Brigantine Phoenix, by Master Korabel [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter moreplovac
- Start date
- Watchers 47
Cannons are next..
In no apparent reason, started to work on ship cannons. Searching thru the kit, i noticed how well kit parts were protected with plastic foliage..
12 ship guns....
First i remove all burrs that were visible on guns...
Then guns were dipped into blackening solvent, left for 20 seconds, removed and wiped. After that i polished all guns...
Two polished guns and one not..
Light sanding was applied to all other gun parts to clean them out of laser cut burns or other damages..
The top one completed, the bottom is waiting its time.. It might need a bit more work but this will be done later.
The back wheels were removed from the sheets.
Setup to remove laser burns from wheels is very simple...
Two more to go...
On some cannons, muzzle opening required a bit of widening to make it a bit more realistic.
Happy modeling.
12 ship guns....
First i remove all burrs that were visible on guns...
Then guns were dipped into blackening solvent, left for 20 seconds, removed and wiped. After that i polished all guns...
Two polished guns and one not..
Light sanding was applied to all other gun parts to clean them out of laser cut burns or other damages..
The top one completed, the bottom is waiting its time.. It might need a bit more work but this will be done later.
The back wheels were removed from the sheets.
Setup to remove laser burns from wheels is very simple...
Two more to go...
On some cannons, muzzle opening required a bit of widening to make it a bit more realistic.
Happy modeling.
I am very impressed with your close up photography. What camera are you using and I am assuming you are using MACRO mode ?
Hi Donald.
Thank you.
Most of the time i am using Nikon D5600 with Sigma 17-50mm F2.8; image software is acdsee photo Ultimate 2020, and if i am lazy getting DSLR up, going with iPhone XR.
Trying not to use any presets even dough this DSLR has tons of them.. Usually use aperture-mode..
Regards,
Continue with work on cannons... started with making bunch of eyebolts that will be replacing those included in the kit.
The kit provided is above and home-made is at the bottom.
The home-made appears to be more realistic than eyebolts supplied in kit. So, 12 cannons x 2 eyebolts, 24 plus few extra to make.
The process is very simple. Cut the wire to appr 10mm in length, twist around 0.7mm drill bit and blacken them all.
The wire i was using:
The wire was lightly sanded to remove the protection and to easy blackening process.
Little eyebolts after blackening process.
Happy modeling.
The kit provided is above and home-made is at the bottom.
The home-made appears to be more realistic than eyebolts supplied in kit. So, 12 cannons x 2 eyebolts, 24 plus few extra to make.
The process is very simple. Cut the wire to appr 10mm in length, twist around 0.7mm drill bit and blacken them all.
The wire i was using:
The wire was lightly sanded to remove the protection and to easy blackening process.
Little eyebolts after blackening process.
Happy modeling.
Now i am working on rings that will be inserted into eyebolts. The wire was cleaned with sand paper to make blackening process successful.
First i make a spring using special tool, instead of a drill bit.
The smallest diameter is 1.5mm which is perfect for rings that will be used on these cannons. Total of 30 rings are made, 24 for cannons and few extras..
Next, i am making soldering flakes that will be used to solder rings. The small pieces of soldering wire were cut and flattened by squeezing them with pliers.
Sorry, not quite clear picture...
Then the flake is cut into 4 pieces; no need to use the whole flake for one ring, too much solder...
The ring is placed into position..
Small but very small amount of soldering paste was applied to the joint and flake quarter was put on.
Soldering was done with flame using pen torch tool. A bit of filing might be needed to clean the ring.
And 21 more to go...
Completed 20 yesterday, today will continue with rest of them and will finish up with blackening...
Time consuming work that will sharpen up your patience..
Happy modeling.
First i make a spring using special tool, instead of a drill bit.
The smallest diameter is 1.5mm which is perfect for rings that will be used on these cannons. Total of 30 rings are made, 24 for cannons and few extras..
Next, i am making soldering flakes that will be used to solder rings. The small pieces of soldering wire were cut and flattened by squeezing them with pliers.
Sorry, not quite clear picture...
Then the flake is cut into 4 pieces; no need to use the whole flake for one ring, too much solder...
The ring is placed into position..
Small but very small amount of soldering paste was applied to the joint and flake quarter was put on.
Soldering was done with flame using pen torch tool. A bit of filing might be needed to clean the ring.
And 21 more to go...
Completed 20 yesterday, today will continue with rest of them and will finish up with blackening...
Time consuming work that will sharpen up your patience..
Happy modeling.
The eyebolts and rings have been completed.
Now i started cleaning up laser burns...
Next, painting tiny "metal" plates was completed.
And all other cannon parts were cut..
Next will cleaning burns from other parts...
Happy modeling.
Now i started cleaning up laser burns...
Next, painting tiny "metal" plates was completed.
And all other cannon parts were cut..
Next will cleaning burns from other parts...
Happy modeling.
Many thanks for showing us the method of soldering rings! 
Many thanks for showing us the method of soldering rings!
No worries..
In no apparent reason, started to work on ship cannons. Searching thru the kit, i noticed how well kit parts were protected with plastic foliage..
12 ship guns....
First i remove all burrs that were visible on guns...
Then guns were dipped into blackening solvent, left for 20 seconds, removed and wiped. After that i polished all guns...
Two polished guns and one not..
Light sanding was applied to all other gun parts to clean them out of laser cut burns or other damages..
The top one completed, the bottom is waiting its time.. It might need a bit more work but this will be done later.
The back wheels were removed from the sheets.
Setup to remove laser burns from wheels is very simple...
Two more to go...
On some cannons, muzzle opening required a bit of widening to make it a bit more realistic.
Happy modeling.
After blackening the gun barrels I give them an additional treatment with graphite powder between my fingers. It results in a very realistic appearance.
Janos
Cannons are treated with a graphite powder between my fingers. This provides a bit more realistic look (thanks Janos)...
Cannon at the top is treated and at the bottom is not.
Then the wheel axle has to be rounded to accept the wheels..
The wheel mounted..
All parts has to be filled a bit to fit without effort; they are very breakable and tiny..
And assembled gun..
Now need to rotate a ring and eyebolt on right hand side so the rope can fit correctly..
Next i need to cover it with a small layer of danish oil, install nail simulation, etc.
Happy modeling.
Cannon at the top is treated and at the bottom is not.
Then the wheel axle has to be rounded to accept the wheels..
The wheel mounted..
All parts has to be filled a bit to fit without effort; they are very breakable and tiny..
And assembled gun..
Now need to rotate a ring and eyebolt on right hand side so the rope can fit correctly..
Next i need to cover it with a small layer of danish oil, install nail simulation, etc.
Happy modeling.
Last edited:
The guns and the carriage are looking very good - especially for this small scale of 1:72
For rounding up the ends of the square axles to accommodate the trucks I use a short piece of brass tube the inside diameter of which is equal to the requested outside diameter of the axle ending. I file a few 'teeth' into the first 1 mm of the tube. It does not have to be too precise, no worries about the proper cutting angles at all. Then the tube is fixed into the Proxxon drills chuck and here we go... Quick, easy and repetitive... you just have to take care of your fingers, keeping the axle while doing the rounding. For clean results I 'mark' the end position of the rounding with a knife blade before I start rounding the edges with the tube.
Janos
Janos
Janos, you are ahead of the game
I was thinking about how to make it a bit more precise and even. Will definitely try your suggestion..
Thank you.
Not much to report, continue working on cannons; glued all eyebolts and rings...
and after sanding, dry fitting and some other small adjustments, assembled two cannons..
They are tiny and took me appr 30min for each...
Next, will put a layer of oil on them and let them wait for mounting time.....
Happy modeling.
and after sanding, dry fitting and some other small adjustments, assembled two cannons..
They are tiny and took me appr 30min for each...
Next, will put a layer of oil on them and let them wait for mounting time.....
Happy modeling.
All cannons were assembled. Here are some stages of the assembly process...
First i worked on axles, shaping them to accept trucks.
Then all capsquare were simulated with a black paint.
The left side bracket was attached..
Guns were next and right brackets were attached..
All 12 of them waiting for an oil layer...
Happy modeling..
First i worked on axles, shaping them to accept trucks.
Then all capsquare were simulated with a black paint.
The left side bracket was attached..
Guns were next and right brackets were attached..
All 12 of them waiting for an oil layer...
Happy modeling..