HIGH HOPES, WILD MEN AND THE DEVIL’S JAW - Willem Barentsz Kolderstok 1:50

I’ve used water based finishes in the past. Especially the MinWax product. My objection to this finish (at least regarding model ships) is that it makes the wood look “cold”…sterile and uninviting. Just my bias. I love how quick it dries, though! Glue will not reliably stick to any finish: Sand to bare wood.
Thank you very much for your advice Dave. What do you use as finish?
 
@Dean62 Thank you for that most informative comparison between Tung Oil and Danish oil. It just shows again how good Tung really is. it is just a long-drawn out process. In the meantime, I await your suggestion with regards to which polyurethane clear coat you use.
 
Thank you very much for your input Dean. With this I am keeping an absolutely open and clear mind, so I have no prejudice against a polyurethane clear coat. Can you recommend two or three good brands which are water-based?
3 brands I use…Varathane, Minwax and General Finishes. I like Varathane the best.
I use either satin or semi gloss water based polyurethane finishes.

This is what I used on the hull of the BN. And of course the Cazador.
 
Thank you Dean. I will see if I can find those on Taobao. :) If I don't use it for the hull, I will still use it on the decks, so it will not be wasted and put to good use in any case! Much appreciated! Thumbsup
 
The Kolderstok Deense olie (Danish oil) is about 50% Tung oil, some other oils (I think mostly linseed) and terpentine (the natural one, no white spirit) as solvent. It penetrates good, dries pretty quick and leaves a nice almost invisible satin finish.
Glueing something onto it is difficult.

Unfortunable I cannot ship this outside the Netherlands due to the solvent. Tung oil mixed with natural terpentine comes the most close to it.
 
The Kolderstok Deense olie (Danish oil) is about 50% Tung oil, some other oils (I think mostly linseed) and terpentine (the natural one, no white spirit) as solvent. It penetrates good, dries pretty quick and leaves a nice almost invisible satin finish.
Glueing something onto it is difficult.

Unfortunable I cannot ship this outside the Netherlands due to the solvent. Tung oil mixed with natural terpentine comes the most close to it.
Thank you very much for that Hans. I thought that the shipping might be a problem. So far, I have also not been able to find any of the polyurethane finishes that Dean suggested on Taobao.

My first coat of Tung Oil is always a 60/40 split between turpentine and tung oil - after that, I gradually increase the ratio until I end with approximately 60/40 tung oil and turpentine. So it seems as if my mixtures will give pretty much the same result as the Danish Oil.
 
It is not completely true what I wrote.
I have made a quick test on a piece of oak veneer:
Varnish & Danish oil.jpeg
Left is water based varnish semy gloss finish - middle is danish oil - right is water based varnish matt finish.

When you look at the backside you can see how danish oil penetrates the wood - with varnish you don't see anything:

Varnish & Danish oil backside.jpeg
And another picture wide the light from another angle:

Varnish & Danish oil 2.jpeg
As you can see the satin finish and danish oil do something to the colour of the wood (I first said this wasn't) and the matt finish is hardly visible.

Later today I will do a second test on a piece of walnut.
 
@Kolderstok Thank you Hans! I really like the effect of the Danish oil on the oak veneer - it will be very interesting to see the three different finishes on the walnut.
 
@Kolderstok Thank you Hans! I really like the effect of the Danish oil on the oak veneer - it will be very interesting to see the three different finishes on the walnut.

+1 for the Danish oil
I’m sure the Walnut will really “POP”

My finish of choice on my woodworking projects is Lacquer with second Danish oil.
I have a sample of Kolderstok’s oil which I really like. To bad about the export restrictions. :(

I guess I should not complain as apparently Heinrich you have even less products to choose from at your location.

Ron
 
Ron I am fortunate in that I have 100% pure Tung Oil - and probably a lifetime's worth of it. At the moment though, the Tung Oil (diluted with turpentine) is my only tried and tested option. Obviously there will be Chinese-branded polyurethane finishes available, but I have no experience with them.

微信图片_20220102214912.jpg
 
Ron I am fortunate in that I have 100% pure Tung Oil - and probably a lifetime's worth of it. At the moment though, the Tung Oil (diluted with turpentine) is my only tried and tested option. Obviously there will be Chinese-branded polyurethane finishes available, but I have no experience with them.

View attachment 280082

Heinrich, what do the Chinese ship builders forums said about the topic ? What do they use ? What about the Chinese polyurethane quality ? Etc etc.

This is an important forum that I visit frequently. I can read it in English "thanks to Google translator ".

I bet my name you visit it too.


Best
Daniel
 
Shipping 47 Bluenose kits to all corners of the world from China, has taught me an awful lot about shipping. Shipping to the USA and Canada is the cheapest - in the 72-75 USD range depending on the day of shipping (due to the exchange rate). Shipping to Europe (UK and the Netherlands) is slightly dearer with Australia surprisingly also in the 75-79 USD range. But the other day we were charged 97 USD for shipping a kit to Italy - mind boggling!
 
Heinrich, what do the Chinese ship builders forums said about the topic ? What do they use ? What about the Chinese polyurethane quality ? Etc etc.

This is an important forum that I visit frequently. I can read it in English "thanks to Google translator ".

I bet my name you visit it too.


Best
Daniel
Hi Daniel. That is an excellent suggestion - I will PM a few of the guys. By the way, you have almost lost your name ROTF. I have visited 4hmodel exactly twice - once right at the start of the Bluenose Group Build, and once while I was building the sampan! :)

I will find out from a few of the guys what they use.
 
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