H.M.S. PEGASUS - Swan Class by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert Scale 1:36

[Giampy65]

Are those milled from a dowel? Holes into end grain?

of course...!

 

[Giampy65]

Continue:

 

[Giampy65]

 

[Philski]

You could always 3D print them huh?

 

[GrantTyler]

You could always 3D print them huh?View attachment 484750

Nice Phil! I 3D printed mine on my Bounty and while they came out really nice they do loose the authenticity of wooden deadeyes like these made here - imho. Cheers Grant

 

[Giampy65]

You could always 3D print them huh?

admiralty modelling has its own rules and is based on the splendid models of the time: wood where there was wood, metal where there was metal. I try to stick to this basic philosophy, but everyone is free to use the materials they like.

 

[Philski]

Nice Phil! I 3D printed mine on my Bounty and while they came out really nice they do loose the authenticity of wooden deadeyes like these made here - imho. Cheers Grant

I've made my share from wood too. They are very tedious to make. It would be easy to slice dowels and just drill into the end grain but that betrays the strength needed for deadeyes and cutting them cross-grained takes so much time. Then they have to be drilled and notched all around. But you are correct, wood looks a lot more authentic and I have yet to use any of the printed versions. They still have to be painted to simulate the wood they emulate. It's all fun to me!

 

[Roger Pellett]

Here’s a handy tool for cutting stock for larger scale deadeyes. Chucked up in my drill press, it cuts a 3/8” diameter plug 1-1/2” long. It cuts cross grain so is properly oriented. I used pear wood, but a hard wood like maple would work too. The plug is then chucked in the lathe, turned to the proper diameter and parted off. The edges can be chamfered or rounded off in the lathe too.

At the, risk of heresy I have found the mark-1 eyeball works surprisingly well for marking out the three holes.

Roger

 

[Philski]

Here’s a handy tool for cutting stock for larger scale deadeyes. Chucked up in my drill press, it cuts a 3/8” diameter plug 1-1/2” long. It cuts cross grain so is properly oriented. I used pear wood, but a hard wood like maple would work too. The plug is then chucked in the lathe, turned to the proper diameter and parted off. The edges can be chamfered or rounded off in the lathe too.

At the, risk of heresy I have found the mark-1 eyeball works surprisingly well for marking out the three holes.

Roger

View attachment 485270

Plug cutter. I have a slew of them. There also small toothed cutters used to remove screws too. The problem I have is having to cut dozens and dozens. I'd rather buy them.

 

[Philski]

Plug cutter. I have a slew of them. There also small toothed cutters used to remove screws too. The problem I have is having to cut dozens and dozens. I'd rather buy them.

These work fairly well but care needs to be taken. (available in different sizes)

 

[Roger Pellett]

I have a selection of plug cutters from wooden boat projects but the plugs that they cut are too short to be effectively chucked in my lathe. The 1-1/2” long plug that this plug cutter cuts can be chucked securely and a good number of deadeyes parted off. The window above the cutting teeth makes the cut plug easy to remove.

 

[Giampy65]

I continue with the long work on the preventer plates: I thought I would take a photographic step-by-step that I hope will be useful:

I used ordinary 1 mm brass wire:

 

[Giampy65]

After preparing the part, it is necessary to weld:

 

[Hoss6262]

The details in your work and precision in the execution are just Master class. Working with Ebony makes it just that much more impressive.

 

[Tobias]

Good morning Ricci,
thank you for this lovely step-by-step explanation. For me personally, these explanations are always important.

Ps: It was a pleasure to meet you and Tizi in person and to see your models in real life.

 

[Giampy65]

Thank you, dear fiends!

 

[AllanKP69]

Ps: It was a pleasure to meet you and Tizi in person and to see your models in real life.

I would love to meet up with you guys and Tiziano Mainardi for lunch one day. The discussions would be lively over a few (maybe more than a few) glasses of wine. I will be in Livorno again next September for two days...... If you are ever in SW Florida, know that you are most welcome to our home.
Allan

 

[Giampy65]

I would love to meet up with you guys and Tiziano Mainardi for lunch one day. The discussions would be lively over a few (maybe more than a few) glasses of wine. I will be in Livorno again next September for two days...... If you are ever in SW Florida, know that you are most welcome to our home.
Allan

thank you Allan!
I hope one day not too far away, to finally cross the Atlantic and visit the USA to admire those places we can only see from too far away.......

 

[Giampy65]

I am sharing a video I made for those interested in small metal welding. Following some tutorials and videos, I built myself a resistance welder; it is a type of welder that they use mainly in model railways, where it is necessary to make many close welds. This type of soldering iron uses a 10 Ah transformer with 3-6V outputs and has the advantage that it heats, by means of a small graphite electrode and a ground wire, exactly the spot where the soldering is to take place for just a few seconds; this means that you can also make close-set soldering joints without running the risk of desoldering those previously made. Various types of tips can be used, including a ‘clamp’ system, which is very useful when parts to be soldered must be held together. Everything else is self-made and I must say that I am very satisfied with the results!

 

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Thanks for sharing this video with us. It's very helpful.