• LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
    **VIEW THREAD HERE**

BUILD LOG: SOLEIL ROYAL - TRYING TO ENHANCE KIT DeA [COMPLETED BUILD]

A

Alessandro63

Joined
Oct 12, 2022
Messages
167
Points
213

Hello, just started to build this amazing vessel in scale 1:70. DeA's kit is very well done, qualitiy materials and decorations, but it is a kit and this time I want to go beyond and build a model that when I'll look at it I can say I couldn't make it better than that.
Some pics of deks not yet finished: at the end they will look teak color; also a detail of the shape of some floor boards. Hoping you will like them, every suggest coming from experts is welcome.

1665937560131.jpg

1665937560103.jpg

1665937560124.jpg

1665937560112.jpg

1665937560134.jpg
 
Update.
Lo scafo è pronto per la posa del fasciame. Ho rinforzato l'opera viva con blocchetti di abete tagliati a misura e sagomati. Infatti farò un solo strato di fasciame perché ho previsto di verniciarla di bianco. Resterà a vista il fasciame dell'opera morta, salvo la parte superiore delle murate che va per forza dipinta.

311193596_1534323917031570_4942167208855255690_n.jpg

311444110_1534323970364898_5413871226496328112_n.jpg
 
Even the bulwarks are done. There are still some imperfections to be corrected before mounting the final layer of planking.
However careful you are, something to fix always emerges, and it is important to notice it in time for the success of the hull. The difficulty lies in the complex shape of these hulls, with both longitudinal and vertical curves. I think that If they designed a greater number of ordinates, in order to reduce the empty spaces between one and the other, everything would be simpler.

1666951263178.jpg
 
I would like a suggest: I’m also going to make the gunwales and relative scuppers. The scale is 1:72, the deck boards are 5mm wide, so I thought of making the stringers from a strip with a square section of 2.5mm.

For the scuppers I have provided 1mm holes in which I should insert sections of a metal tube.

First question:

Do you think the proportions are correct?

A friend pointed out to me that scuppers should have a square section, and things get very complicated here.
So I’m asking for suggestions for simple but correct solutions.
 
Alessandro63 said:
A friend pointed out to me that scuppers should have a square section, and things get very complicated here.
So I’m asking for suggestions for simple but correct solutions.
Click to expand...
Take a look at this posts - you will find rectangle but also a lot of round scuppers

Scuppers: England, about 1660-1670.

Hello ladies and gentlemen! I saw in one book the following waterway layout: There are similar schemes in other sources about this period (England, about 1660-1670): That is, the waterway is laid on top of the deck boards. So, what I want to ask is: where exactly and how exactly were...
shipsofscale.com

Swan Class – ¼” Scale - Stuglo [COMPLETED BUILD]

Hi Stullo I don't know Altalanta plans, could you post some pictures? Thanks
shipsofscale.com

Drilling clean holes.

It's time to drill the holes for the scuppers. I'm concerned with the planking splintering when the drill breaks through. Does anyone have a slick method of avoiding this?
shipsofscale.com

Design Of Scuppers On Spanish Galleons.

Hi. I have the 'Artesania Latina' model of the 16th century Spanish galleon 'San Francisco II'. The kit is nice but some details are missing. I'm getting to planking the hull now and want to add 'scuppers' (ports to drain the weather decks and the highest of the below decks). Thanks to the...
shipsofscale.com
 
Uwek said:
Take a look at this posts - you will find rectangle but also a lot of round scuppers

Scuppers: England, about 1660-1670.

Hello ladies and gentlemen! I saw in one book the following waterway layout: There are similar schemes in other sources about this period (England, about 1660-1670): That is, the waterway is laid on top of the deck boards. So, what I want to ask is: where exactly and how exactly were...
shipsofscale.com

Swan Class – ¼” Scale - Stuglo [COMPLETED BUILD]

Hi Stullo I don't know Altalanta plans, could you post some pictures? Thanks
shipsofscale.com

Drilling clean holes.

It's time to drill the holes for the scuppers. I'm concerned with the planking splintering when the drill breaks through. Does anyone have a slick method of avoiding this?
shipsofscale.com

Design Of Scuppers On Spanish Galleons.

Hi. I have the 'Artesania Latina' model of the 16th century Spanish galleon 'San Francisco II'. The kit is nice but some details are missing. I'm getting to planking the hull now and want to add 'scuppers' (ports to drain the weather decks and the highest of the below decks). Thanks to the...
shipsofscale.com
Click to expand...
Thank you, very useful!
 
aurélien wolff said:
Good luck, do you intend to correct the sculpture and onrament too?
Click to expand...
Thank you. No, they are made very well already and well finished. I just need to make an aging treatment.
Since we are on the subject, about ropes and blocks, the kit provides assorted ropes from 0.15 to 0.80 diameter and blocks are 4 and 5 mm.Being the scale 1:72, do you think they are correct?
My last recent built has been the Sovereign of the seas in 1:74 scale and ropes where from 0.50 to 1.3, blocks from 5 to 7 mm. and only after the built I realized they were out of scale.
 
I've never built sail ships before soo I can't tell on the rope, sorry. Would the difference really be that visible at 1/70 scale tho?
 
aurélien wolff said:
I've never built sail ships before soo I can't tell on the rope, sorry. Would the difference really be that visible at 1/70 scale tho?
Click to expand...
Probably not, but you also have to account for the fact that most kits have blocks which are overly large. I would replace all kit blocks with properly sized ones which also have correct shape. Replacing all the blocks does make a difference in improving the appearance of the model when it's finished.
 
Still about joints...
I made some study in the last days and asked for informations to several modelists that are supposed to know their stuff. The result is that basicly everyone tells his story that is different from the others. My conclusion is that the only truth is there is no truth, so I will proceed with my version of truth following the way that appears to be more logic.
The basic joint is on the heads, the same as for decks. For hulls there also are two types of scull joints, simple and double.
As these kinds of joints are more stable, the logic tells me they were the ones used for hulls. Therefore I will use the double one for girdles and the simple one for the rest of the plank.

incastro semplice.png

incastro doppio per cinte.PNG
 
Alessandro63 said:
Still about joints...
I made some study in the last days and asked for informations to several modelists that are supposed to know their stuff. The result is that basicly everyone tells his story that is different from the others. My conclusion is that the only truth is there is no truth, so I will proceed with my version of truth following the way that appears to be more logic.
The basic joint is on the heads, the same as for decks. For hulls there also are two types of scull joints, simple and double.
As these kinds of joints are more stable, the logic tells me they were the ones used for hulls. Therefore I will use the double one for girdles and the simple one for the rest of the plank.

View attachment 337514

View attachment 337515
Click to expand...
Hello Alexander, right everyone has his say.Your conclusion that you say that there is no truth, sorry have you consulted any text on the subject?

cd.jpg

cd1.jpg

cd2.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top