Well the hull is starting to look like a hull.
Build Log Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack [COMPLETED BUILD]
That is a nice set of strakes laid down for a uniform and smooth hull. Nicely done. Rich (PT-2)
I’m thinking about putting a coat of Kilz on the hull. I can’t see where I need to fill some imperfections. What do you think? I don’t want to attach the toe rail until all the sanding is done.
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
No sure about Kilz, but a good light grey primer will help show areas that may need more filling or sanding.
For imperfections, one position would be that if you can see the line/gap that ideally should be filled in one of the various manners. Alternatively, if the lines in the photo are glue coloration and there is no gap along the trough, with a painted finish the color difference should be covered over. If you are going for an oil or stained finish with transparency then the lines will be apparent unless you want them to be. Just for consideration. Rich (PT-2)
The Kilz primer works good. Because of the uniform color of the primer my eyes didn’t interpret the variations as places needing attention. I added the Fairleads and rub rails. I finished sanding with 0000 steel wool and I’m ready to move on.
I am always wary of steel wool remaining in the wood fibers and later rusting. Dean62 though, as I recall, uses it as regular part of his finishing work and he is a master of that. It is at least essential to remove the steel fragments as carefully as possible IMHO. Rich
Well here’s where we stand today. The coaming and the cabin sides are in place. This was no easy task. Some slots in the bulkheads did not line up with the deck. The deck in front of the cabin needed to be more rounded. With a lot of HFF everything found its proper place.
I gave all the surfaces that will get painted a primer. (Kilz and mineral spirits 50/50) So far it worked good.
I have not seen any problem with the 0000 steel wool. I use a 1” paint brush to sweep off any residue frequently.
I’m going to start painting before adding any more hardware details.
I gave all the surfaces that will get painted a primer. (Kilz and mineral spirits 50/50) So far it worked good.
I have not seen any problem with the 0000 steel wool. I use a 1” paint brush to sweep off any residue frequently.
I’m going to start painting before adding any more hardware details.
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You will have a neat looking smack when done! Rich
Tell me about acrylic paint. I have not used it before model making. As I wrote above I primed the hull with 50-50 Kilz and mineral spirits. What I read online says Kilz is a good primer for acrylic paint. (Not water bases so as not to raise the grain.)
Two days after the first coat of acrylic on the hull, I was trying some blue painters tape to see if it would give me a straight line for painting the water line. When I removed the tape the acrylic came up with it.
It took me about an hour but using the blue tape I remove all the acrylic. I am going to clean the hull with mineral spirits to remove any residue from the blue tape and paint the hull with oil based enamel.
Maybe the 0000 steel wool polish the primer to much. I’m going to sand the hull with 300 paper before painting with the enamel.
Have any thoughts or suggestions?
As you build your smack I thought that if you are interested in such small sailing craft, of many types and locales, I recommend that you consider the following small book by a very recognized author. It is full of information, illustrations, photos, and lines drawings for many of those:
After some on-line searching I found a used copy in good condition for $14.55.
Rich (PT-2)
I bought the book Shipbuilding Simplified by Mastini that Namabiru suggested. I think it will be very helpful when I get to the sails and rigging. I will look into your suggestion. Thanks.
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Duncan, the trick with masking tape over acrylic paint is to stick the tape to your pants leg first and then apply it. That reduces the tackiness of the tape enough that it should solve the problem of brining the paint up, and I have never had an issue with lint on the tape using this technique.
Trying something. I cut the spine down to the reinforcing pieces between bulkhead frames #7 and #8. (?) Then I add a floor across and painted everything flat black. The purpose is to open the top hatch to the cabin a little bit in the final display. Also if you look into the window (portholes) you will not see anything but there will be some feeling of depth.
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First coat of finish paint for the hull. I see a few placed for filler. Still thinking about the colors for the deck and cabin.
Lost the moveable center board to runny glue some time ago. Glued it in place and decked over the slot.
Did some painting today before some places get to be difficult to get to. This is still the first coat. The paint is cut 60-40; paint to thinner. Starting to work on the mast and spars while the paint dries.
Finally got around to gluing down the cabin roof. I found that those small wooden clothespins with rubber bands can give the right pressure at the right points. Also added a little trim on edge of the livewell. A lot of final painting needs to be done yet. But now it’s time to get to the sails.
Located some cloth like bed sheets but very thin with a very very tight weave. Much tighter than the sail material supplied with the kit.
Cut some pieces larger than needed, boiled then with black tea bags, squeezed then out and dropped them into a diluted solution of white glue. Squeezed them out again and let them dry. They wanted to wrinkle up as they dried but a little encouragement from a hot iron and everything laid flat.
Going to try a sail making techniques I saw on U-tube. It was a Russian presentation. Looked real nice with no sewing.
Looks like you are well on the way to flying a proper set of rags in the wind. Good start. Rich