So it is one of Bob's kits!!!!! #Jealous
Colonial Schooner Hannah by Cap'n Rat Fink - 1/4" scale - semi scratch - Mario
- Thread starter teleman
- Start date
- Watchers 17
-
- Tags
- hannah harold hahn schooner
So it is one of Bob's kits!!!!! #Jealous
Thanks for the kind remarks.
Fairing of inside of hull going good. I am using small scrapers for a lot of the fairing.
The bow is lookin better as the fairing process comes together...
The view from the other end.
A view of the stern cant frames during fairing...
I ran into an issue at the stern which i notice during the fairing process...
A closer look...
Basically what I have checked to verify my findings....
A better view of the jig and deadwood alignment....
Even though I have this issue, to me it's not a real big problem. After I am done with the fairing of the inside of the hull I will be taking measurements.
My plan is to first measure the spacing of the stern framing slots on the jig. As long has I have the spacing from first port stern frame to the second frame, and the spacing matches the rest of the stern frames I should be good. If it works out like I think it should, I'll just modify the jig a bit so when I do the glue up the stern frames it will be good. All I ask from you more experience POF builders is that my deduction is correct.
The issues I run into are not frustrating, I find it as challenge and a learning experience and of course fun. Getting ready to start my first ever acoustic guitar build for my musician son. Tolerances on that will be a lot tougher.
Please any advice and remarks will be very helpful.
Fairing of inside of hull going good. I am using small scrapers for a lot of the fairing.
The bow is lookin better as the fairing process comes together...
The view from the other end.
A view of the stern cant frames during fairing...
I ran into an issue at the stern which i notice during the fairing process...
A closer look...
Basically what I have checked to verify my findings....
A better view of the jig and deadwood alignment....
Even though I have this issue, to me it's not a real big problem. After I am done with the fairing of the inside of the hull I will be taking measurements.
My plan is to first measure the spacing of the stern framing slots on the jig. As long has I have the spacing from first port stern frame to the second frame, and the spacing matches the rest of the stern frames I should be good. If it works out like I think it should, I'll just modify the jig a bit so when I do the glue up the stern frames it will be good. All I ask from you more experience POF builders is that my deduction is correct.
The issues I run into are not frustrating, I find it as challenge and a learning experience and of course fun. Getting ready to start my first ever acoustic guitar build for my musician son. Tolerances on that will be a lot tougher.
Please any advice and remarks will be very helpful.
Well I was away for a long time. So I decided to re-read the kit practicum. To refresh this portion of the build. Glad I did, because it saved me from a lot of work and from making any mistakes.
Now I have a big learning curve here. So I go with the Ol' saying "MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE". The practicum comes with all chapters to complete the model. But only goes so far with the JIG from the kit itself. So when I read on with the process I am also looking at pictures showing the explanation with Hahn's upside down JIG. Since I have no experience with either JIG. I'm trying to figure out things with two different JiG Views. So Bob's Jig is lasered cut. Lasers cut at an angle. So I have to file the slots square, Bob also mentions that the builder must also file the slots at angles since the laser will not do this, so the stern frames line up with the wing transom. So after re-reading and finding this little tid-bit of information it cleared things up.
So at this time I am filing the slots slowly and making sure the stern frames line up correctly with the wing transom. This little jig Bob added to the over all Jig helps hold the stern frames in place, where if it weren't there you would have to use a scrap piece glued to each piece tying them all together. How far can I go with this little slotted jig, before I have to remove it? I don't know. I'll go as far as I can then remove it.
If I could do it all over again, I would of never glued this part of the jig in. I would of made it fit nice and snug so I could remove it and put it back in place when I needed too. It would of made things easier to measure and view.
Now I have a big learning curve here. So I go with the Ol' saying "MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE". The practicum comes with all chapters to complete the model. But only goes so far with the JIG from the kit itself. So when I read on with the process I am also looking at pictures showing the explanation with Hahn's upside down JIG. Since I have no experience with either JIG. I'm trying to figure out things with two different JiG Views. So Bob's Jig is lasered cut. Lasers cut at an angle. So I have to file the slots square, Bob also mentions that the builder must also file the slots at angles since the laser will not do this, so the stern frames line up with the wing transom. So after re-reading and finding this little tid-bit of information it cleared things up.
So at this time I am filing the slots slowly and making sure the stern frames line up correctly with the wing transom. This little jig Bob added to the over all Jig helps hold the stern frames in place, where if it weren't there you would have to use a scrap piece glued to each piece tying them all together. How far can I go with this little slotted jig, before I have to remove it? I don't know. I'll go as far as I can then remove it.
If I could do it all over again, I would of never glued this part of the jig in. I would of made it fit nice and snug so I could remove it and put it back in place when I needed too. It would of made things easier to measure and view.
Well I have dealt with some of the going on's with the stern of the Hannah. Never have really done a POF of this nature before. So it's a learn as I go.
Please if you see that I have done something incorrectly. Let me know. I am trying to learn these more complicated models.
I had to bevel both ends and re-locate the outer slots to the wing transom for the outside frames. The bevel was for the WT to sit up against the deadwood
Please if you see that I have done something incorrectly. Let me know. I am trying to learn these more complicated models.
I had to bevel both ends and re-locate the outer slots to the wing transom for the outside frames. The bevel was for the WT to sit up against the deadwood
Well I have dealt with some of the going on's with the stern of the Hannah. Never have really done a POF of this nature before. So it's a learn as I go.
Please if you see that I have done something incorrectly. Let me know. I am trying to learn these more complicated models.
I had to bevel both ends and re-locate the outer slots to the wing transom for the outside frames. The bevel was for the WT to sit up against the deadwood
ALL COMMENTS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
Hi Ben,
From stern to bow. 14 1/2 inches. Bot sure with the bowsprit haven't gone that far as of yet. She's a little one.
Hi Arthur!
Ok I am thru chapter 5 which works with the building jig that comes with the kit. So I had to work up a plan for me to go on thru the completion of the model. Bob included all the other chapters with this kit to complete the model, but his course w/w Hahn's upside down building jig.
The other clinch it Hahn's method leaves a bit of material on each and every frame. Pulling measurements from the plans the kits frames leave a whole lot less material on the frames. So I have to proceed with caution when I start fairing the hull and cutting the notches out on the frames.
So i am going to alter the jig so I can do the major fairing with the hull still in the jig. But I will have to remove it to complete the fairing higher up on the frames.
One other decision I have to make is there anything I can add to the interior of the hull before I remove it from the jig. I am not experience at all with Hahn's style of building models so I have think things out. Any advice would be nice.
From stern to bow. 14 1/2 inches. Bot sure with the bowsprit haven't gone that far as of yet. She's a little one.
Hi Arthur!
Ok I am thru chapter 5 which works with the building jig that comes with the kit. So I had to work up a plan for me to go on thru the completion of the model. Bob included all the other chapters with this kit to complete the model, but his course w/w Hahn's upside down building jig.
The other clinch it Hahn's method leaves a bit of material on each and every frame. Pulling measurements from the plans the kits frames leave a whole lot less material on the frames. So I have to proceed with caution when I start fairing the hull and cutting the notches out on the frames.
So i am going to alter the jig so I can do the major fairing with the hull still in the jig. But I will have to remove it to complete the fairing higher up on the frames.
One other decision I have to make is there anything I can add to the interior of the hull before I remove it from the jig. I am not experience at all with Hahn's style of building models so I have think things out. Any advice would be nice.
Hi Mario,
Your model is looking good. I especially like your narration of what you are doing. It's very informative. I will be following your build with pleasure.
We are neighbors I am in Las Vegas, and WE have the best weather. I do, however, miss the ocean.
Your model is looking good. I especially like your narration of what you are doing. It's very informative. I will be following your build with pleasure.
We are neighbors I am in Las Vegas, and WE have the best weather. I do, however, miss the ocean.
Hi Mike,
Thank You kind words. I try to be as be as informative with my builds. Just in case someone has this kit, it might help them. My oldest son lives in Vegas. We live in Apple Valley. We plan on moving closer to the ocean when retirement is here.
I'm now fairing the majority of the hull at this time....
Thank You kind words. I try to be as be as informative with my builds. Just in case someone has this kit, it might help them. My oldest son lives in Vegas. We live in Apple Valley. We plan on moving closer to the ocean when retirement is here.
I'm now fairing the majority of the hull at this time....
I have decided to add whatever I could before removing model from building jig. Plus transfer whatever lines I could from the plans. I added the keelson, plus doing the hawse timber, down the road are the deck clamps, and maybe the deck beams and ledges. But I need to notch out the frames and the jig is in the way. So trying to figure that one out. As for the stern same thing jig is in the way to add the other transoms.
I have decided to add whatever I could before removing model from building jig. Plus transfer whatever lines I could from the plans. I added the keelson, plus doing the hawse timber, down the road are the deck clamps, and maybe the deck beams and ledges. But I need to notch out the frames and the jig is in the way. So trying to figure that one out. As for the stern same thing jig is in the way to add the other transoms.
Well I'm trying to get back to my model, But here in California it is just a plain pain in the butt dealing with disability insurance. But back to my build.
I bought this kit a few years back. But I failed to purchase cherry for the rest of the build at that time. So I do have some cherry from another build left over, but the color between the two is just off. Which just bugs me. So since I am trying to do what i can internally before I pull the model from the jig, I decided to use basswood for the forward deck clamps. To save what I can of the cherry I got left. This won't be a problem because my plan is the plank the hull almost completely and the same for the deck. So this deck clamp won't be seen. I just like the look of these schooners. IMO they just look real good fully planked. So that is where I'm headed.
Now this next pic you will see a redline. I am going to cut this portion of the jig out exposing the last can't frame and the stern. I have to add all the support and the other transoms to the stern, but I can't get to it unless I cut this portion of the jig out. Leaving the rest will protect the bow and the full frames while I am dealing with the stern. So thanks for stopping by
Hi MARIO.
I AM BUILDING THE LUMBERYARDS VERSION OF HANNA, SO I HOPE YOU DO NOT MIND IF I ASK YOU
QUESTION ABOUT THE KEEL OF YOUR MODEL. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF YOU TAPERED THE KEEL OR
WAS IT LEFT UNTAPERED, DEAREST REGARDS. JANET
I AM BUILDING THE LUMBERYARDS VERSION OF HANNA, SO I HOPE YOU DO NOT MIND IF I ASK YOU
QUESTION ABOUT THE KEEL OF YOUR MODEL. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF YOU TAPERED THE KEEL OR
WAS IT LEFT UNTAPERED, DEAREST REGARDS. JANET
Hi Janet,
Thanks for stopping by. The Keel was not tapered. Now the Keelson which sits in the interior of the hull is tapered a bit only on the stern side. I hope this helps you out.
Have you started a build log here on SOS?
Thanks for stopping by. The Keel was not tapered. Now the Keelson which sits in the interior of the hull is tapered a bit only on the stern side. I hope this helps you out.
Have you started a build log here on SOS?
Ok I am in the process of adding the other 4 transoms. I took all measurements from Hahns plans. All pieces are 1/8" in thickness including the basswood spacers. You will see pictures of the plans. To bar any issues from showing this online with all this copy rights thing going on, the pictures of the plans were taken at an angle to distort them a bit.
If anybody sees that I have an issue with my transoms please tell me because I am learning. I am following Bob's practicum. Which has been very helpful. Learning a lot here!
If anybody sees that I have an issue with my transoms please tell me because I am learning. I am following Bob's practicum. Which has been very helpful. Learning a lot here!
And a few more pics...
The fairing of the starboard side transom went without a hitch. They look rough. But so does the rest of the hull. The final fairing will be done when I pull the model from the building jig.
I left a lot of material on the first set of transoms, being my first time doing this process I wanted to make I was good with enough material. It went well so I went ahead and removed enough material to make the fairing a bit less time consuming. The tape was there to protect the sternpost from the rough fairing.
Building this portion of the model did not seem to me to be very hard to do. Measuring and transferring those measurements from plans to material and rechecking payed off. The practicum for this part of the build was very informative.
I left a lot of material on the first set of transoms, being my first time doing this process I wanted to make I was good with enough material. It went well so I went ahead and removed enough material to make the fairing a bit less time consuming. The tape was there to protect the sternpost from the rough fairing.
Building this portion of the model did not seem to me to be very hard to do. Measuring and transferring those measurements from plans to material and rechecking payed off. The practicum for this part of the build was very informative.
HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.
SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.
THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.
THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.
SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.
THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.
THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!
Hello All,
trying to recoup from knee surgery and the long recovery ahead. So to take my mind off of the pain I decided to try to get back to my model.
So before I start framing the quarter deck I added the Wales to strengthen the hull frames. I followed hahns advice. The Wales being 3/32nds of an inch thick I ripped two strips of ebony and one of cherry. I laminated all 3 together with regular white glue and clamped them to one of my drinking glass to form the curve at the bow. Bending a solid piece of ebony at 3/32nd's wood of been a bear.
I took a basswood stripe of 3/32 and clamped it to the hull after I transferred the locations measurements from the plans. The basswood was for practice and once in place I took some tape to mark the full strake. Once I was done I knew exactly where I was going to place the Wales. I added two strakes of boxwood above the Wales also.
I did this to help me verify that i placed the deck clamp in the correct loactions. because once the deck beams and ledges and the 1/16th thick deck planking was in place, my third boxwood strake wood line up perfectly. I did this because the third strake is where the scubbers reside.
I did a lot of measuring and re-measuring and transferring those measurements and re-checking again and again. Remember the jig I used from the kit had to be removed to do all this. Plus the rest of the practicum was with the hahn upside down jig. I doing this in no jig at all from here out. PLUS I AM FIRST TIMER ON POF WITH THIS MUCH DETAIL.
I did not mind because it help me from concentrating too my on my knee. I was really getting into it. I also cut out the stantions. I had to completely cut out the howes timbers and the catheads. The laser cut frames from the kit were too short. So I added a piece and pegged it to the existing frame.
My apologies with not having enough pictures to show all this, because of my hurting leg. Not in the picture taking mood. Advice blow up your knee like I did and it won't hurt so damn much! HAHAAHA!!!
As I continue on I sure my plan comes together and my measuring is spot on or so close that I'm happy with it.
trying to recoup from knee surgery and the long recovery ahead. So to take my mind off of the pain I decided to try to get back to my model.
So before I start framing the quarter deck I added the Wales to strengthen the hull frames. I followed hahns advice. The Wales being 3/32nds of an inch thick I ripped two strips of ebony and one of cherry. I laminated all 3 together with regular white glue and clamped them to one of my drinking glass to form the curve at the bow. Bending a solid piece of ebony at 3/32nd's wood of been a bear.
I took a basswood stripe of 3/32 and clamped it to the hull after I transferred the locations measurements from the plans. The basswood was for practice and once in place I took some tape to mark the full strake. Once I was done I knew exactly where I was going to place the Wales. I added two strakes of boxwood above the Wales also.
I did this to help me verify that i placed the deck clamp in the correct loactions. because once the deck beams and ledges and the 1/16th thick deck planking was in place, my third boxwood strake wood line up perfectly. I did this because the third strake is where the scubbers reside.
I did a lot of measuring and re-measuring and transferring those measurements and re-checking again and again. Remember the jig I used from the kit had to be removed to do all this. Plus the rest of the practicum was with the hahn upside down jig. I doing this in no jig at all from here out. PLUS I AM FIRST TIMER ON POF WITH THIS MUCH DETAIL.
I did not mind because it help me from concentrating too my on my knee. I was really getting into it. I also cut out the stantions. I had to completely cut out the howes timbers and the catheads. The laser cut frames from the kit were too short. So I added a piece and pegged it to the existing frame.
My apologies with not having enough pictures to show all this, because of my hurting leg. Not in the picture taking mood. Advice blow up your knee like I did and it won't hurt so damn much! HAHAAHA!!!
As I continue on I sure my plan comes together and my measuring is spot on or so close that I'm happy with it.