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HMS Agamemnon by Caldercraft
- Thread starter HMSFly
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- Watchers 30
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- agamemnon caldercraft
Thanks Iutar, much appreciated. Both are as I thought, after 1780, if only by a year.
Allan
Chris's forecastle bulkhead toptimbers (part 151) are positioned so that they block the entrance to the toilets (round houses)! The number of toptimbers is incorrect. The round houses are very small compared to the archival drawings (I have combined the photographs to the same scale).
The head of main rail (part 157) is very thick at the top and should fit snugly against the toptimber part 152.
The head of main rail (part 157) is very thick at the top and should fit snugly against the toptimber part 152.
Dear friends! Message 281 seems to be showing something terrifying. Moving the cutterbar clips (parts 252, 184) up a few millimeters seems like a daunting task. In reality, we'll have to do it anyway:
The water cutter needs to be made sharp, and because of this, frame parts 29, 30, 31 will change. The upper rails 157, 158 will also change, and this will affect the grille 95.
In short, the entire nose needs to be redone.
The water cutter needs to be made sharp, and because of this, frame parts 29, 30, 31 will change. The upper rails 157, 158 will also change, and this will affect the grille 95.
In short, the entire nose needs to be redone.
By the way, about the 95 grille.
And here's how my friend Andrey did it on Vanguard 1\72.
And here's how my friend Andrey did it on Vanguard 1\72.
Another amusing mistake. Unfortunately, it once again confirms that 20 years ago, Chris Watton knew nothing about naval architecture.
There are mysterious bollards numbered 183 on the poop deck. They weren't there and couldn't have been there.
But where did Chris get them from? He couldn't have just made them up! What gave him the idea to put parts 183 on the poop deck?
I've guessed.
When designing a model, the author naturally looks for images of the prototype. Paintings of 64-gun ships are very few, and Greenwich most likely sent Chris this Marshall painting.
You can already guess what happened next.
Oh, Chris, Chris, why are you so inattentive!
Marshall's painting is a pair, and another angle gives us a view of the entire poop deck.
There are mysterious bollards numbered 183 on the poop deck. They weren't there and couldn't have been there.
But where did Chris get them from? He couldn't have just made them up! What gave him the idea to put parts 183 on the poop deck?
I've guessed.
When designing a model, the author naturally looks for images of the prototype. Paintings of 64-gun ships are very few, and Greenwich most likely sent Chris this Marshall painting.
You can already guess what happened next.
Oh, Chris, Chris, why are you so inattentive!
Marshall's painting is a pair, and another angle gives us a view of the entire poop deck.
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While my friend Iutar is redesigning the entire model, I'm still struggling with the "Hook and Butts." It's particularly tricky there: the width has to be 10 mm, and everything has to fit together almost perfectly. The bottom row needs to be 4 mm along the ends, and the top 6 mm. So, perfection in cutting is absolutely essential. I made some parts three times.
So first I used a strip 6mm wide and 100mm long (1 meter). Then I drew a line at 4mm. This way, I was sure all the separate pieces (I cut them into pieces later) would fit together.
Iutar is right, of course: you have to glue one strip at a time to the fuselage, as it's curved.
So I'll definitely be busy for another week (if not more)...
So first I used a strip 6mm wide and 100mm long (1 meter). Then I drew a line at 4mm. This way, I was sure all the separate pieces (I cut them into pieces later) would fit together.
Iutar is right, of course: you have to glue one strip at a time to the fuselage, as it's curved.
So I'll definitely be busy for another week (if not more)...
Mark and friends, please pay attention! There are ship parts that, when viewed, involuntarily draw comparisons to similar everyday objects. If the proportions on the model are off, the part looks unnatural and odd. This ruins the model. If the detail is related to human life, it is important to maintain all proportions. Modelers often make levers that are too thick to grip, like pump levers, or belaying pins as thick as an elephant's leg. Or they make levers too low or too high.
For example, on the Agamemnon models, the ladders (stairs) are thick and narrow, while on the archival drawings and models, the ladders are thin and wide. Furthermore, Chris Wotton made a mistake with the number of steps on the ladders and their placement.
All ladder dimensions can be easily calculated using a scale ruler located under the ship's keel on the museum drawing.
On all stairs (ladders) you will have 8 steps.
There will be only one ladder on the quarterdeck, the admiral's.
The second ladder (staircase), located near the steering wheel, must be removed: it only appeared on the landing ship design. On the original drawing, this ladder is drawn in pencil. It is not found on regular ships.
For example, on the Agamemnon models, the ladders (stairs) are thick and narrow, while on the archival drawings and models, the ladders are thin and wide. Furthermore, Chris Wotton made a mistake with the number of steps on the ladders and their placement.
All ladder dimensions can be easily calculated using a scale ruler located under the ship's keel on the museum drawing.
On all stairs (ladders) you will have 8 steps.
There will be only one ladder on the quarterdeck, the admiral's.
The second ladder (staircase), located near the steering wheel, must be removed: it only appeared on the landing ship design. On the original drawing, this ladder is drawn in pencil. It is not found on regular ships.
Mark and friends, here's another interesting point.
The poop deck needs to be made longer. The small platforms for the ladders (stairways) should be removed; the ladders will be placed directly against the forward beam of the poop deck. The bitts and skylight need to be redesigned according to the archival drawing.
The poop deck needs to be made longer. The small platforms for the ladders (stairways) should be removed; the ladders will be placed directly against the forward beam of the poop deck. The bitts and skylight need to be redesigned according to the archival drawing.
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Try as I might, I couldn't explain the reason for Chris Watton's next mistake, discussed in this post. Why his hatch has four sections instead of five will remain a mystery!
This was a drawing specifically for Nassau. The drawing for the entire series is slightly different. Here, the hatch also consists of five sections, but the shape of the hatch is slightly narrower toward the stern, and there is definitely no ladder. Also shown is the coaming of the hatch intended for the admiral's ladder.
Mark, I think the hatch that tapers towards the stern is more realistic.
Try as I might, I couldn't explain the reason for Chris Watton's next mistake, discussed in this post. Why his hatch has four sections instead of five will remain a mystery!
This was a drawing specifically for Nassau. The drawing for the entire series is slightly different. Here, the hatch also consists of five sections, but the shape of the hatch is slightly narrower toward the stern, and there is definitely no ladder. Also shown is the coaming of the hatch intended for the admiral's ladder.
Mark, I think the hatch that tapers towards the stern is more realistic.
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- Joined
- Jul 24, 2016
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- Points
- 128
speak to John or Richard at caldercraft +44 1905 457716 john might even be in todayHello everyone,
As promised I start building the Agamemnon.
I hope for interesting discussions and lots of feedback.
After opening the box I was already confronted with a big disappointment. A part of the stern basic hull being broken!!!
I contacted the shop where I ordered the kit. He in turn has to contact his supplier who in turn has to contact the company Krick in Germany. And then Caldercraft in the UK... That will take a veeeeery long time I'm afraid. I will try to contact Caldercraft (Jotika) directly for a replacement...
In the meantime I will try to glue the broken piece...
And the instruction manual in German!
My prefered shop purchased the kit in Germany.....
Bad beginning good ending?
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I wonder if you build the Jig without glue you might se a way of sticking it together FLAT and the putting scraps of wiid to strengthen It
Where are You
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2016
- Messages
- 414
- Points
- 128
ALL files are downloadable from Caldercraft web site
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2016
- Messages
- 414
- Points
- 128
i recon you could 3d print buckets with GR logo
