Columbus ships, Santa Maria and Pinta, kit by Amati... [COMPLETED BUILD]

A little more work has been completed; the cabin was done, 2mm waterways added on quarterdeck, and I have applied a layer of tung oil on the quarterdeck and sides...

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Cabin in waiting stage for a furniture... I wanted to make a bed for captain as well, but decided not to since it will not be that visible and only two chairs and table was added. Bed will be done in some next build...

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Furniture was brought on the board, I missed Ikea delivery :)

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Medieval furniture for sale...

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Glued to the final position.. I also lowered the cross a bit so it can be seen thru the door. The shade of cross' previous position was corrected..

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Peaking thru the door; door frame need a bit corrective work.. darn high res...

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The upper deck was glued to the possition, awaiting for planking..

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Planking started, 1x4mm planks borrowed from other Amati kit from the shelf.

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For this assembly I decided to simulate caulking using dark brown crayola..

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Planking on the way. For glue I used carpenter' glue and only plank ends were covered with a drop of CA.

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Completed and awaiting scraping and nail simulating... Planks usually don't end with such a sharp points but they will be covered with waterways and bulwarks so they not be visible.

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Happy modelling..
Love the addition of furniture. Gives it a more realistic feel. Your model is coming along nicely.
 
Continue with ladder... these are small scale ladder so I had to install every second board on both sides and then after a bit of pushing and fitting, glue them all together.

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All ladders done and ready for a layer of oil..

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Then I assembled the crosstrees and platform (top). Platform is kit provided and no changes will be done there, with potential exception of colouring it in bright colours, as suggested in "Historic ship models". Will see yet..

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Then I added on port side a channel; channel is kit provided as I was unable to fit custom one I made before. Forgot to shape channel to fit closely to the hull which was very hard to do once all fenders are in place. Instead, I covered kit provided channel with cherry 0.3mm planks, sanded it, cut all openings, and fit against the fenders.

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After that I continue installing fenders at the stern. Kit plan does not provide any dimension for these fenders, just which plank to use, 2x2mm. So, even single one will need to be cut and fitted individually; the only good thing is once I have one fender done, I can trace it to approximate dimensions for the next one...

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I have added two more fenders, not included in the plan but were on some other SM replicas on the Internet. It is basically a fender made out of 4 1x4mm planks, glued together to form an 2x8mm plank.

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Then this fender was shaped to the hull shape and added to the stern.

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Sanding as usual for a proper fit..

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A little bit off after sanding and cleaning will be required to remove all those glue marks and a layer of tung oil will be applied afterwards.

Happy modeling.
 
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Worked on a windlass; kit provided carrick bits were not quite appealing so I decided to replace them with one made out of cherry wood board, 3mm thick. The shape was transferred to the board then cut with a saw. Lots of sanding and shaping was done ..

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Channel at the starboard side was done next, in the same way as port side one..

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Happy modelling..
 
Worked on a windlass; kit provided carrick bits were not quite appealing so I decided to replace them with one made out of cherry wood board, 3mm thick. The shape was transferred to the board then cut with a saw. Lots of sanding and shaping was done ..

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Channel at the starboard side was done next, in the same way as port side one..

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Happy modelling..
well worth the effort if you ask me.
 
Here is the place in the build that need attention, which I haven't pay... These two ornaments are covering the holes in the hull thru which sail rigging rope will go, so before working on upper deck, ropes have to be attached inside of the hull and left hanging waiting for the sail rigging to take place. Since i did not think about this moment which was not mentioned in the instruction (actually there is a small, unclear picture showing some lines going thru this area but no details about actual rigging), I will need to fake the internal rigging with a hope that no one will peak inside. And I do have lights going in this area... So, don't tell anyone...

I dipped these ornaments in blackening solution, for short time, did not want to have them blackened all the way; like this kind of used, damaged by the heavy seas moment...


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Continued with windlass installation, by adding some wire simulating nails that should hold this big and important ship part in place. Windlass was assembled and glued to the deck.

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After this I worked on boat crutches by cutting two 2x4mm boards, added two simulated nails using brass wire, sanded flush to the boards. Two eyes were also installed on sides of each board, the grove for a boat keel was filed and crutches were installed on the ship. I was using eyes provided with the kit, just painted them in flat black.

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Crutches are dipped in golden oak stain during which I lost one crutch in the can. It took me a while to find the crutch which eventually emerged after some time but it was hard to see it because of plenty bubbles on the surface made by shaking the stain.

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Boat was removed for later installation..

I have applied a layer of tung oil coat to newly installed parts.

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I also put in several eyes needed to hold sail ropes, following positions marked on the plan..

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Getting close to continue work on Pinta...

Happy modelling.
 
The orthodontist in me wants you to flip the one ring the other way on the ringbolt ROTF.

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Continue adding deck items.. ladder leading to main deck are glued in place.

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Pilot holes are also drilled to hold the railing.

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Making sure it stay correct..

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Happy modelling..
Good morning. I played a little catch up with your build this am. Wow! Your detail work is off the charts. Beautiful modelling. Cheers Grant
 
Continue working on Pinta by drilling the holes for guns.... first, small hole and using a file, manually resize it to accommodate guns..

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... and poop deck by making poppets and rails...

First, traced the positions from the plan and transferred it to the deck..

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Then I used a fancy tool to make a pilot holes I will be using to secure poppets in the deck..

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Holes marked...and drilled...

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Making sure that poppets are correct hight, 12mm distance was measured and used to confirm..

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The piece of a wire (in this case nail cut in two) were inserted to every poppet..

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They were positioned to the deck and glued.

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The main adjustment will be done once other two boards are glued to poppets and the rail is positioned on the top. For rail, since there is slight curvature, I dropped it into water and twisted using pins. The spare wood was used to protect the rails from marks pins usually leave in the wood.

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Happy modelling..
 
Continue work on Pinta by preparing some blocks and hooks for rigging. This ship requires 14 single blocks for masts. They all will be attached to the deck, no channels for Pinta, well at least not in this plan. I noticed few other Pinta' plans with channels and pins but I will stick with current.

I am using eyes and blocks provided in the kit, will just replace kit' rope with my supplies, dark brown colour think goes better that pure black. Since eyes are already build, I will need to paint them in flat black (tried to blackening them but cannot prepare them well enough and, as a reason, blackening solution will not stick), once they are attached to blocks.

One knot to secure rope to the eye, and second, very close to the first one, to allow block to be positioned correctly.

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Simple knot is done at the other end of a block, secured with a drop of CA.

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Then to speed up the building process a bit...

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Happy modelling..
 
Blocks are completed and a layer of flat black colour applied to all; they have been drying for a few hours..

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Openings for blocks are marked according to kit plan and holes drilled...

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Blocks are all inserted into holes and before that, a drop of a CA was applied to every hole.
Had to cut off the length of the wire to the total of 4mm for every hook.

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Then worked on the poop deck by adding horizontal planks, port and starboard 1x3mm and stern side 1x4mm.

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The boards are then sanded lightly and prepared for a rail.
Then i worked on a hatch, coamings and lids; for this process I used 1x4mm planks, and added a 1x1mm line inside of coamings (only on port and starboard side) that will accept lids.

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Lids, front and back side of hatch are then cut in correct length and needed number.

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Hatch was assembled and fitting tested on the deck

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Inside of a hatch, I marked lines that will border a black paint which, hopefully, will simulating an opening..

The hatch was glued to the deck and secured with two clamps. Before gluing, I sanded hatch so it will fit small deck curvature: having piece of sanding paper (300 grid) laid down to the deck, I just moved hatch back and forward on sanding paper until it got correct deck curvature.

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During process of securing hatch with clamps, I damaged the black paint, need to correct that.

Then I made 20 hooks and rings for lids. Every board will have two hooks and rings. This time I did not solder rings, just tightly squeezed wire ends together. Since it will not hold any rope it is OK not to solder. Blackening is next..

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Happy modelling..
 
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