HIGH HOPES, WILD MEN AND THE DEVIL’S JAW - Willem Barentsz Kolderstok 1:50

This is truly remarkable work Heinrich! The joining of the strakes is pure precision. Huzzah!
Thank you very much Paul. This build is keeping me on my toes all the time because I want every little thing to be as good as I can get it. However, I am already dreading the next step - cutting out gunports! :eek:
 
My update for the day. I have finished the sanding with the coarser grits and have also installed the stem part of the keel.

View attachment 280681
Starboard Side

View attachment 280683
The Port Side is definitely my favorite as far as the wood patterns and colors go.

View attachment 280684
This is why I am installing the stem and keel after the planking has been completed. This way I ensure a seamless fit between the planking and the stem.

Tomorrow - if I have chance, because I'm doing some charity teaching again - I will put down the central keel underneath the ship.
You got this looking a treat Heinrich. Fantastic.
 
Thank you very much Paul. This build is keeping me on my toes all the time because I want every little thing to be as good as I can get it. However, I am already dreading the next step - cutting out gunports! :eek:

That is why I purchased the Wonder Cutter. To do gunports. I wasn’t sure how well it would work until I recently cut the hole in the deck for the grating. It was pricey but well worth it. IMHO
It does require a steady hand so when I get to multiple cuts such as gun ports I will cut out a thin brass template to use.
 
That is why I purchased the Wonder Cutter. To do gunports. I wasn’t sure how well it would work until I recently cut the hole in the deck for the grating. It was pricey but well worth it. IMHO
It does require a steady hand so when I get to multiple cuts such as gun ports I will cut out a thin brass template to use.
Hi Ron. If you don't mind, can you share some more info about the Wonder Cutter, please?
 
I'm just loving your build here Heinrich. I enjoyed the discussion about oil finishes and the many ways of doing it. Someone posted a while back about not sanding but 'scraping' a finish on the deck or hull so as not to close off the wood pours which sanding will do. I'm just curious if you had heard this. It does seem that scraping a smooth finish would not be nearly as forgiving as sanding though??
I'm looking forward to the Tung oil look on the walnut!
 
Hi Ron. If you don't mind, can you share some more info about the Wonder Cutter, please?


Heinrich, I posted about it in Purchased shortly ago/sthg new in your workshop. The link above should get you there.

The following is from Micro Mark's website:

Wondercutter uses the amazing power of ultrasonic technology to revolutionize cutting from this moment forward. Producing a mind-boggling 40,000 vibrations PER SECOND, Wondercutter breezes through an amazing array of materials with such ease you simply will not believe your eyes . . . in fact, the oscillations are so rapid, you literally can't see or feel it move! This innovative tool will not only replace practically every other knife in your shop, it will expand your capabilities, enhance your creativity and allow you to execute the most intricate cuts even in the most difficult materials with a level of precision, ease and accuracy that was never possible before. Model makers, prototype builders, industrial designers, crafters, leather workers and DIYers of all kinds will find this ingenious, ground-breaking tool essential for cutting plastic, cardboard, balsa, fabrics, plywood, rubber, acrylic,


Ron
 
I'm just loving your build here Heinrich. I enjoyed the discussion about oil finishes and the many ways of doing it. Someone posted a while back about not sanding but 'scraping' a finish on the deck or hull so as not to close off the wood pours which sanding will do. I'm just curious if you had heard this. It does seem that scraping a smooth finish would not be nearly as forgiving as sanding though??
I'm looking forward to the Tung oil look on the walnut!
Hello Daniel. I am very happy that you are enjoying the build log. Yes, there are a quite few modelers on SOS who prefer to scrape the decks rather than sand them. The idea is that the wood grain is maintained while the simulated caulking and treenailing (if there are any) will not fade out because of sanding. Personally I have never done this, but may give it a go when it comes to the upperdecks.
 
Wonderful work Heinrich. You are building at great speed on this one. In this stage the original ship was launched.
 
Wonderful work Heinrich. You are building at great speed on this one. In this stage the original ship was launched.
Thank you Maarten. Call me silly, but that is the reason why I waited until I had finished the planking before I carried on with the history of the expedition itself. At least my hull is now at a stage where it can be "launched"!

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My update for the day. I have finished the sanding with the coarser grits and have also installed the stem part of the keel.

View attachment 280681
Starboard Side

View attachment 280683
The Port Side is definitely my favorite as far as the wood patterns and colors go.

View attachment 280684
This is why I am installing the stem and keel after the planking has been completed. This way I ensure a seamless fit between the planking and the stem.

Tomorrow - if I have chance, because I'm doing some charity teaching again - I will put down the central keel underneath the ship.
She’s looking great Heinrich! ;)
 
I can't tell if the joints have been sealed or caulked on the hull, or not.

But I am sure when first put in water, the hull will seep a bit until all the wood swells to normal size.

I was following a PT Boat rebuild, and when they rebuilt the forward half hull, with cross timbers, the original blueprints showed about 1/8" to 1/4" gap between boards, and they wondered why.

Finally one older sailor and wood worker told them about making sure you leave room for swelling of new dry wood which had never been submerged in water.

They used a pump to keep up with leaks for about 6-8 hours till wood swelled and all leaks stopped as well.
 
I can't tell if the joints have been sealed or caulked on the hull, or not.

But I am sure when first put in water, the hull will seep a bit until all the wood swells to normal size.

I was following a PT Boat rebuild, and when they rebuilt the forward half hull, with cross timbers, the original blueprints showed about 1/8" to 1/4" gap between boards, and they wondered why.

Finally one older sailor and wood worker told them about making sure you leave room for swelling of new dry wood which had never been submerged in water.

They used a pump to keep up with leaks for about 6-8 hours till wood swelled and all leaks stopped as well.
Hi Kurt - nice anecdote on the PT Boat's first 6-8 hours in the water.

I am pretty sure that the WB replica's hull planks would be caulked. Project Manager, Gerald de Weerdt, prides himself on the accuracy of the build; even down to using some of the same tools used by the early Dutch shipwrights. I will go through the pics I have of the replica and see whether I can come up with anything.
 
Thank you Maarten. Call me silly, but that is the reason why I waited until I had finished the planking before I carried on with the history of the expedition itself. At least my hull is now at a stage where it can be "launched"!

View attachment 280776
Good morning Heinrich- Cool photo of the WB. Question. I thought the ships of that era had only white painted below the waterline? Is the red an anti oxidising modern paint to protect this rebuild or is that accurate? Cheers
 
Hi Grant. You are absolutely right that they were only painted a sort of white below the waterline. ThumbsupThe red is indeed a modern measure which I can only assume is to combat fouling.
 
Good morning Heinrich- Cool photo of the WB. Question. I thought the ships of that era had only white painted below the waterline? Is the red an anti oxidising modern paint to protect this rebuild or is that accurate? Cheers
Was wondering the same. ;)
 
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