Bluenose I - YuanQuin 1:72 - Loracs (in progress)

[AllanKP69]

Both your model and photography continue to be extremely well done.
Allan

 

[Loracs]

thank you allanKP69, I like making a built log almost as much as building ship! ;_)

 

[Peter Voogt]

@Peter Voogt, greeting. I have a quick question: what width planks are you using for the bottom ceiling?

I figured that the lower and upper decks are with planks of 3mm width x 1 mm thick (simply looking at what is provided in the kit). Is the ceiling planks 4mm x 1mm like the outside (supplied by the kit) or the same than the decks?

Hi Loracs.
For the interior trim, I was primarily inspired by Jenson's "Saga," which you mentioned on your first page. Specifically, this drawing on page 42:

The dimensions for most of the planks and beams are listed there. The "Saga" was, of course, written for the BN-II, but was inspired by the original.
Then there are the drawings on pages 44 through 50 for further inspiration.
Next, I simply looked at my remaining wood stock and made my choices based on that. This is what we in the 'BN Group Build quickly began to call AL-FI: "Artistic License" and "Free Interpretation.".
Hopefully this will give you a satisfactory answer?
Regards, Peter

 

[Loracs]

@Peter Voogt, a thousand thanks... I was (am) a little confused because of the discrepancy between the dimension in the Saga and the one provided by the kit. I keep asking myself, am I missing something?

For example: the Saga mentioned outside planking at 6-inch average (2.1mm at 1:72) while the kit planks are average 4.2mm. OR deck plancking at 4.75-inch, which translate to 1.67mm at 1:72, while the kit deck is 3mm.

I'm assuming if I keep the same overall proportion all is fine. I'm ok to take some liberty here, I would rather prefer working with larger boards.

 

[Peter Voogt]

@Peter Voogt, a thousand thanks... I was (am) a little confused because of the discrepancy between the dimension in the Saga and the one provided by the kit. I keep asking myself, am I missing something?

For example: the Saga mentioned outside planking at 6-inch average (2.1mm at 1:72) while the kit planks are average 4.2mm. OR deck plancking at 4.75-inch, which translate to 1.67mm at 1:72, while the kit deck is 3mm.

I'm assuming if I keep the same overall proportion all is fine. I'm ok to take some liberty here, I would rather prefer working with larger boards.

Working in this 1:72 scale requires compromises. It also depends on your skills, tools, and materials. The dimensions for all the parts ultimately fell within these 3 variables.
It's also a balancing act between ratio and reason. Often, it was a compromise between the kit's material and the 'Saga'. The Proxxon saw table became my friend.
Regards, Peter

 

[Loracs]

Bolts (larger frame): After a while you get into a rhythm and gain speed... luckily, because there are a lot of bolts. Breaking less drill bits too, hehe!

 

[Loracs]

Bolts on the frames: The work is now completed. However, I came across a small issue that I would like to resolve in the future. I drilled holes with a 0.6mm HSS steel bits all the way thru (5mm thick pearwood), using the same bit until it broke. What I noticed thought is that, at time, it is not quite vertical but slightly angle. This makes inserting the brass wire a pain. I'm wondering the reason.

1. Was it the Foredom alignment? I'm using a digital angle finder to align it on both axes carefully. Many holes are straight in a set... others are not though.
2. HSS bit just too flexible, thus creating a potential issue? especially when getting warmer after multiple drilling.
3. Is it because the bit is getting dull over time? thus has more likelihood to follow a path of less resistance in the wood.
4 Does drilling speed matter (Foredom is variable speed)? too slow or too fast? currently, it is very slightly burning the wood.

Would using carbide steel be better overall even if more likely to snap? Your experience all is much welcome.

 

[RDN1954]

Bolts on the frames: The work is now completed. However, I came across a small issue that I would like to resolve in the future. I drilled holes with a 0.6mm HSS steel bits all the way thru (5mm thick pearwood), using the same bit until it broke. What I noticed thought is that, at time, it is not quite vertical but slightly angle. This makes inserting the brass wire a pain. I'm wondering the reason.

1. Was it the Foredom alignment? I'm using a digital angle finder to align it on both axes carefully. Many holes are straight in a set... others are not though.
2. HSS bit just too flexible, thus creating a potential issue? especially when getting warmer after multiple drilling.
3. Is it because the bit is getting dull over time? thus has more likelihood to follow a path of less resistance in the wood.
4 Does drilling speed matter (Foredom is variable speed)? too slow or too fast? currently, it is very slightly burning the wood.

Would using carbide steel be better overall even if more likely to snap? Your experience all is much welcome.

0,6 Dia drills are a nightmare. They are (too) flexible and once dull, the issue worsens. If you observe burning marks, chances are you applied too much pressure on the drill. Drilling 0,6 mm holes I use a hand drill and try to avoid applying to much pressure. Having said that, breaking 0,6mm drills remains a frequent occurrence.

 

[Loracs]

Thank you for the tips... all the frames are now done but there more drilling to come. ;-)