Don Farr's Blandford Cross Section Build

more progress, spirkiting dry fitted using red gum, 1 coat of tung oil and one coat of wipe on poly, maybe need a second coat not sure, first exterior plank dry fitted out of cherry, next to install the items already made the bitts, elm pump and finsh up the gun carriages( NQUESTION ON THE GUNS I GOT MINE FROM THE LUMBERYARD I REALLY LIKE THE GUNS AS IS BUT WOULD LIKE TO DO A PROTECTION FROM SCRATCHES ANY BODY WITH IDEAS) picture tomorrow, now to install the rails made off model
 
Hi all, I am in a dilema right now and need some advice, I am using 3/16 inch for exterior planking tried the 1/8 inch but decided to go with the 3/16 did I make a mistake. THANKS Don
 
I'm not sure I understand your question, Don. For the 1/32 scale external planking, the plans specify each plank should be 1/16" thick and 9/32" wide. That's 9 scale inches wide, which is OK for the early-to-mid 18th century, but wider would be OK too. A plank 1/8 wide is too narrow...only 4 scale inches and 3/16" is only 6 scale inches wide. Where did you come up with those measurements?
 
Hi Doc, I have not got the faintest idea how I came up with the thickness dimension, my the sample plank that I used was 3/16 thick instead of 1/16 X 9/32 so my question is as I have just the top plank installed on both port and starboard side I can take them off i just thought a little thicker then 1/16 easier to work with, but no problem taking off the first plank that is the one that i cut for the gunports I think I showed a picture in my log how i fit it, WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE THICKNESS DIMENSION. Don
 
more progress pictures nearing completion and will give a recap in about a week from what i have learned,,,, showing the bitts in place the elm pump done in place (A THOUGHT ABOUT THE ELM PUMP I WOULD NEVER HAVE ATTEMPTED THIS A COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO) THIS IS MY PROGRESS,, also showing the exterior upper planking, glad to see these ugly frames diappear next the wales and amplanking all the way to the keel upper planking in cherry the lower planking will be boxwood and the wales american walnut,(ABOUT THE PLANKING NOTICE THE CHANGE FROM PREVIOUS POST TO THIS FOR SOME REASON I USED A 3/16 inch THICKNESS but with a explanation from DOC i changed it to 1/16 inch as the plans call for) finally showing the rail assemblies complete but not installed will be the last item to go on20190730_222739.jpg20190730_222236.jpg20190730_222136.jpg
 

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HI ALL PROGRESS BEING MADE, EXTERIOR PLANKING PORT AND STAR BOARD ( THANK THE LORD MY BADLY DONE FRAMES ARE COVERED) IT HAS 1 COAT OF TUNG OIL< WITH ANOTHER TO PUT ON WITH A COAT OF WIPE ON POLY, THE RAILS, FENDERS, PORT SILLS BALLAST PORTS ARE ALL DONE WAITING TO MOUNT ON MODEL AS WELL AS THE MAST, THE ONLY THING LEFT TO MAKE IS THE STEPS WICH COULD BE A PROBLEM FOR ME,,,,,ALSO THE UPPER PLANKS ARE CHERRY, THE WALES ARE AMERICAN WALNUT, THE LOWER PLANKS ARE BOXWOOD, AGAIN ALL COMMENTS APPRECIATED20190811_235254.jpg20190811_235254.jpg20190811_235657.jpg
 
Hi Don. Looking very good!. However, I wouldn't be honest, if I will not make my comments about the boxwood planking. It is possible, that the picture was taken from the bad angle. However, it looks like the planks are not even in thickness and made a 'clinker' appearance. Please take a look at my red arrows.
It can be corrected easy by sending planks and make them even.

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YES I AM GOING TO USE A SCRAPER THE REASON IS THE FRAMES SO I WILL BE SCRAPING THEM. Don
This is a good example of learning exercise....... for your next scratch built Rochefort project.
Prepare, cut and glue each single frame in correct way - less sanding of the outside of the frames after they are installed on the keel.
Take more time for the sanding of the frames in order to get a smooth surface for the hull-planking. Otherwise you get some bumps and gaps.
Otherwise you have to correct the hull surface latest with scraping and sanding of the planks.
This is learning by doing Thumbs-Up
 
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