Don Farr's Blandford Cross Section Build

Hi Mike, I do use AMOZON a lot but I like getting out, I get CABIN FEVER, I use to fight it but all the Drs said no so my DAUGHTER tore up my license sold my truck, and that was it, have come to accept it now it is what it is I GIVE THANKS FOR THE THINGS AND PEOPLE THAT I HAVE, and SHIP MODELING AND SOS ARE ITEMS THAT HAVE BECOME VERY IMPORTANT TO ME, and when i do get out it is all day, with many things to get done we also live in CONWAY SPRINGS WITCH IS 30 miles SOUTH WEST OF WITICHA. Don
 
more progress pictures finally after may do overs the main deck framing is done I have shown dryfitted the waterways 1/2 inch X 1/8 inch, the bitts, and the mast, a lot of work to be done on the mast that I have questions on, also on picture No. 4503 showing a section wiped in mineral spirits as per Doc BLAKE and Jim, suprising me that there is not to much scraping and sanding left, now to me the crtical part is the finish I can not find Jims thread on using oil and need his answer on DANISH OIL OR TUNG OIL, and should I wait to do the finish until the decking is done, the main deck turned out much, much better then the lower deck that is progress

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Hi Don, I can echo what Mike said: It is much improved and looks great. Now, with the oil finish. Usually, as the rule, you will put oil the last. However, there could be places where you will not have access after work is done, Therefore, those places will need to be treated with oil first. Another rule is - don't treat the surface with oil if you need to glue parts on it!

1. Before you put oil, make sure the surface is free of dust. If you have compressed air can blow away carefully. If you don't have can no biggie, I use a syringe (took the trick from watchmaker).
2. Once the surface is clean from dust, you can put oil either with a soft paintbrush or piece of cloth. Dont'worry put too much, as long as it is not dripped on the floor. Wait for 15 minutes, and using dry cloth wipe left oil completely. Now the hardest part: wait 48+ hours until it is completely dry.
3. Once it is completely dry, observe the surface and see if it even. If not use 1000 grit sandpaper to make it even. Repeat the oiling process again.
4. Make sure the surface completely dry after another coat of oil.
5. Once you have done with oils, use steelwool 0000 (4 zeros) grit to make the surface even and flat.

That should be it, my friend
 
Hi Don,

Neither of the Danish nor Tung oils is natural, they are blends. This doesn't mean they are not good. They are made equally the same technology but will give you different color once completed. I recommend you to use a scrap of wood, to try both oils on the same wood. Once completely dry compare and choose what you like. I think Tung oils gets darker once dried. I love Linseed oil, it is natural.
 
Thanks Jim, that is exactly what I am going to do, I still have not made up my mind as to the decking, origanly was going to use HOLLY, but discovered RED GUM love the color but will try both the danish and the tung oils, and where can you get LINSEED OIL. AGAIN THANKS Don
 
OK GUYS, Back on my Blandford and Phildelphia Gun boat doing a little work while the tung oil is drying on my flatie, now question on the main deck spirkiting the BOM calls for 1/2 inch X 5/32 inch, plans call for 1 piece 3/8 inch X 5/64 inch and 1 piece 1/4 inch X 3/64 inch, AM I CORRECT IN GOING WITH THE PLANS. Don
 
Hi Don,
I kinda cheated here to fit my model. Both planks are 5/64 thick. The first plank is close to 3/8 wide, that width took the plank to the top of the gun port sills. The second plank is cut to the width to the top of the frames. Hope this makes sense. Like Mike said who will know but you.

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Hey Don,
The fore gun port is 15/32 from top of Frame to the bottom of the gun port sill. The aft port is 17/32. So cutting to the dashed line is your rough opening. The solid line is your port opening after you frame it.
This put me at 3/8 from the top of waterways to the top of port sill on both gun ports.

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Thanks Mike, BIG, BIG, HELP, now for my dimensions, FROM TOP OF WATERWAY TO TOP OF FRAME IS 1/2 INCH is that enough for the gunports I may have made a BIG MISTAKE all the TOP OF FRAMES ARE 1/2 inch from top of waterway to top of frame, if that is OK and I need a little more room then the 1/2 inch I can thickness sand a little on the waterway and fudge a little on the 3/8 inch dimension, OH BOY HOPE I DID NOT SCREW UP TO BADLY. THANKS Don
 
Hi Don,
I was just thinking of the text I left for you last. I also Meant to say we are our own worst critic’s. Most of my friends don’t build ships. When they look at my work they are amazed. I however can see every little flaw.
 
Don Dave is right. It’s all about fitting to your model now. You should be fine. By the time you put on the planksheer rail and waistrail your openings should ok.
Even the best builders have error creep up on them during the build. Now you just adjust for it.
 
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