Duyfken 1/50 scale - Kolderstock

AAAHHHH!!!! Now we are talking! ROTF I can already smell that fresh Kolderstok wood. My friend, this is a special occasion and one where you will have to endure me. I will be there for the whole ride and I will share everything I know. First tip - GLUE!

420002-adeziv-de-interior-pentru-lemn-bison-wood-glue-d2.jpg

Try your best to get this - just make sure it is D2 . The glue must NOT be waterproof.
 
Heinrich said:
AAAHHHH!!!! Now we are talking! ROTF I can already smell that fresh Kolderstok wood. My friend, this is a special occasion and one where you will have to endure me. I will be there for the whole ride and I will share everything I know. First tip - GLUE!

View attachment 201291

Try your best to get this - just make sure it is D2 . The glue must NOT be waterproof.
Click to expand...

Hi Heinrich,

I’ll try to find the glue, if you recommend it then it must be a good product :D:D. Alas, somewhere in my little workshops lurks the plank bender head. It’s like the the other bits that fall and bounce once and then disappear forever.

Jan

Jan
 
Jan, I don't use that glue, because I can't get it in China. However, by far the majority of Dutch modelers on modelbouwforum.nl use it and swear by it. The reason I recommend the NOT Waterproof one, is simply in the case of an "oops" moment when the glue can be loosened with water.
 
Hi Heinrich,

First question.

Removing the bulkheads. Is there any special method for cutting through the tabs left behind by the laser? At 6mm thick they are much more robust than ones from my other builds and I don’t want to force anything.

Second question.

Char removal. Remove the char from the false keel and the insert portion of the bulkheads before gluing?Remove the char from the exterior of the bulkheads or wait and do that at fairing?

Jan
 
ROTF ROTF ROTF Robust is the word - welcome to "Blood and Thunder Building"! Stanley knife/box cutter will do the trick after repeated cuts. Take your time - and cut from both sides. As far as sanding goes - only sand smooth the little nibs where parts were attached to the wooden sheeting. Do not touch the char - it will be of great help during the fairing of the bulkheads to show you the developing hull line.
 
Heinrich said:
ROTF ROTF ROTF Robust is the word - welcome to "Blood and Thunder Building"! Stanley knife/box cutter will do the trick after repeated cuts. Take your time - and cut from both sides. As far as sanding goes - only sand smooth the little nibs where parts were attached to the wooden sheeting. Do not touch the char - it will be of great help during the fairing of the bulkheads to show you the developing hull line.
Click to expand...
ThumbsupThumbsupExcellent, that is good to know. I’ll have to rummage through my scrap pile and find material for a suitable build cradle.
Just checked Amazon. They have Bison D3 wood glue, but I couldn’t find the D2 version. I’ll do a wider search later.

Jan
 
I NEED TO FIND A GLUE THAT I CAN REMOVE RESIDUE, I USED WATCO ON MY LEUDO, BUT VERY BLOTCHY BECAUSE OF GLUE I WAS AFRAID TO SAND TO MUCH FOR FEAR OF GOING THROUGH PLANKS I TRIED VERY HARD TO WIPE OFF GLUE AFTER USING SOLDERING IRON REALLY WIPED IT DOWN, WILL THIS HELP. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
 
Hi Don. The reason I mentioned this glue is because it is very "compatible" with the wood used in the Kolderstok kit. I have no idea whether it will result in a "cleaner" build. The glue that I use is cheap Chinese PVA which works brilliantly on everything! If I could have exported that glue, I would have!
 
The first casualty:

One of the "horns" on bulkhead #5 broke when I cut it out. I didn't notice that the laser cut was not clean through.


2E3C076F-93E0-4075-ACF8-59D4D797C6C7.jpeg

A quick fix with a bit of glue and a temporary clamp. I'm just slipping the bulkheads into the keel. Nothing permanent yet. Just couldn't resist working on the little ship.

Jan
 
Those frame extensions require great care. You can now feel like a real accomplished Dutch model ship builder. Breaking a number of them is "compulsory" for being initiated! ROTF Welcome! Thumbsup
 
Another dry fit:

I managed to separate all the other “frames/bulkheads” and place them in theit proper slots.

6C81D100-2688-417D-BEAA-EC2224071D7A.jpeg
I’m happy to note that I didn’t ”damage” any more pieces. Only the stern ”frame/bulkheads” is left to cut out. That one requires more work before it’s added to the false keel.

Jan
 
Hi Jan

This is what I meant by 90-degree L-shaped aluminum clamps mounted perpendicular and two-two opposite each other with just enough of a gap for the keel to slide into.

6C81D100-2688-417D-BEAA-EC2224071D7A.jpg
It costs nothing and with 3 or 4 of those in place, the keel won't budge. (Please excuse the very roughly-drawn illustration).
 
Hello Heinrich,

Heinrich said:
Hi Jan

This is what I meant by 90-degree L-shaped aluminum clamps mounted perpendicular and two-two opposite each other with just enough of a gap for the keel to slide into.

View attachment 201531
It costs nothing and with 3 or 4 of those in place, the keel won't budge. (Please excuse the very roughly-drawn illustration).
Click to expand...
That method is certainly worth a try.

Jan
 
C75DF1C4-2D95-4F45-A721-2E591C35E457.jpeg

This gives me a good idea for what I need as a jig to hold the keel. Thanks Heinrich, your "post" was a great help. This setup is fairly stable but working with magnets is a "NO, NO" for me. So I'll definitely have to limit my work with this setup. But the the little ship or should I say the "Little Dove" is a magnet also. I'm really looking forward to this build.

Jan
 
OK MY 2 CENTS WHAT WORKS FOR ME IN THIS SITUATION AND BY NO MEANS AT MY SKILL LEVEL SAYING THIS IS THE WAY BUT FOR ME IT WORKS I TAK A PIECE OF SCRAP WOOD THE LENTGTH OF THE MODEL AND TACK GLUE IT, IT IS VERY EASY TO TAKE APART WHEN FINISHED WIT ABSOLUTLY NO DAMAGE AT ALL THE I HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO PLACE ALL BULKHEADS TO HOW THEY BELONG YOU CAN THEN PUT IT ON A BUILDING BOARD OR A VICE, I DO NOT LIKE THE VICE, THIS WORKS FOR ME QUITE WELL. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
 
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