<t>I was looking at the drawings of the HMS Blandford in the AOTS book. In the section represented by this build, there is a vertical scarf joint in the keel located right at the step of the main mast. It extends between frames 4 and 5. I think it would add interest to simulate that scarf joint and treenail both sides with 6 scale treenails. There are scarfs in the keelson at both ends of the model section, but since they end up as partial in this cross section, I think they are best ignored because they may look weird. I've enclosed a photo of the area in question with the scarf identified. I also show how I cut a simulated scarf into my Triton keel. That was before the treenails were added.<br/>
<t>The reason I left out the scarf joint was to simplify the drawing. If you look on page 39 of the book you will notice the framing in the book is different than our model. The book shows two double frames and a single frame sequence with chocks I felt this too much detail for a first scratch build. When you find other inconsistencies with book is for the above reason.<br/>
Zoltan has proposed a more advanced future build that will get into some very fine detail work.<br/>
This just arrived today! 2 big slabs of European beech! I'll use it for the keel, keelson and frames. I've never had the opportunity to work with European beech so this should be interesting. I looks like oak with small silver flecks in it, but is more tan with a touch of red in color. The grain is probably too pronounced for 1/64 or 1/48 scale, but should be fine at 1/32 or 1/24. It's time to make some sawdust!
I guess I assumed each frame would be build with overlapping futtocks, like real frames, but without the chocks. These slabs should be fine for that type of construction, or the Hahn style, where several smaller pieces of wood are glued in overlapping fashion to form a "U" and the frame is cut out whole from the "U" shaped piece.
Those are nice looking timbers and should be large enough for all the framing. The grain is not as open as you expect, I think you will like working with it, you are correct the frames will be using futtocks and consists of 14 pieces per frame. I finished drawing the frames today and will be checking everything tomorrow with Donnie. They should be ready to download Thursday.
Good catch, I don’t believe the sides would be a problem but there is A 1.9 degree rise in the keel notches starting at the center of frame 4 to the aft edge of frame 9 that needs to be shown on the drawings, I will use a thin green line for the bevels.
Hopefully making the keel a little taller and lowering the 4 upper jig supports will eliminate the need for beveling the notches to accept the frames. The second photo shows how far off the "lines" of the notches I stayed with the scroll saw. The notches will be custom fit to each frame with files for a nice snug fit.
I am going to also use European beech on my build. I was suggested a timber from my friends on SOS. The Cherry i saw was to rough for me to feel comfortable with and also to long to put in my car. European Beach is a nice looking timber and is affordable for me.
I finished cutting out all of the parts for the 9 frames. Each frame has 2 floors which have the notches that fit into the recesses on the keel. The first step was to file the notches smooth and get a nice fit. I used a piece of the blank I used to make the keel to fit the notches. Then the 2 floors for each frame were glued together while mounted on my piece of keel stock to keep the notches aligned. I used Glad-Wrap to prevent glueing the floors to the keel stock. All 9 floor assemblies were glued up. Next is to finish glueing up the remaining futtocks to create finished frames.
I use Weldbond - it's easy to dissolve with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and easy to scrape off the wood with an X-Acto blade so it won't block any stain penetration.
I don't use a sheet of glass, but rather tape the frame plan to a flat surface. A piece of melamine shelving works great. Once in place, I lay down Scotch double-sided tape over the frame outline. The first layer of the framing is laid down congruent with the plans and the tape holds each piece in place. I put a small drop of glue on the abutting surfaces of the first layer. When that is done, the second layer of the framing is glued to the top of the first layer with glue at all the butt joints also. I place a piece of plywood on the glued up frame and weight it down. The frames can come out in about an hour, but I wait overnight to remove the futtock templates and do any sanding.