H.M.S. PEGASUS - Swan Class by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert Scale 1:36

I started fixing the whole aft part.
I have encountered considerable difficulties in getting everything to fit together! And that's only half the job!

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This is one of the most complex structures of such a ship model - One project inside the project - and when every thing of the stern structure is finished you can open one good bottle of wine Thumbsup
You are on a good way to win this small battle with the stern
 
Welcome to this wonderful practium. If you are interested i have 72 videos on my build of the Swan HMS Thorn. It is the best build i ever undertook in my modeling career and has leap frogged my skill level. Good luck. Kevin
Thanks Kevin!
I know your work and your videos very well! I have seen and reviewed them many times and it is also thanks to you that I have chosen to build this model!
 
You are making very good progress

Just realized, that the notches for the upper and lower cills or lintel of the gunport openings have different form
52.jpg

and I am a little bit surprised about the oriantation of the upper ones (red) - Usually I would think, that they would be mirrored like the green ones. From the static point of view it would make more sense

also contemporary models and drawings are showing them differently
l0367_001.jpg l2335_001 (1).jpg l2377_002.jpg

I never realised that Antscherl is showing this detail differently in his drawings ..... interesting

Are you planing to make the gunport openings parallel with the framing, or all gunports later in one step when the framing of the hull is finished?
 
You are making very good progress

Just realized, that the notches for the upper and lower cills or lintel of the gunport openings have different form
View attachment 238945

and I am a little bit surprised about the oriantation of the upper ones (red) - Usually I would think, that they would be mirrored like the green ones. From the static point of view it would make more sense

also contemporary models and drawings are showing them differently
View attachment 238947 View attachment 238948 View attachment 238949

I never realised that Antscherl is showing this detail differently in his drawings ..... interesting

Are you planing to make the gunport openings parallel with the framing, or all gunports later in one step when the framing of the hull is finished?
I found an answer on my first comment with a contemporary frame disposition drawing of HMS Pegasus at the NMM.
It is showing the notches like Antscherl - I think it is in the same way slightly visible.... So it seem, that on these sloops the weight of the top timber laying on top the upper lintel / cill was not so high

j7503.jpg



Are you planing to make the gunport openings parallel with the framing, or all gunports later in one step when the framing of the hull is finished?
 
You are making very good progress

Just realized, that the notches for the upper and lower cills or lintel of the gunport openings have different form
View attachment 238945

and I am a little bit surprised about the oriantation of the upper ones (red) - Usually I would think, that they would be mirrored like the green ones. From the static point of view it would make more sense

also contemporary models and drawings are showing them differently
View attachment 238947 View attachment 238948 View attachment 238949

I never realised that Antscherl is showing this detail differently in his drawings ..... interesting

Are you planing to make the gunport openings parallel with the framing, or all gunports later in one step when the framing of the hull is finished?

I think I saw Giampy65 variant an a HMS Bellona modell. ;)

Bellona 20210615.jpg
 
Stai pianificando di rendere le aperture dei cannoniere parallele all'inquadratura, o tutti i cannonieri in un unico passaggio quando l'inquadratura dello scafo è terminata?
Stavo per pubblicare lo stesso disegno originale del museo ma mi hai preceduto!
Sono molto indeciso: inizialmente avevo pensato di fare le aperture alla fine; con questo metodo però è molto più semplice realizzare le giunture. Bisogna però essere estremamente precisi con le misure....
Proverò a farne un altro e poi deciderò!

I was about to publish the same original drawing from the museum but you preceded me!
I am very undecided: initially I had thought of making the openings at the end; with this method, however, it is much easier to make the joints. However, we must be extremely precise with the measurements ....
I'll try to make another one and then I'll decide!
 
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Are you planing to make the gunport openings parallel with the framing, or all gunports later in one step when the framing of the hull is finished?

I was about to publish the same original drawing of the museum but you preceded me!
I am very undecided: initially I had thought of making the openings at the end; with this method, however, it is much easier to make the joints. However, we must be extremely precise with the measurements ....
I'll try to do another one and then I'll decide!
 
The work seems to be going well, even for all the measurements that I look at at least three times before operating ....
I have finished the arrangement of the fore cant frames. The arrangement of the fore cant frame n. 11 is very particular because it has a cast timber:

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Wonderful and very fast work. Since there is no jig/building berth, how do you ensure symmetry of cant frames? I read in Antscherl's books about using square machinists frames, but how does that work with oversized frames, even slightly? Thanks.
 
you have to be very precise in making the right angle at the base of the foot of each frame. then, just align the frame to the references on the table drawing...
Thanks for the prompt response. I got the angle part. The frame alignment is what bothers me. If the reference line on the building board is the actual one, do you have to cut the frame exactly to the pattern (no room for fairing in this case?) or just ensure that the point on frame and reference line coincide? Sorry to bother you with these silly questions. Great work as always.
 
Thanks for the prompt response. I got the angle part. The frame alignment is what bothers me. If the reference line on the building board is the actual one, do you have to cut the frame exactly to the pattern (no room for fairing in this case?) or just ensure that the point on frame and reference line coincide? Sorry to bother you with these silly questions. Great work as always.
in general, I leave a minimum of wood, but not too much: so just simply make sure that the point on frame coincides with the reference line.
With a little experience and vision of the lines and shapes, it is also possible to take the frames already set as a reference
 
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