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D805 Piet Hein, ex HMS Serapis, WW2 S class destroyer

This ship really doesn’t want to leave the shipyard … started gluing the deckhouses and whatnot in place and -luckily in time - saw that the deck behind the bridge was severely warped. Oh well. Good opportunity to create an even nicer one .

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I created some supports and cheated a little with the shape: you cannot see them in the model once the lot is bonded together. So simple is best. Goal was to create sturdiness. Interesting times: it is rather a complex assembly. I will print the two deckhouse halves upside down, so that the actual deck will be smooth (I have a smooth print plate). The flash guard and the bridge will be done in resin. End of tomorrow or perhaps day after I'll show the results.

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I created some supports and cheated a little with the shape: you cannot see them in the model once the lot is bonded together. So simple is best. Goal was to create sturdiness. Interesting times: it is rather a complex assembly. I will print the two deckhouse halves upside down, so that the actual deck will be smooth (I have a smooth print plate). The flash guard and the bridge will be done in resin. End of tomorrow or perhaps day after I'll show the results.

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It's still fascinating how you continue to develop the parts, with trial and error improvements and the energy to create a new print, Marco.
Regards, Peter
 
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Do you use any self-locating features in your build? As soon as I neglect those, I run into problems of not being able to align parts properly. (This was also a huge pain in the, well wherever, for my Fokker DVII kit; limited to none locating features.)
 
Do you use any self-locating features in your build? As soon as I neglect those, I run into problems of not being able to align parts properly. (This was also a huge pain in the, well wherever, for my Fokker DVII kit; limited to none locating features.)
Partly, as having the flat surfaces on the print plate mostly prevent including self locators. But where possible, yes. And a few small strips of glued in styrofoam here and there help. But it’s a chore.

I tend to use slow curing super glue.
 
OK. That took a little longer than I expected. I’m sure that a professional 3D print shop would do better, but I’m happy. I had to use some filler to connect front to back, as I simply couldn’t get the connection tight enough during print.

The bridge is not yet glued in place, so those gaps between bridge and deckhouse and the latter to the deck requires some thought. I found a glue that also fills.

We’ll see.

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