Hayling 1760 - Model Ship Dockyard - Pear

Hi Colin. I can live with no instructions or incomplete instructions, but I feel your pain when it comes to wrong instructions. Glad to see that you have solved the issue.
 
I'm trying one of kits these as well but got stuck at an earlier point than what you've done. When building the cradle I didn't see that the two pieces labeled A3 were slightly different. The taller one should go in the stern and the shorter in the bow. But I thought they were the same piece, so got them reversed. However it looks like the critical thing is that pieces A4 and A5 fit into the sides, A2, properly. As long as I do that things should be OK. It'll just mean altering the front end of A4 it fits flat on A2.
 
Help. I have now got on to frames6,7,8. These are the first ones that need sanding to a profile/sanding lines. So, take the "lower" 3 parts ( left & right, and a center piece that joins the previous 2) all 3 have lines etched on them. Thing is, how do you glue them together? do the edges go together and then you sand to a line, but doing that you lose one of the etched lines. Or, do you glue them so that the center piece touches the etched line of the 2 parts? as in photo. Just want tyo make sure before I go any further.

View attachment 327619
Like you showed in this photo it was correct how the frame elements have to be positioned
Frame 9 query.jpg

I tried to make a sketch showing a tcpical double frame
green are the two framw element, so f.e. two futtocks
red are the laser lines on the elements
blue are the final edges of the finished sanded frame, when you follow the red laser marked sanding lines

Unbenannt.JPG
 
Like you showed in this photo it was correct how the frame elements have to be positioned
View attachment 328182

I tried to make a sketch showing a tcpical double frame
green are the two framw element, so f.e. two futtocks
red are the laser lines on the elements
blue are the final edges of the finished sanded frame, when you follow the red laser marked sanding lines

View attachment 328183
Oh NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I asked Victor how to do this and think I may have interpreted his answer wrong. I have ended up putting the 2 layers on top of each other, with the edges flush, with the etched marks facing out. I did do 3 the way you have shown, but that didnt seem to work out either. I am now up to frame 15, with all edges flush.
 
Oh NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I asked Victor how to do this and think I may have interpreted his answer wrong. I have ended up putting the 2 layers on top of each other, with the edges flush, with the etched marks facing out. I did do 3 the way you have shown, but that didnt seem to work out either. I am now up to frame 15, with all edges flush.
I hope, that I did not misinterprete your photo

You have to check this with the drawings where the sanding lines are also shown.
Check the width of parts and compare with the lines on the drawings

The top or the lower system
On the top the parts are smaller and have usually on both sides the laser lines
On the bottom they are wider and have only on one side a laser line

Unbenannt.jpg
 
I hope, that I did not misinterprete your photo

You have to check this with the drawings where the sanding lines are also shown.
Check the width of parts and compare with the lines on the drawings

The top or the lower system
On the top the parts are smaller and have usually on both sides the laser lines
On the bottom they are wider and have only on one side a laser line

View attachment 328448
Hello Uwek, thank you for taking the time to help. I am now pretty sure that the lower of your sketches is the correct way. However I shall proceed with caution and check a bit more carefully in future.
 
My fingers were getting kind of sore and achey from holding the frames. Due to the change in thickness I didnt want to put them in a vice, so I came up with this anvil, It certainly helps and has made sanding easier, especially on the exterior. Just a piece of junk wood, tapered with a stop on the top and on the ends.

20220915_152303.jpg
 
Hi Colin, I have been watching you log and have been wondering if a small stepped jig the same width as the slot in the frame that fits into the keel came with your kit? There should be a rise of about 2mm. If so then you would put the 'b' frame in the lower part of the slot and the 'a' frame in the higher section, at least that is how it works with MSD'S Blandford kit. Hard to explain but these pic's might help.

IMG_20220916_102752.jpg2mm stepIMG_20220916_102816.jpg

I have been putting the sections with both etched sides facing out so that they can be sanded to the visible fairing lines. Cheers JJ..
 
Hi Colin, I have been watching you log and have been wondering if a small stepped jig the same width as the slot in the frame that fits into the keel came with your kit? There should be a rise of about 2mm. If so then you would put the 'b' frame in the lower part of the slot and the 'a' frame in the higher section, at least that is how it works with MSD'S Blandford kit. Hard to explain but these pic's might help.

View attachment 328646View attachment 328647View attachment 328648

I have been putting the sections with both etched sides facing out so that they can be sanded to the visible fairing lines. Cheers JJ..
I haven't found any such jig, however I did knock one up for myself, just a piece of scrap the right thickness to suit the keel. It just lines up the center and the 2 Left & Right sections
 
Hi all. Finished the "centre" frames, reasonably happy, but as my report cards from the distant past used to say "could do better". I have some small wire brushes that fit in to my mini drill, antiquated Black & decker" hobby drill, great to use but now sounds like a bucket of bolts. Could do with replacing it, any suggestions? Now I am on to the stern frames. These are a total pain as they are in 2 halves which I find very difficult to hold whilst sanding. May go over to Super glue for these half frames as there is no way to clamp them in place whilst the white glue I am using sets.
I hadnt quite appreciated the amount of repetitive work required and I have really slowed down.
Not all my frames are coming out the to the same level at the tops (sheerline?), but hopefully I can/will sort this out later.

20220927_164826.jpg
 
Hi Colin, I am a bit ahead of you and when it came to profiling those bow and stern 1/2 frames, I bought this from Amazon. It feels like it's built as well as the much more expensive Dremel cordless. It made light work of the sanding but you will need to get lots of the largest sanding drums and a box of face masks 'cos it don't half make a lot of dust.

SabreCut CraftMate SCMG002UK Lithium Ion 10.8v Cordless Rotary Tool Multipurpose with 42 Accessories Included​

Good work BTW. Mine is also of the 'could do better' but I'm persevering with it.
Cheers
 
Hi Colin, I am a bit ahead of you and when it came to profiling those bow and stern 1/2 frames, I bought this from Amazon. It feels like it's built as well as the much more expensive Dremel cordless. It made light work of the sanding but you will need to get lots of the largest sanding drums and a box of face masks 'cos it don't half make a lot of dust.

SabreCut CraftMate SCMG002UK Lithium Ion 10.8v Cordless Rotary Tool Multipurpose with 42 Accessories Included​

Good work BTW. Mine is also of the 'could do better' but I'm persevering with it.
Cheers
So which bit do you use?
I haver a selection of "mini" drum sanders but found them to be rather aggressive, care needed. I learnt (or didn't) the hard way. ! slightly mullered frame!

As for new mini drill I am looking at the Proxxen. I have had many "cheap" mini drills and they have all not been too good.
 
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So which bit do you use?
I haver a selection of "mini" drum sanders but found them to be rather aggressive, care needed. I learnt (or didn't) the hard way. ! slightly mullered frame!

As for new mini drill I am looking at the Proxxen. I have had many "cheap" mini drills and they have all not been too good.
I didn't use a drill bit, just the sanding drums. I know exactly what you mean by 'aggressive' - especially the 80 and 120 grits but I've found some 240's which are a lot less evil.
Cheers
 
Greetings Tom, We would like to see the progress of your Hoy assembly in a build log. How about that? Is it feasible? Thank you in advance,
Hi Jim, you do realise that I'm the worlds worst when it comes to remembering to take photos and post updates? I will though, start a build log soon - and cross fingers I keep it up to date. :) Thumbsup
Cheers
 
Hi Jim, you do realise that I'm the worlds worst when it comes to remembering to take photos and post updates? I will though, start a build log soon - and cross fingers I keep it up to date. :) Thumbsup
Cheers
many thanks for accepting the offer, but don't worry if you forget to post in a timely manner, we will remind you :p
 
Hi All, Progress has been just a tad on the slow/boring side , but thankfully all done!!!!!! Except, the eagle eyed amongst you may have noticed that there is a weird gap on the bow. Its at A4/A5, somehow it looks as if I have shaped A4 wrong. Hey Ho, plan on reshaping it once its out the jig.
20221027_134043.jpg20221027_134056.jpg20221027_134107.jpg
 
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