Thanks for the compliments, Christian.
Haha …. That’s more the problem for me when I am working on the 1:1 version ….
Regards, Peter
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BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
- Start date
- Watchers 70
Regards, Peter
Continued with the mizzen sail made of Japanese paper:
I glued the hems with diluted Lineco PVA. Next, I glued the 0.45 mm luff around the sail with undiluted Lineco. With the Bluenose sails, I had glued the luff on the inside into the outer edge of the hem, but now on the outside so that the luff is clearly visible. At the same time, I placed the eyelets in the 4 corners.
I applied small reinforcing patches to the 4 corners and on either side of the reefing panels.
To make further work easier, I stretched the sail between the 4 legs of a chair using elastic thread. Thanks to my Admiral for raiding her sewing box.
I pricked small holes in the leading edge and attached the 10 lines around the luff, with which the sail is tied to the 10 hoops on the mizzen mast. In the aft hem, at the end of the 2 reefing panels, are the two eyelets in which the double 0.25 mm reefing lines are secured.
On both reefing panels, I punched a small hole at each seam of the sailcloth panels and secured the buntlines in them.
I also punched small holes in the top hem to be able to attach the sail to the gaff later.
With this thicker Japanese paper, I didn't have to work as carefully as with the thinner one on the Bluenose. Quite sturdy paper.
Next, I sprayed the sail on both sides with diluted and slightly colored Lineco PVA using the AirBrush.
That now gives the sail a slightly weathered appearance. And the 'glue spots' are less noticeable.
The next step will be removing the rigging from the mizzen mast and attaching the sail. Just like with the Bluenose, I will do this partly on my workbench and with the mast in the small vise on my workbench.
There is still a chance that I will make a small sail from the Navarra fabric as well. But the question remains whether the stitching can be reproduced on the sewing machine to the desired scale.
Regards, Peter
I glued the hems with diluted Lineco PVA. Next, I glued the 0.45 mm luff around the sail with undiluted Lineco. With the Bluenose sails, I had glued the luff on the inside into the outer edge of the hem, but now on the outside so that the luff is clearly visible. At the same time, I placed the eyelets in the 4 corners.
I applied small reinforcing patches to the 4 corners and on either side of the reefing panels.
To make further work easier, I stretched the sail between the 4 legs of a chair using elastic thread. Thanks to my Admiral for raiding her sewing box.
I pricked small holes in the leading edge and attached the 10 lines around the luff, with which the sail is tied to the 10 hoops on the mizzen mast. In the aft hem, at the end of the 2 reefing panels, are the two eyelets in which the double 0.25 mm reefing lines are secured.
On both reefing panels, I punched a small hole at each seam of the sailcloth panels and secured the buntlines in them.
I also punched small holes in the top hem to be able to attach the sail to the gaff later.
With this thicker Japanese paper, I didn't have to work as carefully as with the thinner one on the Bluenose. Quite sturdy paper.
Next, I sprayed the sail on both sides with diluted and slightly colored Lineco PVA using the AirBrush.
That now gives the sail a slightly weathered appearance. And the 'glue spots' are less noticeable.
The next step will be removing the rigging from the mizzen mast and attaching the sail. Just like with the Bluenose, I will do this partly on my workbench and with the mast in the small vise on my workbench.
There is still a chance that I will make a small sail from the Navarra fabric as well. But the question remains whether the stitching can be reproduced on the sewing machine to the desired scale.
Regards, Peter
Last edited:
Thanks, Stephan.
I’ve had a moment to let the result sink in and I think it turned out just a little too dark. Unfortunately, 'just wash it' isn't an option. Let's see how it looks on the model.
Dyeing the Navarra will be easier. With 2 options: drawing the stitching lines or using the sewing machine.
Regards, Peter
So tiny, so thin, so Brilliant- only Peter.
Thanks, Grant and Shota.
This moment I am dipping 2 pieces of Navarra into some thee and coffee. To get the wanted ‘off-white’ color.
Regards, Peter
Yesterday, May 29, we sailed the Balder from Vlaardingen to Dordrecht. She is moored there for the 'Dordt in Stoom' weekend.
It was quite a special voyage on the 'Oude Maas'. It goes straight through the busy Botlek industrial area with all its highways and railways. These important bridges were opened especially for us:
Botlek Bridge, both highway and railway
We maintain a safe margin of 24 meters to be able to pass:
Spijkenisse Bridge
Dordrecht, both highway and railway bridge
We are moored at the Oude Walevest:
Between the pontoon and the Bernisse, an old minesweeper. (Unfortunately I am not on board of the Balder during de weekend.)
On Monday morning we will sail back to Vlaardingen.
We were not 'under sail'. In about a week and a half, we will be unpacking and hoisting all sails in the harbor again. Weather permitting. Then we can immediately practice some procedures and hopefully capture some nice pictures for you.
In the meantime, I have started working on the 2nd version of the mizzen sail:
Now with the 'Navarra Fine Lawn' fabric. First 2 color tests: with tea and coffee.
The coffee comes pretty close to the current Balder sails.
With this as the result:
Followed Ab Hoving's @Ab Hoving recommended method:
-drawn stitching;
-glued hems;
-glued leech all around.
I am going to put this on my Balder.
Regards, Peter
It was quite a special voyage on the 'Oude Maas'. It goes straight through the busy Botlek industrial area with all its highways and railways. These important bridges were opened especially for us:
Botlek Bridge, both highway and railway
We maintain a safe margin of 24 meters to be able to pass:
Spijkenisse Bridge
Dordrecht, both highway and railway bridge
We are moored at the Oude Walevest:
Between the pontoon and the Bernisse, an old minesweeper. (Unfortunately I am not on board of the Balder during de weekend.)
On Monday morning we will sail back to Vlaardingen.
We were not 'under sail'. In about a week and a half, we will be unpacking and hoisting all sails in the harbor again. Weather permitting. Then we can immediately practice some procedures and hopefully capture some nice pictures for you.
In the meantime, I have started working on the 2nd version of the mizzen sail:
Now with the 'Navarra Fine Lawn' fabric. First 2 color tests: with tea and coffee.
The coffee comes pretty close to the current Balder sails.
With this as the result:
Followed Ab Hoving's @Ab Hoving recommended method:
-drawn stitching;
-glued hems;
-glued leech all around.
I am going to put this on my Balder.
Regards, Peter
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2021
- Messages
- 315
- Points
- 238
Looks like a very nice journey for the Balder!
I like the sail and choice of material, I did not find any equivalent material when I was rigging my Bluenose, this looks much finer and I will keep it in mind for future builds. I have a set of sails for the Cutty Sark from HisModel which are made from very fine cotton, but yours is a lighter weight material (I think?). I have to think about staining my sails but I don't have any spare material to test, so it will be try once, cry once if I get it wrong! Was that single or double espresso?
Dom
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 6,390
- Points
- 738
Dear Peter
it looks a very nice journey
I like the sail and choice of material, it came beautiful
Thanks, Dom. I first wet the fabric and then colored it dip by dip. I let it dry briefly each time to check the color. After the third one, I was satisfied.
I still have to do some folding test. But what I have seen from the other user it will be no problem.
Just normal coffee.
All that modern stuff like Latte Macchiato and oat milk .... yak 
.Regards, Peter
Thanks, Shota. Will see how the rigging goes.
Regards, Peter
Regards, Peter
The first step in rigging the mizzenmast was preparing the divisible rigging on the starboard side.
Executing 'the Theory' I had devised:
1: made the support with the magnets on the inside/underside of the crossbar. (The insert is from later .....)
2: detached the mast and laid the rigging over the vise.
3: made the cut between the two speaderbars with a new sharp razor blade.
4: separated both parts.
5: the magnets are doing their job.
With 'the Practice':
The mast in the port section with the temporary bracing again at the deadeyes. On the starboard side, the support was placed and the rigging was separated.
The parts a bit further apart:
The bottom part on the starboard side stays in place nicely.
The top piece hangs loose.
To wrap up 'the Practice' completely:
Both parts are practically closed again, the support has been removed and the magnets are doing their job.
I can put quite a bit of tension on the shrouds, so tensioning with the deadeyes shouldn't be a problem later.
Another problem solved .....
Regards, Peter
Executing 'the Theory' I had devised:
1: made the support with the magnets on the inside/underside of the crossbar. (The insert is from later .....)
2: detached the mast and laid the rigging over the vise.
3: made the cut between the two speaderbars with a new sharp razor blade.
4: separated both parts.
5: the magnets are doing their job.
With 'the Practice':
The mast in the port section with the temporary bracing again at the deadeyes. On the starboard side, the support was placed and the rigging was separated.
The parts a bit further apart:
The bottom part on the starboard side stays in place nicely.
The top piece hangs loose.
To wrap up 'the Practice' completely:
Both parts are practically closed again, the support has been removed and the magnets are doing their job.
I can put quite a bit of tension on the shrouds, so tensioning with the deadeyes shouldn't be a problem later.
Another problem solved .....
Regards, Peter