You're right i can add it.
Maybe i will, because like i said " it always looks great on the models"
CalderCraft HM Granado
- Thread starter Nietslim
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- caldercraft granado
Maybe i will, because like i said " it always looks great on the models"
I first cut out and painted the timberheads, kevels and the inner bulkwark cleats.
and then i only placed the timberheads and kevels.
Before I place the inner bulk wark cleats, the cannons will be placed.
This is a bit easier to secure the cannons because otherwise it is very difficult to reach the eyelets.
and then i only placed the timberheads and kevels.
Before I place the inner bulk wark cleats, the cannons will be placed.
This is a bit easier to secure the cannons because otherwise it is very difficult to reach the eyelets.
Caldercraft produce one of the best kits i have ever built. You are doing a great job so far. I am so glad that you found my video useful as that was their purpose.
Good morning. I have just spent some time catching up on your build. Looking very good. I agree with other guys here re the Caldercraft kits. They are very accurate as kits go, especially British ship. Cheers Grant
All cannon's are in place
First i made the gun tackle at them.
And i placed the inner bulk wark cleats.
After that i made the training tackle
This took all together a bit of time but it has a great result.
Now im working on the breeching rope.
But my captain wants to go on a short holiday.
I hope i can finish the breeching rope before we go so i can post a picture here, otherwise it will be later when im back.
First i made the gun tackle at them.
And i placed the inner bulk wark cleats.
After that i made the training tackle
This took all together a bit of time but it has a great result.
Now im working on the breeching rope.
But my captain wants to go on a short holiday.
I hope i can finish the breeching rope before we go so i can post a picture here, otherwise it will be later when im back.
Breeching rope now also done.
For the gun tackle and the training tackle i used 0.10mm natural thread. For the breeching rope i used 0.25mm natural thread like the description says.
The difference is minimal but it's just enough to see it.
For the gun tackle and the training tackle i used 0.10mm natural thread. For the breeching rope i used 0.25mm natural thread like the description says.
The difference is minimal but it's just enough to see it.
It's been a while since I've posted something.
Been on vacation but haven't been completely idle.
Because I find the stand that comes with the model terrible, so I ordered stuff to make a display myself.
Also i made some small decorations for the deck in the meantime.
As soon as I would have placed this, I probably could not turn the model over
For placing the display as example, and so I waited with everything until I had received my display stuff.
Now that I have everything I can continue building and this building blog.
First I added a chain to the rudder.
After this I started on my own display
I arranged a slice of a tree trunk and let it dry well.
This disc is about 15cm wide, 30cm long and 1cm thick.
After this I drilled the holes for the display legs (or whatever they are called) before I placed them
and I varnished the tree disk matte.
This looks better than the original display thats with the model.
Because I had already made the following items before I made the display, I will post pictures of this.
I do this in the order I placed everything on the deck
So you can see how i made it as well
The first thing I made and placed is the belfry and as second the windlass
Next i made and placed the jeer bitts and the main topsail sheet bitts
these are very fragile, especially the feets that had to be leveled on the deck
And as last i have made the elm tree pumps and place those 4 also on the deck.
Top view as far as I am now
Been on vacation but haven't been completely idle.
Because I find the stand that comes with the model terrible, so I ordered stuff to make a display myself.
Also i made some small decorations for the deck in the meantime.
As soon as I would have placed this, I probably could not turn the model over
For placing the display as example, and so I waited with everything until I had received my display stuff.
Now that I have everything I can continue building and this building blog.
First I added a chain to the rudder.
After this I started on my own display
I arranged a slice of a tree trunk and let it dry well.
This disc is about 15cm wide, 30cm long and 1cm thick.
After this I drilled the holes for the display legs (or whatever they are called) before I placed them
and I varnished the tree disk matte.
This looks better than the original display thats with the model.
Because I had already made the following items before I made the display, I will post pictures of this.
I do this in the order I placed everything on the deck
So you can see how i made it as well
The first thing I made and placed is the belfry and as second the windlass
Next i made and placed the jeer bitts and the main topsail sheet bitts
these are very fragile, especially the feets that had to be leveled on the deck
And as last i have made the elm tree pumps and place those 4 also on the deck.
Top view as far as I am now
Very good work on your Granado - and good progress
As next i started to build the quarterdeck and forecastle ladders.
First i cut the sides of the ladders from the 2mm walnut sheet and draw on one side of them lines for the treads.
Between the lines i kept 6,2mm space.
Now i can place 4 treads on each ladder. Next i carefully saw and sand those lines a little bit so i can slot the treads into the sides.
Then i took a walnut strip of 1x5mm and saw 16x 8mm pieces out of it to use as treads, i need 4 for each ladder.
After i assemble them all 4 i careful sand them and put them in the varnish.
First i cut the sides of the ladders from the 2mm walnut sheet and draw on one side of them lines for the treads.
Between the lines i kept 6,2mm space.
Now i can place 4 treads on each ladder. Next i carefully saw and sand those lines a little bit so i can slot the treads into the sides.
Then i took a walnut strip of 1x5mm and saw 16x 8mm pieces out of it to use as treads, i need 4 for each ladder.
After i assemble them all 4 i careful sand them and put them in the varnish.
The quarterdeck barricade is the next thing to make.
After cutting out the footrail and the breastrail i made 4 blocks of 3x3mm walnut strip with a length of 4mm.
I also grab the 4 pillars and lay it all in position.
Making sure the breastrail profiled face is down towards the deck.
When all parts lay in the good order i gleu it together
Then i dry fit it on the deck to see how much i need to sand away from the 2 blocks in the middle because the deck isn't flat but slightly curved.
After some sanding the quarterdeck barricade need to look like this.
When satisfied paint the barricade same as the rest dull black and varnish it.
After it's dried i glued it about 2mm from the edge on the deck.
After cutting out the footrail and the breastrail i made 4 blocks of 3x3mm walnut strip with a length of 4mm.
I also grab the 4 pillars and lay it all in position.
Making sure the breastrail profiled face is down towards the deck.
When all parts lay in the good order i gleu it together
Then i dry fit it on the deck to see how much i need to sand away from the 2 blocks in the middle because the deck isn't flat but slightly curved.
After some sanding the quarterdeck barricade need to look like this.
When satisfied paint the barricade same as the rest dull black and varnish it.
After it's dried i glued it about 2mm from the edge on the deck.
Good work on these deatils of the deck 
Good evening. I love the last pic. She looks so cool. Cheers Grant
Before i start making the quarterdeck rough tree rail i was thinking it won't be easy to put the quarter decoration on the back when the rough tree rail is in place.
So i decided to paint most of the decorations first. And then i can put on the quarter decoration before i start working on the quarterdeck tree rail.
This will take some time because they are very good detailed and it's also very small. Gladly i have a lamp with a magnifying glass.
Before i start painting i carefully remove the edges that don't belong there with a file.
It's very soft metal. ( i think it's tin ).
And try to clean it as good as i can.
Then i put on a tiny layer of primer. And now i let it dry a few hours before i put on a second layer.
After the second layer and a good time to dry i can put on color for color with time between them to dry properly.
So i decided to paint most of the decorations first. And then i can put on the quarter decoration before i start working on the quarterdeck tree rail.
This will take some time because they are very good detailed and it's also very small. Gladly i have a lamp with a magnifying glass.
Before i start painting i carefully remove the edges that don't belong there with a file.
It's very soft metal. ( i think it's tin ).
And try to clean it as good as i can.
Then i put on a tiny layer of primer. And now i let it dry a few hours before i put on a second layer.
After the second layer and a good time to dry i can put on color for color with time between them to dry properly.
After the 2nd layer of primer I first painted everything ocheryellow , well the parts that should be yellow of course
After this was dry, blue is the 2nd color to use.
The most logical color to use next is gold.
Now the decorations immediately begin to take on a clearer picture.
After gold I applied white and the skin tone.
Sometimes I had to make some adjustments here and there because I just applied the new color a little too far with the brush.
I also immediately apologize that I can't get some decorations sharply photographed up close
The last coloring I applied was some red and then black.
Because the decoration is very small but well detailed, a brush number 0 was just too thick.
That's why I cut off about 75% of the brush hairs from 1 brush.
In the 2nd picture of the brushes, the top brush is a normal 0 thickness
and the bottom brush is the trimmed brush that I actually used for just about everything
Now I let the paint dry for a day before applying 2 coats of matte varnish
After this was dry, blue is the 2nd color to use.
The most logical color to use next is gold.
Now the decorations immediately begin to take on a clearer picture.
After gold I applied white and the skin tone.
Sometimes I had to make some adjustments here and there because I just applied the new color a little too far with the brush.
I also immediately apologize that I can't get some decorations sharply photographed up close
The last coloring I applied was some red and then black.
Because the decoration is very small but well detailed, a brush number 0 was just too thick.
That's why I cut off about 75% of the brush hairs from 1 brush.
In the 2nd picture of the brushes, the top brush is a normal 0 thickness
and the bottom brush is the trimmed brush that I actually used for just about everything
Now I let the paint dry for a day before applying 2 coats of matte varnish
Everything is nicely dried and im satisfied with the results.
I first bend a piece strip from that will be on top on the end of the quarterdeck above the decorations.
And before i put it there i paint it black.
Next i placed the windows frames that i already had painted ocheryellow.
Then i placed the backside decoration and a profile strip below it.
I tried to bend it a little bit but that didn't work out. So i paint the parts of wood above the profile strip yellow.
I wasn't totally satisfied but when my admiral walked in with the kids i asked them if they something wrong.
All 3 didn't see anything and that's enough for me to make me satisfy too.
Sometimes you want to do it perfect and it can't always be so.
We the ones who builds or maybe all humans who make something see our mistakes, or when it's not 100% perfect a lot longer and faster.
It's even hard to be satisfied sometimes with those little mistakes.
But gladly we have people around us who love us and let us know it's okay when it's not 100% perfect.
I first bend a piece strip from that will be on top on the end of the quarterdeck above the decorations.
And before i put it there i paint it black.
Next i placed the windows frames that i already had painted ocheryellow.
Then i placed the backside decoration and a profile strip below it.
I tried to bend it a little bit but that didn't work out. So i paint the parts of wood above the profile strip yellow.
I wasn't totally satisfied but when my admiral walked in with the kids i asked them if they something wrong.
All 3 didn't see anything and that's enough for me to make me satisfy too.
Sometimes you want to do it perfect and it can't always be so.
We the ones who builds or maybe all humans who make something see our mistakes, or when it's not 100% perfect a lot longer and faster.
It's even hard to be satisfied sometimes with those little mistakes.
But gladly we have people around us who love us and let us know it's okay when it's not 100% perfect.
You are so right with these words
and at the end - I really do not know, if any modeler can be really 100% perfect.......
..... I am often happy to be not 100% perfect, otherwise we would not learn something new - and one important part of our hobby is learning soemthing new
Looking very good
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Good afternoon,perfection does not exist but vanity is in everyone's DNA.Frank
First I placed the matt black painted 1x4mm taffrail capping on top of the edge of the stern fascia.
After this I started cutting out 20 quarter deck timberheads and sanded them.
When I wanted to install this, it turned out that the location holes that had already been pre-made were too small.
But after some sanding and filing and regular fitting, they can still be installed nicely.
The brace sheave block also needs quite a bit of shaping before I can place it above the aft cabin light on both sides of the model.
After this was done, I placed the quarter deck rough rail on top and filed all the timberheads a bit so that the valley fits nicely and connects to the tree rail step that still needs to be placed.
Now paint the rough rail together with the quarterdeck tree rail step black at the bottom.
Now you can easily reach it, but once it is installed it is quite difficult.
This actually also applies to the timberheads, so they were also immediately painted matte black
After the paint dried I glued the rough tree rail and the tree rail step to the timberheads.
And now i can paint it matte black and i don't have to paint the bottom or the timberheads anymore. It's a lot easier this way.
After this I started cutting out 20 quarter deck timberheads and sanded them.
When I wanted to install this, it turned out that the location holes that had already been pre-made were too small.
But after some sanding and filing and regular fitting, they can still be installed nicely.
The brace sheave block also needs quite a bit of shaping before I can place it above the aft cabin light on both sides of the model.
After this was done, I placed the quarter deck rough rail on top and filed all the timberheads a bit so that the valley fits nicely and connects to the tree rail step that still needs to be placed.
Now paint the rough rail together with the quarterdeck tree rail step black at the bottom.
Now you can easily reach it, but once it is installed it is quite difficult.
This actually also applies to the timberheads, so they were also immediately painted matte black
After the paint dried I glued the rough tree rail and the tree rail step to the timberheads.
And now i can paint it matte black and i don't have to paint the bottom or the timberheads anymore. It's a lot easier this way.
After the quarterdeck rough rail is finished i placed before it on both sides the finger and thumb timberheads. You need to sand them a bit to fit in their location holes
And i painted them dull black like the rest.
Then i started on the forecastle fittings.
There are 20 holes but the ones against the foremast location are bigger. So you need there 2 bigger knightheads.
For the other 18 holes you need 18 forecaste timberheads.
Afters some sanding i place those gentle in their location holes and painted them also black.
I started with the timberheads, and when i placed one side completely i placed the knighthead before i went to the other side
And i painted them dull black like the rest.
Then i started on the forecastle fittings.
There are 20 holes but the ones against the foremast location are bigger. So you need there 2 bigger knightheads.
For the other 18 holes you need 18 forecaste timberheads.
Afters some sanding i place those gentle in their location holes and painted them also black.
I started with the timberheads, and when i placed one side completely i placed the knighthead before i went to the other side
Very good work - In some days I have to make the same work on my Granado 