HIGH HOPES, WILD MEN AND THE DEVIL’S JAW - Willem Barentsz Kolderstok 1:50

Nomad said:
Excellent planking Heinrich, I am following your progress and technique with interest. Good luck Thumbsup
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Thank you very much Mark. I commented on your build log as well as far as the planking goes. Here you can see how I use the push pins - underneath or above the plank that is being laid. The clamps are to secure them while the edge-gluing is drying. Obviously with the boxing of the hull, I will use the push pins only below the wales.
 
Thank you very much, my friend - it is sincerely appreciated. The contrast is what I was after, Peter. Normally, the wales are painted black or stained darker, but now I achieved that effect by using two different wood types. It all remains natural though, and that is what I wanted. :)
 
Heinrich said:
Good morning, everyone. This is for all my friends have who have been so patiently and anxiously waiting for the first oak plank to go on. (Thank you for the pressure, @GrantTyler Grant - it keeps me sharp and on my toes. :) )

View attachment 318650
It does take time and lots of clips and clamps, but ...

View attachment 318651

the end result, I believe, is well worth it. The oak plank in the middle is flanked by the two walnut planks which will be doubled to form the wales. Notice the ever so slight "lip" as indicated by the two red arrows. (@Pathfinder65 Jan, this is why I do not as a rule bevel planks. When I dab that lip with my 360-grit sandpaper, I will have an absolutely perfect layer of planking which will be 100% even.) The contrast in color between the oak and the walnut was exactly what I was after and I am very happy with that effect.
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Good morning Heinrich......well worth the wait for sure. The contrast is stunning. Cheers Grant
 
Hi Heinrich. I think the colors of the oak and walnut playing against each other looks very promising.

If it wouldn't be too much trouble, could you please explain why beveling the upper edge of the planks isn't advisable. Especially as the ship hull increasingly curves it would seem helpful in 'closing the gap' between boards - especially on a single plank hull.
 
dockattner said:
Hi Heinrich. I think the colors of the oak and walnut playing against each other looks very promising.

If it wouldn't be too much trouble, could you please explain why beveling the upper edge of the planks isn't advisable. Especially as the ship hull increasingly curves it would seem helpful in 'closing the gap' between boards - especially on a single plank hull.
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Oh boy! I am always in trouble when I have to try and explain something technical because I never know if the intended meaning will get across clearly and logically. I will try my best though, but first the disclaimer: ROTF

The way I do this only pertains to the way I build and with the materials I use. I am in no way suggesting that it will work equally well on other builds or for builders who follow a far more scientific and calculated method of building. For example, I have never divided a hull into bands and calculated the exact number of strakes per band and the exact size to which planks need to be tapered, beforehand. I do that on the spot as the issue presents itself.

Yes Paul, beveling a plank will theoretically move two planks closer to each other, but I have never had an issue with gaps between my planks. The reason for that is that I do not fair my hull equally by the same amounts of material removed. As the curve increases, so does my fairing get heavier and more aggressive. It goes without saying that the converse also holds true. The planks that I have used - except for the sampan and the Leudo, have all had varying thicknesses, so what I have found is that without beveling, the one plank invariable sits "higher" or "lower" than the adjacent one. In that way a very clear line presents itself along the strake. When that ridge is sanded away, which is very easy to do, I have always obtained a seamless fit. With beveling, that ridge disappears and no longer offers me a clear guideline along which to sand. If I had built a hull with laser-cut planking (sampan, Leudo, Bluenose etc.) I would certainly bevel the planks as I no longer have the variable thickness to actually work in my favor.

The fact that Kolderstok planks are not finished to a butter-smooth finish of equal thickness throughout, suit my building style very well.

I hope I have made some sense. :)
 
Heinrich said:
Oh boy! I am always in trouble when I have to try and explain something technical because I never know if the intended meaning will get across clearly and logically. I will try my best though, but first the disclaimer: ROTF

The way I do this only pertains to the way I build and with the materials I use. I am in no way suggesting that it will work equally well on other builds or for builders who follow a far more scientific and calculated method of building. For example, I have never divided a hull into bands and calculated the exact number of strakes per band and the exact size to which planks need to be tapered, beforehand. I do that on the spot as the issue presents itself.

Yes Paul, beveling a plank will theoretically move two planks closer to each other, but I have never had an issue with gaps between my planks. The reason for that is that I do not fair my hull equally by the same amounts of material removed. As the curve increases, so does my fairing get heavier and more aggressive. It goes without saying that the converse also holds true. The planks that I have used - except for the sampan and the Leudo, have all had varying thicknesses, so what I have found is that without beveling, the one plank invariable sits "higher" or "lower" than the adjacent one. In that way a very clear line presents itself along the strake. When that ridge is sanded away, which is very easy to do, I have always obtained a seamless fit. With beveling, that ridge disappears and no longer offers me a clear guideline along which to sand. If I had built a hull with laser-cut planking (sampan, Leudo, Bluenose etc.) I would certainly bevel the planks as I no longer have the variable thickness to actually work in my favor.

The fact that Kolderstok planks are not finished to a butter-smooth finish of equal thickness throughout, suit my building style very well.

I hope I have made some sense. :)
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Thank you for taking the time to answer my question so carefully Heinrich. You're a good friend for doing so. I'm excited to see the hull planking progress. As I said, the color combination thus far looks promising!
 
dockattner said:
Thank you for taking the time to answer my question so carefully Heinrich. You're a good friend for doing so. I'm excited to see the hull planking progress. As I said, the color combination thus far looks promising!
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It's an absolute pleasure, my friend.

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If you look carefully at this picture I posted earlier, you will see that there is what looks like a fine "white" line in two places as indicated by the red arrows. That is exactly what I am talking about. The oak planking is thicker than the oak, thus it stands ever so slightly proud - presenting a "ridge" Now I know exactly where to sand between those two planks and Bob's your uncle!

I am also very excited about the oak/walnut combination - I think it can work very well.
 
Pathfinder65 said:
Excellent, I can see how that all would come together. I love the contrast between the Oak and Walnut. A very nice visual effect.
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Thank you, Jan! Like Paul said, there is promise in that combination. The WB obviously has three major wales and then there are also three 2mm x 3mm planks which are planked horizontally, only presenting profile of the plank and not its full face. For all those, I will use the walnut.
 
BTW, I’ve found that using your method of fitting, placing and then gluing a small section of plank is much easier to do versus placing the whole plank stem to stern. Your method allows for much finer control of the process.
 
Pathfinder65 said:
BTW, I’ve found that using your method of fitting, placing and then gluing a small section of plank is much easier to do versus placing the whole plank stem to stern. Your method allows for much finer control of the process.
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It does, Jan. I had to exert quite a bit of pressure on the oak to get it to bend vertically. Therefore, I fist made sure that the first section was properly glued - then soaked the rest of the plank with hot water (used a paint brush for this) before gluing the rest of the plank while applying constant pressure to obtain the correct curvature. The doubling of the wales is also done via this method.
 
RDN1954 said:
Hello Heinrich,
From your first installation of planks, can you already tell whether or not the legoblocks were beneficial for your planking process?
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Hi Johan. Absolutely - on two accounts:

First, it already provided a great surface for placing pins underneath the bottom wale (yellow line) in the area indicated in green.

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Secondly, the bulkheads above the waterline are much more rigid, allowing for much greater confidence when pinning of the oak strake and the top wale. Obviously, the blocking of the hull, will really come into its own when planking downwards towards the keel.
 
Heinrich said:
Oh boy! I am always in trouble when I have to try and explain something technical because I never know if the intended meaning will get across clearly and logically. I will try my best though, but first the disclaimer: ROTF

The way I do this only pertains to the way I build and with the materials I use. I am in no way suggesting that it will work equally well on other builds or for builders who follow a far more scientific and calculated method of building. For example, I have never divided a hull into bands and calculated the exact number of strakes per band and the exact size to which planks need to be tapered, beforehand. I do that on the spot as the issue presents itself.

Yes Paul, beveling a plank will theoretically move two planks closer to each other, but I have never had an issue with gaps between my planks. The reason for that is that I do not fair my hull equally by the same amounts of material removed. As the curve increases, so does my fairing get heavier and more aggressive. It goes without saying that the converse also holds true. The planks that I have used - except for the sampan and the Leudo, have all had varying thicknesses, so what I have found is that without beveling, the one plank invariable sits "higher" or "lower" than the adjacent one. In that way a very clear line presents itself along the strake. When that ridge is sanded away, which is very easy to do, I have always obtained a seamless fit. With beveling, that ridge disappears and no longer offers me a clear guideline along which to sand. If I had built a hull with laser-cut planking (sampan, Leudo, Bluenose etc.) I would certainly bevel the planks as I no longer have the variable thickness to actually work in my favor.

The fact that Kolderstok planks are not finished to a butter-smooth finish of equal thickness throughout, suit my building style very well.

I hope I have made some sense. :)
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It's like a window to your mind Heirich, hope that doesn't sound too creepy but I like the way you think.
 
Richie said:
It's like a window to your mind Heirich, hope that doesn't sound too creepy but I like the way you think.
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Not at all, my friend. My way of thinking is determined by my limitations and strengths as a builder - therefore, it is sometimes unconventional and not always suitable to follow as an example - but it works for me! :D
 
Hello Everyone!

Work on the wales continue and I will post pictures once complete. In the meantime, I have received yet another gift! One of the members on Modelbouwforum.nl, Mees Ippel, has sent me 50 high-resolution and extremely detailed pictures of the replica under construction. Mees is a very accomplished builder who is currently building an RC version of the Statenjacht.

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Mees's Statenjacht currently under construction.

AND NOW TO THE WILLEM BARENTSZ:

I will obviously include these pictures in my build log as and when it is applicable to a specific part of the build, but I thought I would just give you a taste of what is come.

Mees Ippel 23.jpg

How is that for a detailed picture of the shrouds and deadeyes!

Mees Ippel 32.jpg

The mooring bitt.

Mees Ippel 27.jpg

Exact detail as to how the ropes are tied to the clamps.

Mees Ippel 29.jpg

The winch, of course.

Pagina 26 No 7.jpg

Compass binnacle.

Pagina 26 No 11.jpg

The captain's cabin and Barentsz's bed. No luxuries here!

Once again, THANK YOU, Mees! Thumbsup

Mees Ippel 26.jpg
 
Have you ever done planking with the help of a drawer?

Laying down the starboard oak wale, required pressure to be exerted at the point where the plank is glued against the transom. Instead of doing that with my fingers for four hours, I decided to add weight to the end of the plank and let the weight pull the plank up tight against the transom.

微信图片_20220716211704.jpgNot enough weight though - so I added another clamp and my side-cutters, but now there was no way of laying down the ship with all that weight in the stern.

The solution?

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My trouser drawer! We will see how well - or not - it worked in about four hours' time. :)
 
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