Columbus ships, Santa Maria and Pinta, kit by Amati... [COMPLETED BUILD]

[moreplovac]

The last wale plank installed, small issues corrected and sanded in place.



The forecastle deck was also glued in place and secured with rubber bands. For rubber bands to hold, I drove one nail into hull and use it to hold the stretched bands.







Once wale was dried and secured on the hull I started marking the right-hand end of fenders.


The only one marking that is showing left-hand side of a fender is between second and third water openings. This area has to have a shorter span between two fenders. Not sure if this is historically correct but, hey, no completelly accurate plans for SM exists...If there is any plan to be proven, I will build another SM from scratch...So, lets back to business of placing fenders...

Plank 1x3mm was used for this work. Individual planks were cut and fitting was done by sanding and testing each one so they will sit tight between wales. The second run of fenders will cover them as well as wales. The third fender will do the same as second layer. Excess CA glue will be removed after but will try not to mess it too much..



There is no specific order, I just decided to run all 'upper' fenders first..






There is also a layer of veneer put on the rudder area...







The second fender layer started... before adding the second layer, the wales and fenders will have to be flattened by sending so the second layer will fit in smoothly, no bumps, otherwise the two 1x3mm planks (first and second layer) will show where they are connected (glued).





That was all for this evening... happy modelling.

 

[moreplovac]

Work on fenders continue by adding the second and third layer on port side as well as first layer on starboard side...







This time decided to do all three layers on the first fender section, just for fun and to break the routine..



First layer completed. The ship will have number of fake nails that will include those not quite lined up with the first fender layer..



Happy modelling...

 

[moreplovac]

The second fender layer its on its way.... this time I used a different approach for bottom part of a fender since it is hard to keep it bended if the fender is cut the correct length. I used the full plank length, glue it and then cut the excess. This way the bending is not that hard...



Also, decided to glue first the second and third plank together and then add them both as ticker plank to the ship. Much nicer and easier..





A little bit of a painter' tape was applied to protect the hull while scrapping the excess glue from fenders...



Tedious work but it is worthwhile...

Happy modelling..

 

[GrantTyler]

The second fender layer its on its way.... this time I used a different approach for bottom part of a fender since it is hard to keep it bended if the fender is cut the correct length. I used the full plank length, glue it and then cut the excess. This way the bending is not that hard...

View attachment 343246

Also, decided to glue first the second and third plank together and then add them both as ticker plank to the ship. Much nicer and easier..

View attachment 343245

View attachment 343244

A little bit of a painter' tape was applied to protect the hull while scrapping the excess glue from fenders...

View attachment 343243

Tedious work but it is worthwhile...

Happy modelling..

Good morning. I love they way these fenders change the look of the boat. Cheers Grant

 

[RDN1954]

The second fender layer its on its way.... this time I used a different approach for bottom part of a fender since it is hard to keep it bended if the fender is cut the correct length. I used the full plank length, glue it and then cut the excess. This way the bending is not that hard...

View attachment 343246

Also, decided to glue first the second and third plank together and then add them both as ticker plank to the ship. Much nicer and easier..

View attachment 343245

View attachment 343244

A little bit of a painter' tape was applied to protect the hull while scrapping the excess glue from fenders...

View attachment 343243

Tedious work but it is worthwhile...

Happy modelling..

Looking good!

 

[moreplovac]

Good morning. I love they way these fenders change the look of the boat. Cheers Grant

Yes, they do give a twist to the build....
Cheers

 

[moreplovac]

Since I widened the keel for a 1mm by adding a layer of veneer, I have to make a new rudder. So, if anyone need a nicely, cherry wood carved rudder and tiller for Santa Maria....

First the appropriate piece of wood was located; it is approximately 1cm thick but it will be sanded to the correct thickness.. The shape of the old rudder was transferred to it..







After rough cut on a bandsaw, fine tuning will begin.



The tiller has to be rebuilt as well, so it takes the basic shape using a bandsaw and some sanding and shaping will take place.. I know, new, unfinished tiller looks a bit weird..



Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

I have managed to use the old tiller; so the new, wider rudder was carved and sanded, tiller installed and fitting tested on the ship.





A little pin was inserted from both tiller ends, simulating a stronger bond.



Then I started to work on hinges; first I cut a small stripe of painter' tape, about 3mm wide and wrapped around rudder. The length of pintles were marked, as well as hole for pins. The third pintle will be the same length as second.



This is a sheet I have purchased recently, 0.3mm x 100mm x 1M. It will last for some time for sure...



Then I cut the piece of brass sheet, 30mm wide, which will be the maximum length of both pintles and gudgeon.



Basically, the idea is to cut strips that will be used for pintles and gudgeons. For cutting I will use scalpel, #11 and run approximately 10 cuts per strip, and then use pliers to break the strip. If anything has to be sanded afterwards, will take care of it later. The pilot lines were marked on the sheet and cutting can begin. I will cut few extras and choose 6 the best looking strips.



First one...



Now, I got a support call from job, have to continue tomorrow...

Happy modelling...

 

[moreplovac]

Have not decided what to do with keel bottom, thinking of just paint it in flat black instead of running another layer of veneer... regardless, the keel has to be repaired a bit with a layer of wood putty. The hook will be left overnight to dry and tomorrow will do sanding..





While putty is drying, lets get back to pintles and gudgeons. Cutting them from the brass sheet, using #11 scalpel, which has to be replaced after...



Did not expect to have a smooth cuts using this method, fairly surprised must say... very easy to cut and bending it with pliers made no issues whatsoever.

Strips are cut with more length that needed since I am planning to glue the ends to the board so they will not move during drilling. The blue tape is just a template to follow while drilling.



I use sharp needle to mark the spots for 0.4mm holes that will be drilled.



Put another layers of painter's tape just to secure strips from moving. It turned out that extra length I planed is not enough to keep them from moving...



Drilling is very easy with Proxxon drill press and compound x/y table for moving the piece to correct position.





During drilling, I broke one bit, not by pressing hard, but while I was positioning Proxxon, I dropped it to the desk and off course, drill just snapped..
Strips are easy removed from the board with a scalpel put under the strips and moved out to the ends..



Then I bend strips and tested fittings.







Now it is time to cut the tubings, in 3mm length. For this I used a mini bench top-cut off saw, 2in blade diameter. Brass round tube, 2mm, was used for this work.





Those little cutoff tubings fly all over the place so I put a piece of electrical tape to catch them.






Soldering was done using one previously made rudder with the same width as the new one. It is very difficult to keep the all pieces tight and solder them without tube moving around so need to shop around for helping hands...







Happy modelling..

 

[GrantTyler]

Have not decided what to do with keel bottom, thinking of just paint it in flat black instead of running another layer of veneer... regardless, the keel has to be repaired a bit with a layer of wood putty. The hook will be left overnight to dry and tomorrow will do sanding..

View attachment 343792

View attachment 343791

While putty is drying, lets get back to pintles and gudgeons. Cutting them from the brass sheet, using #11 scalpel, which has to be replaced after...

View attachment 343790

Did not expect to have a smooth cuts using this method, fairly surprised must say... very easy to cut and bending it with pliers made no issues whatsoever.

Strips are cut with more length that needed since I am planning to glue the ends to the board so they will not move during drilling. The blue tape is just a template to follow while drilling.

View attachment 343789

I use sharp needle to mark the spots for 0.4mm holes that will be drilled.

View attachment 343788

Put another layers of painter's tape just to secure strips from moving. It turned out that extra length I planed is not enough to keep them from moving...

View attachment 343787

Drilling is very easy with Proxxon drill press and compound x/y table for moving the piece to correct position.

View attachment 343786

View attachment 343785

During drilling, I broke one bit, not by pressing hard, but while I was positioning Proxxon, I dropped it to the desk and off course, drill just snapped..
Strips are easy removed from the board with a scalpel put under the strips and moved out to the ends..

View attachment 343784

Then I bend strips and tested fittings.

View attachment 343783

View attachment 343782

View attachment 343781

Now it is time to cut the tubings, in 3mm length. For this I used a mini bench top-cut off saw, 2in blade diameter. Brass round tube, 2mm, was used for this work.

View attachment 343780

View attachment 343779

Those little cutoff tubings fly all over the place so I put a piece of electrical tape to catch them.

View attachment 343778


View attachment 343777

Soldering was done using one previously made rudder with the same width as the new one. It is very difficult to keep the all pieces tight and solder them without tube moving around so need to shop around for helping hands...

View attachment 343775

View attachment 343776

View attachment 343774

Happy modelling..

Good morning. Thanks for this detailed process. Excellent work. Cheers Grant

 

[moreplovac]

Good morning. Thanks for this detailed process. Excellent work. Cheers Grant

Hi Grant,
Thanks and glad you find it useful..

Cheers

 

[moreplovac]

There hinges (pintles and gudgeons) were cleaned in cleaner-degreaser, and outside was painted in flat black. I did not want to go with blackening process just to keep inside of both pintles and gudgeons clean in the hope of better gluing capabilities. Planning to glue them to the ship and rudder with a CA glue.





Then I switches work on the deck by glueing two strips of 2x4mm.





Then the the walls have been worked on by glueing planking strips on a some left over 4x1mm strips. For some reason I ran out of kit provided 1x4mm strips so have to make something up..





Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

Now, lets refresh elementary math knowledge:



Bulwarks are 2x2mm, one on each side of the fence; planking for a fence is 1x1mm, two of those are needed:
(2x2)+ 2(1x1) = 6mm

The kit provided handrail plank (number 51) is 1x4mm, so I am missing 2mm of plank width and if I go with these I will have bulwarks sticking out. So, decision is to make a bulwarks a bit thinner and not to use provided 1x4mm but few planks from my stack, that are 5.4mm wide. These new planks will match the main deck fence, for the lack of a better term. I used a 1mm balsa as a foundation for 1mm planking on both ends, which means that each bulwark will have to be sanded to 1.3mm, approximately. One bulwark sanded..



I also built the rest of the deck fence, and started to install it.



To cover the deck plywood, I put some planking leftovers; I have practice not to trow any material until the kit is over. Then I will go thru leftovers, choose the best one and get rid of the rest.



Bulwarks are also mounted on the fence; they are not in the plan but I like the way it turned out.





Continue with the deck..



Combination of CA and carpenter' glue was used to keep the fence in place..





Extra carpenter' glue was removed later, before it is fully cured.








Happy modelling...

 

[moreplovac]

Breaking the routine, I start putting pintles on the rudder..



The work on the deck continuing by adding gunwales (trincarini, italian), 1x1mm planks. It would be better to have them installed on the fence first, so the bulwarks will sit on top of them, before glueing to the deck but I just forgot that step. Now, I have to measure a distance between bulwarks, cut the plank and drop it in.










Some of them are tiny..





The look from the bow..







Then I decided to make the bow a little bit nicer, and to make another board, out of 1x4mm planks and glue it to the deck, from the bow side.
I did not have enough correct plank sizes so I glued and sanded few leftovers..





Now, it looks a bit more completed.





Cutting the 2x2 planks on 45 degrees angle, I started building the rigging (portamanovre, ital).



Capodibanda (ital) or how I called it a handrails are also added to the deck with some extra length.







I used a handsaw to cut the excess wood... then the edges were sanded so they are not sharp.

Now it is time to work on the deck by marking the opening which will be painted in black, to simulate darkness of the lower deck... From the plan, I took position and dimensions and transfered to the ship.



Then using painter' tape, I marked the borders





Using acrylic paint I put a layer of flat black color.



Happy modelling..

 

[ConsNZ]

Breaking the routine, I start putting pintles on the rudder..

View attachment 344585

The work on the deck continuing by adding gunwales (trincarini, italian), 1x1mm planks. It would be better to have them installed on the fence first, so the bulwarks will sit on top of them, before glueing to the deck but I just forgot that step. Now, I have to measure a distance between bulwarks, cut the plank and drop it in.

View attachment 344604


View attachment 344605

View attachment 344601

View attachment 344603

Some of them are tiny..

View attachment 344588

View attachment 344602

The look from the bow..

View attachment 344599

View attachment 344600

View attachment 344598

Then I decided to make the bow a little bit nicer, and to make another board, out of 1x4mm planks and glue it to the deck, from the bow side.
I did not have enough correct plank sizes so I glued and sanded few leftovers..

View attachment 344587

View attachment 344586

Now, it looks a bit more completed.

View attachment 344589

View attachment 344590

Cutting the 2x2 planks on 45 degrees angle, I started building the rigging (portamanovre, ital).

View attachment 344597

Capodibanda (ital) or how I called it a handrails are also added to the deck with some extra length.

View attachment 344596

View attachment 344595

View attachment 344594

I used a handsaw to cut the excess wood... then the edges were sanded so they are not sharp.

Now it is time to work on the deck by marking the opening which will be painted in black, to simulate darkness of the lower deck... From the plan, I took position and dimensions and transfered to the ship.

View attachment 344584

Then using painter' tape, I marked the borders

View attachment 344583

View attachment 344582

Using acrylic paint I put a layer of flat black color.

View attachment 344581

Happy modelling..

View attachment 344591

View attachment 344592

View attachment 344593

Excellent work.

 

[moreplovac]

Starting to work on hatch by adding coamings and making frame for hatch covers. I added an extra plank on which cover planks will be sitting.







The cover planks were sanded on sides to achieve a bit more realistic look.



Then the planks were flipped over and markings for holes were added.







The cover planks are coated with a golden oak stain..



The hooks/rings for covering planks were made out of 0.6mm brass wire. I have some left over wire from previous work and will use those parts for some hooks. Wire was cleaned with 1000 grid sanding paper so the blackening will hold better.



Rings/hooks are done. Not sure what the correct term is for those U-shaped items.



These reminds me of childhood when we used similar item but for other purposes..



Rings were straighten from the cut and prepared for soldering.



First set of rings soldered.



Rings were cleaned in degreaser for few minutes and washed in water, dried and put in blackening solution.



Once blackening is done, they are dried on a paper and "polished" with a brush.



Ready for mounting..



Here is first stage of mounting..



The excess on the other side was cut off and drop of CA was put to keep all in place.





The glue and any extra wire from the back will be sanded down and planks will be installed on the hatch.



Happy modelling..

 

[ConsNZ]

Starting to work on hatch by adding coamings and making frame for hatch covers. I added an extra plank on which cover planks will be sitting.

View attachment 344714

View attachment 344713

View attachment 344712

The cover planks were sanded on sides to achieve a bit more realistic look.

View attachment 344711

Then the planks were flipped over and markings for holes were added.

View attachment 344709

View attachment 344708

View attachment 344707

The cover planks are coated with a golden oak stain..

View attachment 344706

The hooks/rings for covering planks were made out of 0.6mm brass wire. I have some left over wire from previous work and will use those parts for some hooks. Wire was cleaned with 1000 grid sanding paper so the blackening will hold better.

View attachment 344705

Rings/hooks are done. Not sure what the correct term is for those U-shaped items.

View attachment 344700

These reminds me of childhood when we used similar item but for other purposes..

View attachment 344716

Rings were straighten from the cut and prepared for soldering.

View attachment 344703

First set of rings soldered.

View attachment 344702

Rings were cleaned in degreaser for few minutes and washed in water, dried and put in blackening solution.

View attachment 344701

Once blackening is done, they are dried on a paper and "polished" with a brush.

View attachment 344699

Ready for mounting..

View attachment 344700

Here is first stage of mounting..

View attachment 344698

The excess on the other side was cut off and drop of CA was put to keep all in place.

View attachment 344696

View attachment 344695

The glue and any extra wire from the back will be sanded down and planks will be installed on the hatch.

View attachment 344694

Happy modelling..

View attachment 344704

View attachment 344710

Simply love what your doing with the hatch/planks, the hooks and rings.. very inspirational. I tried soldering LMAO! big burns, little success. Oh well trying is best. Looking forward to the next update. cheers.

 

[moreplovac]

Yes, I had some failures with soldering as well; had to try different approaches, material, etc until I think I located the winning combo for now and for this type of work.

For this particular case, all rings were cleaned before soldering took place and loop ends were closed as tighter as possible to lower the gap between them. The best option is if ends can touch each other. Then some amount of soldering paste was applied and a small soldering biscuit (a piece of soldering wire squeezed with pliers) was added on top of it. When using torch, I put it on 2 and slowly bringing the flame towards the ring, from the opened end. The flame will start melting the solder and if enough soldering paste was applied, the melted solder will find its way to ring and close the gap. Sometimes solder just runs away and no way to bring it back beside starting again.









Hope this makes sense..

Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

Work on hatch has been completed.



The layer of tung oil has been applied to the hatch and deck.











Now, lets wait til oil is dry to continue with a build.

Happy modelling..

 

[ConsNZ]

Yes, I had some failures with soldering as well; had to try different approaches, material, etc until I think I located the winning combo for now and for this type of work.

For this particular case, all rings were cleaned before soldering took place and loop ends were closed as tighter as possible to lower the gap between them. The best option is if ends can touch each other. Then some amount of soldering paste was applied and a small soldering biscuit (a piece of soldering wire squeezed with pliers) was added on top of it. When using torch, I put it on 2 and slowly bringing the flame towards the ring, from the opened end. The flame will start melting the solder and if enough soldering paste was applied, the melted solder will find its way to ring and close the gap. Sometimes solder just runs away and no way to bring it back beside starting again.

View attachment 344761

View attachment 344760

View attachment 344759

View attachment 344758

Hope this makes sense..

Happy modelling..

Thank you for explaining how you successfully solder individual brass pieces. I will try to follow your method, keep trying and hopefully not burn anything down or scorch myself. I do have a Pencil Torch I use when annealing PE prior to etching etc. So that's a start. To date I've used a very cheap soldering iron that creates lots of little run-a-way balls. that like CA glue will do everything you don't want done.
Currently working on the AL Santa Maria so have been following your build despite the models being of different design interpretations. Everything is about learning processes and procedures in model assembly, in my case, without the use of miniature machinery, Lathes, thicknesser's, scroll saws all the bits n pieces I envy or for that matter a work shop to work in. I've not started an SOS build for my AL SM model as I'm not sure if permissible so soon after completing La Pinta. -- Cheers.