HIGH HOPES, WILD MEN AND THE DEVIL’S JAW - Willem Barentsz Kolderstok 1:50

Beautiful and beautiful work the hull, Heinrich
The oil is the finishing touch or as they say here in the Netherlands

De kers op de taart

(The icing on the cake)


Greeting,
Henk
Thank you for the very kind words Henk, but like I said to Peter, there is no oil yet. :) That is just what the hull looks like in its natural state. By the way, your submarine build is just something else!
 
Fantastic job on the hull Heinrich. Also, I love the idea of the note. A time capsule for sure. I always (well most of the time) engrave my logo and date on the bottom of my woodworking projects. If I forget my Admiral let’s me know. :(

Ron
 
Fantastic job on the hull Heinrich. Also, I love the idea of the note. A time capsule for sure. I always (well most of the time) engrave my logo and date on the bottom of my woodworking projects. If I forget my Admiral let’s me know. :(

Ron
Thank you very much Ron. I am really happy with the way that the planking has turned out.

Your Admiral is right - it makes perfect sense to include your logo and the date on woodwork projects. I am sure that those projects are of great sentimental value to those who are lucky enough to have them in their homes.
 
Thank you very much Phil. It is actually quite a coincidence that you should mention sanding sealer. I have never used it before and therefore I spent quite a bit of time today reading up on it and doing some research. As I understand it, Sanding sealer fills the wood pores to promote quick sanding, a smooth finishing surface and reduces the number of coats that need to be applied

In the end, I have decided not to use it for the following reasons:

1 I need the Tung Oil to penetrate deeply into the wood for maximum protection, therefore I want to keep the wood-pores open.
2. I have basically a limitless supply of Tung Oil, so applying numerous coats is really not an issue.
3. Luckily for me, the hull does not require much sanding, so if I spend a little more time sanding, I'm OK with that.
3. Lastly, I want to achieve a natural wooden ship finish - I am not looking for the super-smooth, super-shiny finish that you would find on furniture.

But having said that, I think whether or not to use sanding sealer, is very much a personal choice and will neither make or break a hull finish.
 
First off, I have to surprise you - what you saw on the pictures that I posted just now, is still the raw wood - no finish of any kind has been applied! :) I still have to give it a final sanding with the 360 grit, then onto 400, 600 and I will finish with 1000.
The picture I was referring to definitely had some finishes used in them. On the oak and walnut samples, you mention the left area having gloss varnish, the right area matte, and the center Danish oil. The Danish oil portion is definitely darker, so my question was if it had any stain in it or was completely natural.

Do you feel sanding to 600 and 1000 grit are necessary for these types of finishes? They can be with smooth painted finishes, in between coats of varnish or lacquer, but didn't think it would be beneficial for oils.

You mention that you have a Pear wood model. What I can tell you, is that Tung Oil and Pear Wood is a match made in heaven! See the picture below of the Falkonet Leudo's Pear Wood hull after the application of Tung Oil.

HOWEVER : The downside to any oil-finish is the fact that adhesion is severely compromised. On models that I have finished with Tung Oil, I cannot glue or stick anything - not even after I have scuffed it roughened it with sandpaper. So, I suppose what we gain on the swings, we lose on the roundabouts! :)
Yeah, it really looks good on pear. But I'd really like to be able to apply a piece with glue over the finish. Maybe I can get around that some way.
 
@Signet Ok, now I understand - you were referring to the pictures that Hans posted. The walnut section was completely natural (no stain) before treated with the Danish Oil. So the darkening that took place was just how the walnut reacted to the treatment with the Danish Oil.
 
@Signet Ok, now I understand - you were referring to the pictures that Hans posted. The walnut section was completely natural (no stain) before treated with the Danish Oil. So the darkening that took place was just how the walnut reacted to the treatment with the Danish Oil.
Sorry for confusing things. So many posts, so many users, so many users quoting so many posts. Such beautiful craftsmanship.
 
Heinrich that hull looks great! Beautiful wood, can't wait to see it pop with the oil!

I like the idea of the note. Too late on my Galleon and no compartment on my Galilee but I'll keep it in mind for future builds. Thank you for posting this wonderful idea.

Glenn
 
Thank you very much Phil. It is actually quite a coincidence that you should mention sanding sealer. I have never used it before and therefore I spent quite a bit of time today reading up on it and doing some research. As I understand it, Sanding sealer fills the wood pores to promote quick sanding, a smooth finishing surface and reduces the number of coats that need to be applied

In the end, I have decided not to use it for the following reasons:

1 I need the Tung Oil to penetrate deeply into the wood for maximum protection, therefore I want to keep the wood-pores open.
2. I have basically a limitless supply of Tung Oil, so applying numerous coats is really not an issue.
3. Luckily for me, the hull does not require much sanding, so if I spend a little more time sanding, I'm OK with that.
3. Lastly, I want to achieve a natural wooden ship finish - I am not looking for the super-smooth, super-shiny finish that you would find on furniture.

But having said that, I think whether or not to use sanding sealer, is very much a personal choice and will neither make or break a hull finish.
Consider me stupid, but I never heard of (sanding) sealer. What the heck is that stuff, what is its use and why would one use it? What would be the dutch equivalent brand?
 
Thank you very much Phil. It is actually quite a coincidence that you should mention sanding sealer. I have never used it before and therefore I spent quite a bit of time today reading up on it and doing some research. As I understand it, Sanding sealer fills the wood pores to promote quick sanding, a smooth finishing surface and reduces the number of coats that need to be applied

In the end, I have decided not to use it for the following reasons:

1 I need the Tung Oil to penetrate deeply into the wood for maximum protection, therefore I want to keep the wood-pores open.
2. I have basically a limitless supply of Tung Oil, so applying numerous coats is really not an issue.
3. Luckily for me, the hull does not require much sanding, so if I spend a little more time sanding, I'm OK with that.
3. Lastly, I want to achieve a natural wooden ship finish - I am not looking for the super-smooth, super-shiny finish that you would find on furniture.

But having said that, I think whether or not to use sanding sealer, is very much a personal choice and will neither make or break a hull finish.
I've used sanding sealer on a lot of woodworking projects. There are other products for filling pores too. I guess it depends, when it comes to model building, how grainy is the wood and whether or not a smooth finish or even if paint is to be applied. I was't advocating for its use on your model. I use a lot of Danish Oil because it too soaks into wood to some extent. And I like the natural appearance it gives. I have not used tung oil. How's your Mandarin or Cantonese? Shopping for finishes in China could be interesting.
 
Heinrich that hull looks great! Beautiful wood, can't wait to see it pop with the oil!

I like the idea of the note. Too late on my Galleon and no compartment on my Galilee but I'll keep it in mind for future builds. Thank you for posting this wonderful idea.

Glenn
Thank you Glenn. As I mentioned to the other members who posted about this, I am probably just nostalgic. However, I am glad you like the idea. It is always something to consider for the future! :)
 
I've used sanding sealer on a lot of woodworking projects. There are other products for filling pores too. I guess it depends, when it comes to model building, how grainy is the wood and whether or not a smooth finish or even if paint is to be applied. I was't advocating for its use on your model. I use a lot of Danish Oil because it too soaks into wood to some extent. And I like the natural appearance it gives. I have not used tung oil. How's your Mandarin or Cantonese? Shopping for finishes in China could be interesting.
Thank you Phil. I understand the reason for your question perfectly well and it was a great one. If, for instance, I was going to paint the hull white (actually it's more of a creamy color - called "Harpuis" in Dutch) below the waterline which is historically the right thing to do, then I should have used sanding sealer. My Manadrin is very basic at best, so when it comes to those types of things, I am lost without the admiral. :)
 
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