direction.
I added part of the old construction drawing in Photoshop into the drawing of the line plan:
A: the mast tube.
B: the 'Kossing'.
At the bottom are the numbers of the frames that are important.
In both drawings I have to keep a close eye on the fact that the deck line on the line plan is the outside of the deck and that on the construction drawing the deck line in the middle of the deck is also decisive.
I have inserted a cutout of the top view at the top left.
It shows that the mast and the front of the hole of the kossing are drawn slightly in the shape of a parallelogram. The front and rear of the mast and cossing run parallel to the deck beams. The sloping sides then left and right.
If the mast were to tilt backwards, the sloping sides would tilt and rotate up and down. That's going to be a problem. Or the mast tube must be wider than the mast base. But then the mast tube loses its effectiveness. It can be seen on the Balder itself and in the restoration specifications that the mast base is square.
Also with a rectangular hood as a cover over the opening of the kossing. This point clearly deviated from the specifications drawing.
The old specifications state:
"The mast tube and cossing are composed of sheet material and angle irons. The rear is open. It took some searching and puzzling on the drawings to see what the construction was like.
But this photo also helped:
(Source: Maritime Museum Restoration Book, page 68)
A: Kossing.
B: open side of the mast tube.
C: Knees on the frames with deck beams with retaining frames up to the bilge.
D: The frames without deck beam with retaining frames up to the deck.
E: The keelson
F: Sticks placed on the sawn keelson to support the deck.
Made 2 prints and glued them to the right place on the base plate:
Then I can use the tilted construction template B to determine the correct position on the base plate A.
Started making watertight bulkhead 39 and the mast tube with kossing:
Easy to handle, I was now able to determine 3 important positions correctly:
A: the foot that rests on a plate that comes between the horizontal profiles of the retaining frames 37 and 39.
B: the plates that form the connection between the profile pieces on 39.
C: the profile that will later rest on the deck beam pieces of frames 33, 35 and 37. So I am going to position those deck beams under that profile.
In order to provide longitudinal strength in the open starboard part, the side plate was left loose:
A: the port side.
B: the starboard plate.
With the axle on the inside on which the mast base can later be tilted:
The dry-fit to see if everything is correct:
and what it looks like in position:
Now make a hole in the base plate for further alignment and a piece of plate where the angle is set to 88 degrees. To align the kossing at the 2 degrees.
Regards, Peter
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Hi Peter,
How are you going to split this? With your ingenuity I expect you split the complete mast assembly
Not an easy task.
How are you going to split this? With your ingenuity I expect you split the complete mast assembly
Not an easy task.
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Sterling job on this part of the build.
When looking to the orientation of the kossing and mast box in the top view (not being symmetrical around the centerline) means that the hinge of the main mast has to make the same angle the kossing makes. That way the main mast clears the mizzen mast. Does that make any sense at all?
When looking to the orientation of the kossing and mast box in the top view (not being symmetrical around the centerline) means that the hinge of the main mast has to make the same angle the kossing makes. That way the main mast clears the mizzen mast. Does that make any sense at all?
A split mast would be special, but the mast, mast tube and kossing comes in the port part of the hull. Except the starboard side plate of the tube and kossing.Hi Peter,
How are you going to split this? With your ingenuity I expect you split the complete mast assembly
Not an easy task.
But I can better show the results. The theoretical treatment of my imagination remains difficult to put into words.
Regards, Peter
Correct, Johan. If the mast wants to hinge in the space and length direction of the kossing, the pin must be at an equal angle to that space.
Therefore, the parallelogram shape of the mast base is incorrect and the pin cannot be parallel to the front and rear of that parallelogram as well as the deck beams. It is therefore perpendicular to the side wall of the tube and kossing.
Regards, Peter
While finishing bulkhead 39 and the mast tube/kossing, I discovered that I had made a calculation error. The tube was too narrow. The first major re-do.
There are a lot of rivets on these 2 parts. Been working on that for a while too:
As mentioned earlier: The tube with kossing comes in the port half.
The closing plate for this in the starboard half.
The 2 half parts of the watertight bulkhead 39 aligned in both construction halves:
Both fixed on the keel and with the stringer plates on the outside of the deck.
Secured lengthwise to bulkhead 51 with 2 temporary braces:
The 2 halves of bulkhead 39 are now fixed in 3 directions.
With yet another adjustment to the construction plan.
To place the tube and kossing correctly, the frames 38 to 33 must be placed. Also some pictures later to explain it without a lot of text.
Regards, Peter
There are a lot of rivets on these 2 parts. Been working on that for a while too:
As mentioned earlier: The tube with kossing comes in the port half.
The closing plate for this in the starboard half.
The 2 half parts of the watertight bulkhead 39 aligned in both construction halves:
Both fixed on the keel and with the stringer plates on the outside of the deck.
Secured lengthwise to bulkhead 51 with 2 temporary braces:
The 2 halves of bulkhead 39 are now fixed in 3 directions.
With yet another adjustment to the construction plan.
To place the tube and kossing correctly, the frames 38 to 33 must be placed. Also some pictures later to explain it without a lot of text.
Regards, Peter
Last edited:
WOW! This is insanely WOW, mon ami!
Thank you for this new complimentary form of expression, Jim. Hopefully in the form of 'Pleasantly Disturbed'?
For the time being I will keep it on 'challenging', even though I have to keep changing plans. But that's the nice thing about thinking a few steps ahead and not rushing to see results by installing a few new frames.
Regard, Peter