Constitution Cross Section MS20245 Model Expo

[Rob444]

After painting the white stripe on the exterior wall, and letting the paint dry overnight, the masking tape was taken off and new tape put on to cover the white edge. the rest of the section was painted with two coats of black.

Once the paint dried the tape was removed. The thin area above the gun port that was not painted was touched up


The wales were also painted black.

 

[Smithy]

On this log I will be concentrating more on my mistakes, the other two logs give good instructions on how to do it correctly

Excellent idea. Much more entertaining that way.

 

[Rob444]

Before I aligned the inner and outer walls, I made sure that the gun port boxes I made would fit the inside gun ports. I had to do some trimming of the structuring using a knife to shave the wood. The instructions alluded that this would probably be necessary, and though a little "fiddlely" it was done. I was very happy that the interior and exterior gun port openings aligned well. Using a lot of wood glue I secured one of the exterior walls using a lot of clamps and a piece of wood held by rubber bands to secure the bottom.

 

[Rob444]

After gluing the exterior walls you can see the space between the interior and exterior walls that the gunport boxes will cover.



The spar deck gun ports easily fit into place. There are some small areas on the sides with noticeable spaces that I will fill in with filler, sand and paint.

The lower gun ports however proved a problem. Even though I fitted the gun ports into the inner walls, they would not fit easily into the bcombination of the inner and outer walls. In retrospect I should have tested them in the outer wall ports before I attached them. Using a sanding stick and a bit of carving I enlarged the ports to fit the boxes.


The lower gun port frames finally fit into place. I had to tap some if them in using a small hammer.

Looking at the inside of the spar deck it is obvious that the ports will have to be touched up. The instructions would have you construct all the interior "furniture" in place first before putting in the outer walls and gun ports. I believe doing the walls and ports first makes the construction process easier. It will definitely make the touch up of the port frames easier to do.

 

[icebiker3]

While waiting for that to dry, I started work on the orlop deck waterways (which for some reason are called scuppers). Both building logs I have read to help me with this build have complained that these pieces of wood are too curved. When I tried fitting them one fit rather well but the other had a bit of too much curve.

An angled cut had to be made on the waterways curving 1/16th inch from the top to a point on the bottom. I measured a number of points 1/16th inch along the top that will go against the wall. Then using my trusty #17 chisel blade, I used it as a plane and planed away the wood. When it was close to the angle I wanted I finished it off with sanding.

View attachment 492536 Then to make sure things fit well I soaked the waterways in hot water and clamped them in place overnight to help then achieve the correct curve.

I noticed that in the inst it showed the Orlop waterways on the frames, but in the drawings it shows them on the deck. I put mine on the deck, and the other pieces fit better.

 

[Rob444]

I noticed that in the inst it showed the Orlop waterways on the frames, but in the drawings it shows them on the deck. I put mine on the deck, and the other pieces fit better.

I agree that it is probably a good idea to set up the waterways on the orlop deck as you suggest! If you are building your cross section now I would strongly suggest you read the other build logs that I highlighted in the beginning of this log. They are very helpful!

 

[Rob444]

After the exterior walls were fitted I glued on the wales. Remember that there are port and Starboard wales so don't mix them up. To hold them while they were setting I used some rubber bands and strips of wood. To do touch up painting I use dental applicator brushes that are disposable and great for doing fine work such as fine paint application and gluing. The brush tip can be easily removed to give you a fine point for pin point application of whatever you want.

 

[Rob444]

I have decided not to put on any more fixtures onto the spar deck until the planking and coppering is done. To do those the ship must be turned upside down and I am famous for being clumsy and inadvertently breaking objects. After making sure nothing was loose on the other decks, I turned the ship over. The length of this cross section is 4 inches and the wood strip (1/16 X 3/16 inch strip) is 12 inched long. So carefully cutting each strip to 4 inch lengths will give you more than sufficient wood to cover the hull. This seemed to work out well. After each board was cut I chamfered one long edge abut against the board below as mentioned in the instructions and what I have done for previous builds. The boards were attached with PVA glue, modified binder clamps and spring clips are used to help hold the boards in place as the glue sets.. This seems to be working out well.

 

[Rob444]

As I was getting nearer the keel the support assembly was getting into the way of the binder clips used to hold down the planks, so I decided to remove the support structure. I used a razor saw and the procedure went well.


The frame came off easily and I smoothed the attachment points with my little nail drill sander, which is a wonderful device for quick sanding.


Taking that frame off was a small milestone in the building of this ship.

 

[Smithy]

milestone

Yay! Congratulations Rob.

 

[Rob444]

For some reason, no the port side the planing started to definitely have a "slope" to it. The right end being slightly lower than the left. Unfortunately I failed to take a good picture of this. It may have been the first plank set along the wale was possibly curved a little and higher when set on the left side. Regardless, I decided to correct it by raising the right side of two planks slightly before attaching them. I then used Elmers wood filler to fill the gaps. The gaps are small about 1/32 of an inch.






While waiting for the wood filler to dry. I fitted the garboard plank. I test fitted the plank and refined the rabbet a bit so it fit easier using a small file. The garboard plank was chamfered on the top (away from the rabbet) and fitted easily along the keel.

 

[Rob444]

Yay! Congratulations Rob.

Thank you!

 

[Rebus]

Rob, started reading your build log last night. I'm getting ready to do the Santisima Trinidad Cross section after my current build. A lot of helpful pieces for me. Going watch and take in all that you are showing to help me on my build even though it is a different ship.

 

[Rob444]

Rob, started reading your build log last night. I'm getting ready to do the Santisima Trinidad Cross section after my current build. A lot of helpful pieces for me. Going watch and take in all that you are showing to help me on my build even though it is a different ship.

Thank you! Good luck on your ship! I hope you start a build log so I can follow along.
Rob

 

[Rob444]

After putting 15 planks up from the wales and an additional plant from the garboard plank, a total of 5 planks on each side of the ship were trimmed 1/32" on one side as directed the thinner edge going to the stern. One was placed on the garboard side and the other 4 on the side with the 15 planks.


This left a large gap and no more 3/16inch planks. In the end they gave exactly how many 3/16 inch planks I needed. I did have other 3/16" from pervious builds but it was close! The final gap was closed by using a 1/16 X 7/16 board that was included. Both boards had to be trimmed a bit on one end to fit smoothly. I trimmed then sanded and test fitted a few times until it fit perfectly in place. it was then glued and clamped into place.


I then used Elmers wood filler and filled any larger gaps.


I used some very nice sanding blocks that are originally designed for manicures. You can buy them in bulk and they have assorted grits that are perfect for our needs.


After it was sanded smooth I brushed off all the sawdust I could and painted it with 2 coats of sanding sealer and will let it dry for a few hours.

 

[Rob444]

Started making the jig for the copper sheets as recommended in the instructions. I used dome foam board instead of the iron plate they suggested because I have foam board around. I covered the board with 3 layers of tape, with an untaped space where the copper tape goes.


I drew perpendicular line 7/8" apart as suggested.


I have started putting the copper on as strips instead of individual plates. I offset the rows 1/2 a plate. Does anyone foresee any problems with this approach? From a few inches away it is hard to discern much of anything other than copper with some tiny bumps.

 

[Rob444]

I am now making a few strips at a time and attaching them in groups alternating the spacing. I have the jig set up to make a few starting at a "plate" and then a few at half that distance.


I then attach a few at a time alternating them.


I overlap the strips by a very small amount and burnish them down with a big gum eraser which seems to work well.



I have to say that so far this is the least interesting part of the build.

 

[Rob444]

Added many more strips of copper and need to add about 1 more before I start the 3 layer copper belt.

 

[Rob444]

I placed another 1/8" strip of Tamyia tape next to the wale to make a 1/4" wide stripe in order to start the belting rows. The instructions would have you set a line up and cut off any copper tape the belting tape would go over. I decided to forgo that step and just cover any excess tape. When that was completed I could not really notice the overlap.



After 2 rows of belting you can notice the lay of the angles of the 2 sides is different. Why this difference exists, I am not sure. IT may be due to the difference on the hull shapes, my slight overlaps of the tape on the 2 sides, or more likely a combination of the two.


Finally both sides were completed.

 

[Kurt Konrath]

Pardon the pun, but on the cooper plating, I think you "Nailed it"