overview Can you get the most out of your Proxxon MF70?

I'm going to try this too Jim. My only concern is that the spindel have a high speed (20.000+) and that gives a lot of powers on the axle, special when drilling. Becaus of the spun on the alle there is minimum contact between collet and axle.
But when only use for wood. No Metals and keep the speed below the 15.0000. It must work.
 
Steef66 said:
I'm going to try this too Jim. My only concern is that the spindel have a high speed (20.000+) and that gives a lot of powers on the axle, special when drilling. Becaus of the spun on the alle there is minimum contact between collet and axle.
But when only use for wood. No Metals and keep the speed below the 15.0000. It must work.
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I would never treat it as the solution, but it is an option and workaround to use 4~5.00mm endmills. ER11 collet system can accept 1.00mm - 7.00mm mills. However, as you mentioned above, this will put lots of pressure on the motor. I would never suggest to anyone using this convertor for steel. Maybe copper or brass (I will have to test), but for woodworking, it works great and have somewhat precise results.

If for any chance you would make permanent modifications to your Proxxon MF70, also if you are capable and have tools in your shop. Check this out. He has a number of videos about improvements for MF70. He is a Ukrainian guy but speaks English.

 
Jimsky said:
Oh...thank you, Phil. I am afraid, for this endmill, I will have to buy another milling machine. Actually, I found one I am in love with. However, I would have to choose between this mill or my Admiral. She said it is expensive... but why? It is only $13.000.00 :eek:

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Perfect for model ship building hey? lol
 
There is on that site also a reduction gear available, necessary when you use tools bigger then 6 mm.
 
Jimsky said:
I am seriously interested...gotta find my serial number first. Do you know where the serial number is located?
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maybe I think on the type plate on top of the drill on the side there is a number and a year. The number before the year could be the number. Other way to find is contact the firm and ask them. They now
 
Steef66 said:
maybe I think on the type plate on top of the drill on the side there is a number and a year. The number before the year could be the number. Other way to find is contact the firm and ask them. They now
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Thanks, Stephan. I found two numbers, but there is no indication they are SN. I sent a query to the USOVO. Also, will contact Proxxon as well.
 
I look on my machine and I only find that number I said. Even on the box is nothing. Succes.
 
Uwek said:
But when you take a closer look, they have mention the US in their postage costs-table
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Thanks, Mon Ami. Yes, but if the package is less than 2Kg, they will not ship? There is no cost in the table for less than 2Kg for the USA. I sent them a few emails yesterday, have no response yet.
 
Jimsky said:
Here I am folks again, and as usual, my post starts with the question. Today we will talk about the Proxxon mill MF70 and if there is any possibility to make it a bit better to suit our needs. Well...this discussion, will not be about converting MF70 to a CNC machine. There is plenty of discussion on the net. We also will not talk about how to improve the XYZ table to run it smoothly. So...what will we talk about, Jim?

A long time back I made an order at AliExpress to purchase some endmills for my FM70. Those were hard to find here, in the US, tiny bits like 1.0mm ~ 3mm. They come 3.2mm shank, stright\two-flutes and in various end-mill lengths. When the order arrived, Oh ...No...some of the mills were 4.00mm and even 5.00mm shanks! :mad: It was purely my fault as I didn't check correctly. I was intrigued by the shapes of some of those mills and...got punished. From that time, I was dreaming to convert the standard 8mm threaded collet system to the one that accepted at least 4.00mm shank. Recently I was searching again for the solution and... BINGO!

As you can guess, today I will discuss how to make your MF70 accept larger sizes shanks. The beauty of this method is that you don't have to rub the bank for parts and will not require to re-assemble your MF70. All you need is a converter, ER11 converter (image below).

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It comes with an 8mm bore at one end. The second end is fitted with an ER11 system, to accept collets (bought separately). On AliExpress, you can buy it as a set. This is important as you can buy as wrong collet system like ER16, they will not be fitted into ER11.

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Here are the colets. The set contained 15 colets to accept 15 different sizes. Technically speaking, you don't really need all the sizes, and you can save by buying those individually as required.

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I was hoping that the converter comes with an M8mm thread, so I can just swap with the existing 3mm collet system. I was wrong, and...got disappointed! However, both the inner diameter of the connector and the outer diameter of my mill rod are 8MM. Eyes are afraid, but hands are doing..... the connector tightly slides to the shaft without any problems. On the sides, the convertor has hex set screws so you can tight it to the mill road. I was afraid to ruin the thread by tying, but my worry was unnecessary. Set screws are almost at the top, and the exiting collet system ( 3mm) never goes that high. Here is how it is looking on my mill.

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I use the 4mm collet, and one of the fancy endmills I bout accidentally, Everything tight and...I turn the mill ON! WOW! The mill was running very smooth, with no additional sound, I mean like nothing changed. The next image is very important because I took it while the mill was running. I didn't use a quick shutter and the photo shows no wobbles at all!!! I wish I can have those indicators but I will move to the tests shortly. Now the image of a running mill.

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The first impression is very good!! I like it! At least it works! I couldn't wait anymore to mill some wood. So I ran a few tests, I am glad I can share them with you. For the test, I used standard endmills and boxwood scraps so they will hold the edge.

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There we of total 8 tests. I marked each test with a number.

Test #1. Proxxon end-mill 1.00mm and Proxxon collet system I pretend I need to make the holes in the cat davits. I use a 1.00mm end-mill from Proxxon (on the upper right image).

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I use my Mitutoyo caliper. Below is the result. It speaks for itself. Very precision! :)

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Test #2 and #3 I use a 1.00mm Proxxon end-mill, and a newly acquired ER11 converter with a 3.00mm collet system. Well, the results are not so impressive. It is off by 0.24mm. It is a lot!

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Test #4 Used the ER11 system and 4.00mm endmill. The first run (#4) is again off by 0.2mm

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However, in test #5, I use the different 4.00mm end mill (photo below) and I get a much more desirable result! Oh...yes!

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Test #7 1.00mm Proxxon endmill and ER11 system to mill jsut the deep line in the bloodwood. It did failed again, by 0.28mm

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Test #8 I used the Kyocera 0.8mm endmils and ER11 system (3.00mm collet), and got the eaxct mesasurements.

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The test #6 is just the surface test. Works well with 4.00mm stright\2 flute endmill. Very happy. That means, I can remove more wood from a single path if use 5mm endmill.

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Well, all tests were performed and my general impression - I am happy! Oh, yea!! I didn't make any tests on metals (brass\steel) but honestly, I am mostly using MF70 for woodworking. Finally, I will be able to use 4.00mm and 5.00mm endmills accidentally bouht a long time back. For some reason, the ER11 doesn't like Proxxon endmills, but I will play more and get back to you with the results. The last image shows the nice half-round groove made with one of the 4.00mm special shapes endmills. I can use it for gun carriages. ;)

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Any questions, please feel free to post, so we can discuss them! I might miss something... it was a busy day, thought

Thank you!
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Hi Jim, all

Nice idea. Thanks for sharing. Great minds think alike. I have done almost exactly the same thing with my Proxxon MF 70. However, in my approach, I bought the motor shaft ER11A 5mm (with 5mm internal bore). I stayed away from using the allen screw to tighten the shaft on the thread end of the machine. Instead, I tapped an internal thread of 8mm by drilling and tapping on the existing 5mm bore of the shaft using my Proxxon FD 150/E mini-lathe. The shaft can now be easily screwed on the machine nand use mill bits up to 7mm. Hope that be a useful tip.

Tolis
 
T-8 said:
Hi Jim, all

Nice idea. Thanks for sharing. Great minds think alike. I have done almost exactly the same thing with my Proxxon MF 70. However, in my approach, I bought the motor shaft ER11A 5mm (with 5mm internal bore). I stayed away from using the allen screw to tighten the shaft on the thread end of the machine. Instead, I tapped an internal thread of 8mm by drilling and tapping on the existing 5mm bore of the shaft using my Proxxon FD 150/E mini-lathe. The shaft can now be easily screwed on the machine nand use mill bits up to 7mm. Hope that be a useful tip.

Tolis
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Great to hear you have a similar solution implemented, Tolis. Unfortunately, I don't have a metal lathe to tap the M8.00mm thread. I wish I could. One word of cautiousness thought. The motor doesn't design for large diameter endmills, without further motor\reduction gear upgrades I wouldn't recommend using an endmill larger than 6.00mm.
 
I only use my Mf 70 for wood, when I want to mill metal I use the mill I built from scratch encompassing a Makita trim router with 6mm 8mm ,& 1/4" router bits & end mills. My order from Banggood has been dispatched!

Stuart
 
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