Constitution Cross Section MS20245 Model Expo

[Rob444]

I can see many uses for that tool. I find my dremmel too powerful to sand things like this, even though it has a variable speed.

It is extremely light weight. The one I have is powered by a USB block. You can get assorted grit drums for the sander. They also have models that are cordless for a bit more. I highly recommend this little device. The arbor shaft size is not the same size as the dremel tools, just for your information.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DBKQVJHB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Rob

 

[Jack Sparrow]

It is extremely light weight. The one I have is powered by a USB block. You can get assorted grit drums for the sander. They also have models that are cordless for a bit more. I highly recommend this little device. The arbor shaft size is not the same size as the dremel tools, just for your information.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DBKQVJHB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Rob

ok, thanks for the information. I`ll look into it. I need something small. For me the dremmel is too big

 

[Rob444]

Using the nail drill and some sandpaper, the stanchions were made round and cleaned up.

 

[Rob444]

The instructions would have you glue the stanchions to the fife rail and then position the 2 end stanchions, that have a 1/32" brass rod inserted into the bottom, into small holes in the deck, at each end. I decided to glue the 2 end stanchions with their brass rods into the holes and put the fife rail with the other stanchions glued onto it into place. This worked well.

The 2 stanchions secured to the deck.



The other 3 stanchions glued to the fife rail.

The fife rail glued into place.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

i should have started with the cross section model. lol. It looks good

 

[Rebus]

Still watching and amazed at the work you are doing with this cross-section. May need to build this one myself.

 

[Rob444]

Thank you both! I am sure it is a much easier build than a full length model. One concern I have it that, looking at the pictures, the mast is so tall compared to the length of the hull section it looks out of proportion. I may do what Tom Culb did and end the mast above the main yard and the fighting station to make it more compact. There is only so much room!

Rob

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Thank you both! I am sure it is a much easier build than a full length model. One concern I have it that, looking at the pictures, the mast is sop tall compared to the length of the hull section it looks out of proportion. I may do what Tom Culb did and end the mast above the main yard and the fighting station to make it more compact. There is only so much room!

Rob

THis is just my opinion, but I think you should complete the mast and all the yards. Up to you, of course.

 

[Rob444]

Next up were the boarding steps. For some mysterious reason, the boarding steps had fallen out of the laser cut board and I could not find them. I constructed duplicates measuring off the plans and using some 1/16" scrap wood. The upper steps are slightly longer than the lower steps. The upper steps sit across the risers and the lower one fit into the risers.

 

[Rob444]

Test fitting the steps revealed a small gap between the riser and the waterway. This has been noted in other build logs.


Instead of putting in a shim, I sanded the part of the riser that fit against the wall, that closed up the gap nicely. I then painted the step green and glued it into place.

 

[Rob444]

Next I installed the gangway step plate and trail boards. They were all stained with a pecan stain and allowed to dry. The step plate and trail board were glued to the hull.


I was not happy with the thought of just attaching the other trail board with just glue. I thought it would not give good enough support. I drilled a small hole in the trail board and glued a small piece of wire. (Unfortunately this picture is a bit out of focus)



A small hole was drilled into the trail board and it was glued onto the pin and onto the step.


Hopefully this will produce a more solid bond to help prevent damage from my clumsy fingers.

 

[Rob444]

Next I assembled the boarding steps. The instructions mention using 1/64" thick strips. This is clearly an error. What they want is 1/32" strips that are 3/32, 1/16, and 1/32" wide.



You need 20 pieces of each. To get more uniform cuts, I used my Chopper that I originally made for scratch building styrene structures. It works very well with thin wood strips.



As recommended by the instructions, the strips were placed upon sticky tape to help ease construction. This really helped.


The other smaller strips had one side rounded before they were attached to the other strips

 

[Rob444]

Once each step was assembled it was taken off the sticky tape. The larger strip was also sanded and the steps reattached to the sticky tape to paint them.



The steps then received a coat of sanding sealer which was allowed to dry and a coat of white acrylic.

 

[Rob444]

The steps were installed on the side of the ship. If you notice I am using a fairly soft foam cradle to support the ship on its side. I believe doing it this way is much better than having the ship vertical. This particular foam was designed to cushion patient arms during surgery, but I am sure you can find similar form supports online.


The instructions have you set the bottom of the lowest step level with the bottom of the wale. I found it best to set the bottom about 1/32"below as you can see here. the instructions also have you use a 3/32" strip to space the steps (the upper strip above) I found a 1/16" (2/32) a better space and used that spacing. IT seemed to work out well.

 

[Rob444]

Gun port lids are done next. After cleaning them up the upper port lids have PE (photo etched) hinges glued onto them using CA glue. They were then painted white. The lids have predrilled holes when "ropes" used to raise and lower them are placed.

Lid ropes are simulated with the use of wire. The instructions would have you use 34 gauge wire. Unfortunately, as far as I can see, this wire is not supplied. However in my stash, I have magnet wire (very small gauge wire used to make electro magnets). This worked well. First I straightened the wire by using to pliers and slowly stretching the wire taught. This can be used for most wire to straighten them.

The wire was wound around a small drill bit with 2 free ends.

 

[Rob444]

The wire free ends were threaded through the holes in the upper lids and glued in place with CA. Excess wire was snipped off.

The lids were test fitted into place and the excess of the twisted portion of the wire was cut off. The twisted portion was placed into the hole of the "Eyebrow" and glued into place with CA.

The lower lids just had wire glued into the holes and then laid on the surface. They were then glued in place and the excess wire in the top snipped off past the gunports.

 

[Rob444]

The instructions would now have you do the cap rails that have the hammock stanchions and netting on it. These PE hammock stanchions are very delicate and I know I will be bumping and bending them into useless pieces of plastic and metal in no time. So while I may assemble them now I will not attach them until the end. Using 1/8 X 1/4" strip they want you to cut a double round profile on the outside facing surface. This is way above my abilities, so I just rounded the outside surface. Instead of 2, I made the cap rail twice as long to make it easier to handle. I drew the lines where they want the stanchions in mirror images going from the center. This, when cut, will produce 2 cap rails aligned the correct way port and starboard.





They want you to put eyebolts on the inside surface of the cap rail. I am not sure why these eyebolts are here. I don't see them used on the plans but they may be used for the rigging so I will include them, Beware one picture in the instructions shows them installed on the outer surface of the cap rail also, but I can find no evidence that they belong there. So using my trusty pin vise I drilled some holes in the inner side of the strip to attach eyebolts. I also made holes in the center od the top for the hammock stanchions.




After the eyebolts were in place I painted the cap rail black.

 

[Rob444]

The cap rail was cut to make the two appropriate sides. The hammock stanchions were then blackened wing brass black and glued into place.



It is now asked to use 34 gauge wire to thread through the extremely small stanchion holes. This wire was not included and I did not have any of that small size. I took a little while to think of how to do this. One option that I think would work well is to use EZ line. This is stretchable black line that I have used in the past for rigging and antennas on plastic ship models and airplanes. You can make it taut and glue it with CA. The small diameter line easily threads through the stanchion holes.



Another option would be the use of some fine suture material if you can get hold of it. What I am going to try to use is the inner stylet of some 26 gauge spinal needles.



The inner stylet threads through the holes of the stanchions and should hopefully provide some structural support.

 

[Rob444]

The small spinal needle stylets easily threaded through the holes of the hammock stanchions. I cut them longer than needed since they will be fitted on the ship later on.



A 1 x 4" piece of netting was cut from the material supplied and wrapped in a U shape around a piece of 1/8 X 1/4" strip. This was pressed down between the stanchions to make sure the netting got all the way to the bottom.



Using some thin CA glue, dabs were put along the stanchions and the stylet shaft to attach the netting to the stanchions. These were allowed to dry. The wood strip inside had plenty of room to move and did not become attached with the CA. After everything dried the wood strip was removed and using my favorite close work scissors, the excess netting was cut off.

 

[Rob444]

Making these hammock nettings and cap rails went much easier than I thought it would. They will be stored away until later on in the build.