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Building a Cutter

I remember this conversation and common sense says the rigging cannot work. As much as I rely on RMG for information, they admittedly are not without errors or incomplete data in their explanations. They are absolutely a caring and gracious team and I for one love to reach out to them but most of them are not trained as naval architects so cannot always help as much as they would like to. Considering the amount of information that is there an occasional error or incomplete explanation is understandable. My granddaughter will be starting college this fall and library science and archival studies are her focus. I am already pushing her to move to Greenwich and get a job at RMG when she graduates, or maybe do an internship there to get an inside track. Now if I could only talk her into taking a minor in naval architecture........ :):)

Yes! I didn't intend any dig at RMG at all. They are the gold standard in the discipline and the problems with accuracy I cited are just the nature of the beast, even in the best of institutions. The phenomenon I described has always been endemic in the fields of history and art. Even amateur historians should exercise care because we never know who might find our work generations from now. We all have an obligation to the historical record. Without a provenance, if Melville's Moby Dick manuscript were to be discovered for the first time modernly in some dusty attic, would we recognize it as a novel or consider it historical fact? A couple of hundred years from now, will somebody be trying to confirm that Jack Aubrey and Horatio Hornblower were real people? How often do we hear of one of the Old Masters' paintings being discovered in the back corner of a museum's warehouse? Or worse, that the painting the museum paid seven figures for is actually a copy of the original that went missing. The problem is only increasing exponentially with AI coming online. AI simply spits back at us whatever generates the most activity in the cybersphere, so conspiracy theories, junk science, fake news, political propaganda, and outright lies quickly appear to have some "authoritative basis" simply because some AI platform said so.
 
As an ex small boat sailor I have at least one capsize to prove what happens when you lose control of the rudder while tacking. I well remember the infamous over/under tiller discussion on MSW with forum members claiming that old time sailors knew how to do things that we can’t do today. Apparently old time sailors had discovered different rules of physics!

Roger
 
Allan, as promised, I checked some of my resources and can confirm that the wooden ships' boats of the U.S.N. did have lifting rings. Bronze castings, "T"-shaped in section, were bolted to either end of the top of the keel (or keelson, as the case may have been) with the "leg" of the "T" pointing upward and the flat of it running fore and aft. A large bow shackle was permanently fastened with its pin running through a hole in the "T"-sectioned casting's upright leg.

The U.S.N., at least, did (and probably still does) have a specific drill for launching ship's boats using these lifting rings.
By all indications, this is also the same drill used by whaling ships. The danger of the boat "flipping" in mid-air while hanging from davit falls by these rings was never entirely eliminated. In fact, in most accounts of ship sinkings when crew and passengers must take to the lifeboats relate that some lifeboats, for one reason or another, capsized before they reached the water, spilling their passengers into the sea.

The U.S.N. boat launching drill is described in the fourteenth edition (1950) of the Bluejackets' Manual, which has most likely changed very little in the last 250 years in any navy:

When handled from davits, a ... whale boat is suspended at the bow and stern by separate falls. Usually, the block close to the boat has attached to it an automatic hook known as the "Raymond releasing hook."
When the boat is not in the water, the weight of the boat prevents the hook from tumbling off. When the boat is water-borne, the point of the hook tumbles and frees the boat.
Prior to hoisting, a lanyard made fast to the point of the hook is rove through the boat shackles and used to facilitate attachment of the hook to the shackles.

LAUNCHING THE LIFEBOAT --
... If they do not have a definite assignment to carry out, they seize the lifelines as a safety precaution and remain quiet. Boat lifelines are knotted lines secured to the span of the davits.
When all is ready, the gripes are tripped and cleared away. Frapping lines and traveling lizards running on jackstays are used to keep the boat from swinging.
Frapping lines are passed around the boat falls and handled from the deck. The traveling lizards are kept in hand in the boat after a turn has been taken around a thwart. The lizards must never be secured in the boat.
Boat crew men in the waist ... breast off the ship's side with boat hooks; ... The ends of the poles not against the ship must always be held above the gunale of the boat lest a sudden swing against the ship shove the boat hook ends into the boat and stave holes in its sides.
Member of the boat crew stand by the releasing gear, and one man stands by the sea-painter ready to slip it.
When all is in order, the man in charge commands, "Lower away together," and the men handling the falls on deck begin lowering the boat.
As the boat goes down, other men keep a strain on all frapping lines and lizards; and men in the waist of the boat steady it with boat hooks. Any slack on the sea-painter is taken in. The man in charge of the sea-painter pulls the toggle and holds the end in the boat by hand. Only one turn of the sea-painter is taken around the inboard side of the second thwart. Other men in the boat tend the falls to keep them clear and to keep the blocks from striking other members of the crew after the falls are let go. When a tumbler hook is used, these men grab the tumbler lanyard and are prepared to unhook the falls in case they do not unhook automatically. If the boat is not supplied with detaching apparatus, these same men release the falls by hand.
The boat must be lowered smartly, especially in rough weather. The falls must always be lowered together. ... When the boat is a short distance from the water, the boat officer or coxswain lets go the detaching apparatus or commands, "Let go." If the boat is not fitted with detaching apparatus, the boat officer or coxswain commands first, "Let go the after fall."; then, "Let go the forward fall," as soon as the boat is water-borne. The after fall is always let go first. Remember that the ship is moving ahead, if the forward fall is let go first, the pull will be on the after fall, swinging the boat around and perhaps capsizing it.
The moment when the boat is water-borne is the most dangerous, and expert boat handling is required. Lizards are cast off. all members of the boat crew ust remain quiet and carry out only specifically assigned duties. The coxswain gives the stern a sheer in with the rudder to get the bow out. The strain on the sea-painter sheers the boat clear of the side.

When the boat is clear of the side, the officer or coxswain commands, "Cast off the sea-painter." An axe or hatchet should be ready for use in case of a jam at this critical point.

As can be seen, launching a ship's boat from davits is something of a "controlled crash landing" and quite a hazardous undertaking which required trained seamanship.

Before davits were commonly seen and where they were not present, falls from the masts were used in the same fashion.

Anyway, thanks for presenting the occasion to take a deep dive into "lifting rings" and ship's boat launching.
 
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something of a "controlled crash landing"
I used to watch the deckies run lifeboat drills when I was working on board freighters and tankers because we actually launched the boats unlike the pseudo drills on cruise ships today. (that won't keep is from cruising as often as possible :)) Never flipped one but came close one time when we launched one in the open sea to pick up a half sunken boat/raft full of folks heading for Florida. The mess started when we were trying to raise the boat full of people. That is a whole other story ending with the Coast Guard picking them up from us and taking them back.
Allan
 
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The sketches below will give an idea on how I am building the forming set up for the frames. Pics of the building board with the formers and frame location holes later today. Keep in mind that the materials are stock sizes so a full shop is not needed, but the overall size may be a tiny bit off.
Allan
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Allan,
I like Warships boats. So far, I have built three; an early Eighteenth Century Royal Navy Longboat, A 1900 US Navy Standard 40 foot Steam Cutter, and a US Navy 26 Foot Motor Whaleboat c late1930’s. All built to a common scale of 1:32. If I live long enough, I plan a fourth in the series, a mid Nineteenth Century US Navy Launch.

So far, all have been made with hulls carved on the outside and hollowed out on the inside. For my launch, I might try your method. Question: what keeps the hull without internal structure from collapsing when removed from the formers?

Regards,

Roger
 
Hi Roger
Great question, but so far I never had a problem with that. The way the hull is built it is surprisingly strong. The full frames will be going on next and taking care not to get glue on the formers is critical in order to avoid hearing the dreadful CRACK when taking the planked hull off the formers. Next is the preassembled keel, dead wood, stem, and sternpost. After they are glued to the full frames the half frames and transom go on. More details to follow with pics. After the framing is done. plank the hull. Once the glue is dry clip the frames at the building board and remove the hull from the formers. The hull breadth MIGHT open a tiny bit, but if it does, when the thwarts go in on top of the risers, just squeeze/clamp the hull so the thwarts fit tight until the glue cures.
Allan
 
I'm watching TV while working on a launch that is built the exact same way. I'm making sure that my planks fit the frames and the form almost perfectly before gluing them. That will prevent stress and help the boat hold its shape when popped off of the form. Just as Allan said... if there is any deformation the thwarts will take care of things when installed.

Planking.jpg
 
I started making the frames. On the actual boat the moulded dimension of the floors was more than at the top of the frames, but as they will be covered with the footwaling planks I did not go to the trouble of making the frames as was done on the actual boats. For this scale I used a sheet of holly that is just under 1/32" thick. Strip basswood 1/32X1/32 (0.8mm) can be purchased and will be very close to scale. The actual size of the frames at the top of the futtocks for an 18 foot cutter would be smaller than 1/32" by about 0.003" or 0.09mm so not really noticeable by the human eye without magnifiers. Again, I am trying to make this so stock material very close to the actual size needed can be used. Basswood is easy to bend to shape, similar to the way holly works, and can be found on line. More on how to do this framing in upcoming posts. In this case I used a steel rule as an edge guide and scalpel to slice strips to make the pieces that will be used for frames. A bit of scraping or sanding is usually needed on one side, but if care is taken, it will be only a little work. If premade strips are purchased, this sanding should not be necessary.
Allan
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The full frames are now over the formers. The frames started out as straight pieces of holly and soaked in water for 30 minutes or more before being bent to shape. The notch at the bottom of the former is to make it easier to manipulate the end of the frame into the hole. It will also make it easier to cut the frame away from the base board when it is time to remove the boat from the former. In cool weather I will hit them with a hot air gun, but summer in SW Florida garages makes it a bit like an oven so the frames are dry and hold their shape within an hour.
Allan

Soaking the frames in plain water

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6 of 9 Full frames over formers and inserted into building board
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Have you ever tried to bend boxwood for the frames?
I have used Castello in the past but not boxwood. If I was going to cut out separate floors and futtocks I would definitely go with true boxwood. I have some nice boxwood in the shop thanks to another member at SoS and will give it try, if only to see how it works out Christian.
Allan
 
With the full frames in place, time to make the keel, deadwood, etc. I printed the profile on label paper then cut out the parts and stuck on small pieces of castello boxwood of the proper thickness, 0.1" (2.5mm is very close for anyone using sheet stock) All the pieces need a little filing/sanding, a little fiddly but nothing complicated. I am using chisels to reduce the thickness of the deadwood where needed at the stern, and the deadwood on the apron forward.
Allan
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