Duyfken 1/50 scale - Kolderstock

86670DA1-5AFA-48A6-ABCA-32D4D77B2EF7.jpeg

I don’t know if it’s right or wrong, but I’m installing the deck one side at a time. The camera angle is bad but you can see the planking guidelines as well as the guide lines to align the deck.

889D1D74-9C2E-4DC6-B013-185D3DCA3188.jpeg

Sometimes necessity provides an answer to another problem. Two rubber bands and two page clips and viola you have a temporary keel jig.

Jan

 
Big clamps, little clamps:

The little clamps came in handy to hold the edges of the deck while glueing them to frames . The next step is to insert the the other deck halves and repeat the glue and clamp routine. Then the the hull will be set aside for a day or so to let the glue set.

I also have to do a “re-do” on frame #1, I hadn’t noticed that it wasn’t square on the keel.

5C882ECB-A26F-4517-B9E9-DD8752BC37D5.jpeg

Jan
 
Hello Jan - Loosen Frame #1 right now if at all possible - before the glue really sets. Just soak the glue lines with water (hoping that you didn't use waterproof PVA ( hence the Bison D2 recommendation - remember :))
 
Heinrich said:
Hello Jan - Loosen Frame #1 right now if at all possible - before the glue really sets. Just soak the glue lines with water (hoping that you didn't use waterproof PVA ( hence the Bison D2 recommendation - remember :))
Click to expand...
Hi Heinrich.

Frame #1 is glued in with Titebond II. It’s only attached to the keel so I don’t anticipate any problems making that fix.

103D544B-D389-49F6-A9E2-D62A1BBB6AE4.jpeg

When frame #1 is square to the keel I’ll add the bow filler pieces and fair the frames. But once again were at 28F and in middle of snow squalls So no outside sanding. The rest of the week is forecast sunny with temperatures in the low 40’s.

Jan

Jan
 
TechTrek said:
Is it just me or does this look warped? Optical illusion?
Click to expand...
I think there is a bit more distortion with the photo angle. I’ve been using my iPad to take the pictures and the front to back type pictures aren‘t the best.

9BF50949-67F0-4F3A-A0D6-8E88BC97667C.jpeg

The parallel lines on the deck also look odd. Frame #1 is a bit off, but that’s an easy fix.

Jan
 
Pathfinder65 said:
I think there is a bit more distortion with the photo angle. I’ve been using my iPad to take the pictures and the front to back type pictures aren‘t the best.

View attachment 203623

The parallel lines on the deck also look odd. Frame #1 is a bit off, but that’s an easy fix.

Jan
Click to expand...
You’re right the parallel lines look curved.
 
The "Do Over":

In the post above I've shown Frame #1 is a little askew. This morning I removed it and will reset it later.

But I'd like to share two items.

1) Placing and glueing the deck, I think that would be a lot easier if Frames 1 and 12 were added to the keel after the deck is laid. That way the ends of the deck could be positioned better and then clamped while being glued in.

2) The merits of PVA water soluble glue. I was going to brush hot water on both sides of Frame #1 to loosen it. That process has worked in the past. I noticed this morning that when I cleaned the glue from my metal hobby plate that the Rubbing Alcohol I was using did a great job. So I switched gears temporarily and brushed several heavy coats of Rubbing Alcohol (91% Isopropyl Alcohol) on the joints holding Frame #1 to the keel.

D87A1C5D-92BD-4D13-A296-70DC90DF7D75.jpeg

It didn't take very long and the frame came right off. I've no idea of the pros and cons for this method, but for me it provided the result was looking for.

Jan
 
Last edited:
Pathfinder65 said:
The "Do Over":

In the post above I've shown Frame #1 is a little askew. This morning I removed it and will reset it later.

But I'd like to share two items.

1) Placing and glueing the deck, I think that would be a lot easier if Frames 1 and 12 were added to the keel after the deck is laid. That way the ends of the deck could be positioned better and then clamped while being glued in.

2) The merits of PVA water soluble glue. I was going to brush hot water on both sides of Frame #1 to loosen it. That process has worked in the past. I noticed this morning that when I cleaned the glue from my metal hobby plate that the Rubbing Alcohol I was using did a great job. So I switched gears temporarily and brushed several heavy coats of Rubbing Alcohol (91% Isopropyl Alcohol) on the joints holding Frame #1 to the keel.

View attachment 203761

It didn't take very long and the frame came right off. I've no idea of the pros and cons for this method, but for me it provided the resultI was looking for.

Jan
Click to expand...
I think you did a great job and I don’t believe the alcohol will prevent future glue form adhering.
 
New Tool:

My new tool came Monday:

ACEA5B94-061A-416B-B507-48E1D85555F8.jpeg

I've put it in service for the last couple of days to finish the stern frame.

6F1454F4-4B02-43F0-A293-ECB649D5BEE9.jpeg

The planks on bottom of the frame are 30 and 60 degree cuts, the top portion are cut at 45 degrees. The tool was great aid in making repeated cuts.

Jan
 
I can certainly use a tool like that. It would have made the bracing on the bulwarks SO much easier. Ah well ... maybe on the 7P.
 
Hi Jan,
I'd love to learn how that cutting tool holds up over time. I looked at it once.
On my 1:65 Vasa the gun ports were 10x10 with a liner then added to the porthole. Not sure if that is helpful but...
 
Kolderstok said:
Ehh - I had to measure them myself too, as this is something which is not complete clear in the instructions :(

They are a little bit smaller than the ones in the bulwarks, 8 x 8 mm or evt. 9 x 9 mm
Click to expand...
Hi Hans,

Excellent, I think I'll go with the 8 X 8 mm. I think smaller would look better.

BTW, I'm having a great time with the kit.

Jan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top