I tell you, Paul, the learning curve just keeps getting steeper and steeper the more you dig. The clinkered planking is a trademark on Dutch ships, but look here:
How do we win?
Jan, I don't blame you - I know it is very confusing. It took many, many hours of studying the plans and reading up on the two versions to figure this out. Once you have built your ship and seen how the levels pan out, you will have a much better understanding.
Hello Dear Friends.
Let me continue with the captain's cabin and attempt to place it in context for you. I finished its construction and just clamped it temporarily to the ship to show you, its position.
View attachment 317528
Yep - you have to look far ahead into the past to spot the captain cabin's front wall.
Let's look a bit closer.
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The front wall is clamped to the FRONT of Bulkhead #10. This is INCORRECT! It has to go behind Bulkhead #10 so that the mizzen mast is in front of the wall. The clearly marked "M" shows the position for the mizzen mast. As it sits now, the wall is clamped directly over and above that hole. I'm just doing it this way so that you can see what it looks like. It is now perfectly cut to size but moving it further back will mean that it will become oversized - exactly what I wanted as I can then trim it down for a perfect fit between the bulwarks.
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Very simple and basic hinges and doorknobs have been added in the meantime. Please note that the edges have not been sanded - that will only be done once the final fitment (which is still a l-o-n-g way off), takes place.
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On the much bigger model of Koos Weestra, he obviously had the luxury of adding more details - something that a bigger scale invariably offers.
I will now try to explain as best as I can how the layout between the two ships will differ:
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This shows how WB #1 was built. The solid red section represents the closed front wall of the midships canopy with the two doors (as it is on my model). The green shows the open grating and solid deck (small yellow section) which then steps up to the next deck which becomes level 2. Then there is another step to level 3 which explains why viewed from the side, my model shows three steps.
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This shows Build #2. The open red section indicates a completely open or partially covered front "wall", the much longer section which will be grated (green), the jump to the captain's cabin in blue and finally the top deck (yellow) - thus two levels only.
I do hope that this makes sense - my illustrations are terrible, I know - but hopefully they will give you some idea of what I am trying to achieve here.
Heinrich, good afternoon.
Hi Sasha. Thank you for the question. No, that is not the correct position at all. There will be another deck board where the "M" is (the M is for mizzen mast) and the bulkhead will be moved back towards the stern. I just placed it there to show how it looks - otherwise you wouldn't be able to see it behind the bulkhead with the M in it.
Toss a coin HeinrichI tell you, Paul, the learning curve just keeps getting steeper and steeper the more you dig. The clinkered planking is a trademark on Dutch ships, but look here:
View attachment 317527
The midships canopy / overkapping on the Willem Barentsz is planked vertically and without any clinker-effect AND it is an outside wall. Gerald de Weerdt's version confuses the whole issue even more by not having a wall here at all!
) and I know exactly what option to follow. My point was rather aimed at the casual modeler who buys a kit and then gets confused by the amounts of information (contrasting more often than not) that is available in books and from fellow modelers.
Hello my friend. I am not sure what foam she uses, because I cannot access her YouTube videos. I know there is a type of "expanding" foam that modelers sometimes use, but I have heard stories that it is difficult to control the expansion of this and that it may exert so much pressure on the bulkheads that it actually pushes them skew. Whether this is true or not, I do not know - but even so - I would rather use something I am familiar with. I get the Paulownia free of charge from YuanQing, so a big shout-out to Xiuli!
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I think you are good Jan. I am not cautious when it comes to fairing the hull (I use 80-grit sandpaper and let the little ship have it!
), but it was clear that there was an indentation on #9 that needed to be filled. I must tell you though that the partially boxed hull makes a big difference when fairing. Everything is just a lot more solid and rigid!
Thank you, Paul. I think I have built a more accurate hull than the first, as the fairing actually went quite quick and was easy to do. The only caveat is the boxing of the hull which is a lot of extra work and time, but hopefully it will be worth it when it comes to the planking.
I agree! And in my case, there are two more factors: To free, you need to add availability and speed of delivery (it took two days for the wood to get here from Shandong Province.Can't beat free
Olha has used rigid insulation as might be used in the construction industry.... Advantage: light weight.
