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HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)
Perhaps. But you take a much more thoughtful approach to fabrication. I tend to rely a bit more on ‘looks right’ than ‘properly fabricated’. I simply don’t have you CAD skills.
Freaking Brilliant Sergey
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- Mar 1, 2022
- Messages
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- Points
- 308
Wow! a working hatch... that's insane! Congrats, great job.Gangway (companionway to after platform)
3/3
In this part I will show how I made a working door and it was very interesting.
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The guides are cut slightly larger than the required size and ground on an angle grinder.
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And as I already said, the door is fully functional and can be in any position, both open and closed.
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The ladders are not yet completely ready (they still need bolts and nails), but the final appearance is almost complete.
Gangway (companionway to after platform)
3/3
In this part I will show how I made a working door and it was very interesting.
View attachment 571488
The guides are cut slightly larger than the required size and ground on an angle grinder.
View attachment 571489
View attachment 571494
View attachment 571495
View attachment 571496
View attachment 571497
View attachment 571498
And as I already said, the door is fully functional and can be in any position, both open and closed.
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The ladders are not yet completely ready (they still need bolts and nails), but the final appearance is almost complete.
Of course a gangway door/hatch must work/slide ……
Nice outcome of your precise work, Sergey.Regards, Peter
I always like to say that the result is most important. I really like your result. As for thinking through all the manufacturing processes, that's always been the case. I have a poor memory, but I have a very well-developed imagination and intuition, so if I don't know or don't remember something, I can always come up with something new or simply figure out how to do it. This is my defense against such a leaky memory.
Thank you, it's very nice
Thank you, it was interesting and difficult, but it was worth it.
Thanks, I thought about it too and decided to do it that way, but now the question is how to leave it on the model. It tends to be partially open, so that both the interior with the stairs and the closed part are visible.Of course a gangway door/hatch must work/slide ……
Regards, Peter
You are only forty years old. It does not get any better, trust me. My books are near falling apart from use as I find I go to them more and more often to confirm or correct what I THINK I remember. Finding the right term/name of something can be frustrating. For example, is there a specific name for the shingle like decorations on the roof of the quarter galleries? Maybe as simple as shingles, but then again maybe something more like the "gadrooning" under the galleries.
Allan
Ahah, my memory has always been bad, I'm already used to it, it's good that it doesn't get worse with age (maybe because it can't get any worse)
Thank you for your feedback. It is very nice of you.
Chapter 8. Nailing and Bolting
1. Nailing the side.
1/2
As I already mentioned, I use birch toothpicks for nailing, NOT bamboo! I don't recommend them, as the cut edges have very pronounced pores. I liked the birch toothpicks for their color, texture, and comfort (they're round, ready for sharpening, and spin easily in my fingers).
I sharpen the toothpicks on both sides to a 0.4-0.6 mm taper, so that where the 0.5 mm thickness is, it fits snugly into the 0.5 mm hole.
I don't use glue; I just push it firmly until the toothpick wedges into the board. It's important not to sharpen it too much or widen the hole when inserting it. Visually, the toothpicks appear thicker, but when you pull them out, the part that was inside the board will be thinner, as it has acquired the thickness of the board.
Then I cut off the excess through the pad with nippers. The pad gives me an even length.
Then I very carefully polish the top with 320 - 500 grit sandpaper and after that I remove all the remaining lint with 0000+ steel wool. But I'll talk about this in the next post.
I understand perfectly well that the plug covering the nail was cut flush with the board (in real life), and that's logical, but! This is a model, and we're making it look good first and foremost (at least I am). And I really like Dmitry Shevelev's method. That's why I do it this way. Yes, it's more difficult, takes longer, and you can't polish the hull afterwards (that's why I've already polished it beforehand), but I like the result with the slightly textured plugs (nails). Here's my reference (Dmitry Shevelev's 75-gun ship):
In short, I'll show the final result later, but for now I'll continue. On paired frames, nailing alternates with bolting in a staggered pattern (except where the planks are joined, where only bolts are used).
For convenience, where the toothpicks are very dense, I insert them at intervals.
By the way, one toothpick makes 14 dowels (7 sharpenings).
Almost finished both sides, next comes the borax treatment and final polishing to the desired shape...
...faster than it initially seemed, but that's not just the bolts, that's the quantity...
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It all depends on the dowel diameter and the photo magnification. If it's 0.5 mm, it's visible with very close-up photography. Whether someone can see it with the naked eye is another matter entirely... but I always check my work (as I always do) with binoculars, so this is crucial for me.I love the idea of trying the birch as an alternative. You are right about bamboo, but I defy anyone to spot pores at our most common scales.
Alan
Drawn bamboo treenails
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I agree that photography of our work can be our worst enemy or best friend. If we want to find a mistake it is a very good thing.
Thankfully, I am pretty sure no one that has seen my models has taken close up photos of the treenails.
Allan
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2022
- Messages
- 1,119
- Points
- 443
Sergey Sergey Sergey, 
what on earth are you doing???
I don't know how, but what I do know is: it looks fantastic!!As always, I'm speechless. Quick question: what kind of glasses are you using and what is the magnification? 3x, 5x, 7x? How much did these glasses cost?
Many thanks for your reply.
Günther
what on earth are you doing???
I don't know how, but what I do know is: it looks fantastic!!
As always, I'm speechless. Quick question: what kind of glasses are you using and what is the magnification? 3x, 5x, 7x? How much did these glasses cost?Many thanks for your reply.
Günther
N.B. I've slightly corrected the previous post (added a photo of the result in normal quality, plus I used 500 grit sandpaper instead of 1000, but otherwise everything seems to be unchanged).
I use my x3 dental binoculars (they could be larger, but that reduces the working field, so x3 is a perfectly acceptable option). I bought them 100 years ago for 700 euros; they're probably twice as expensive now. But there are much more affordable options; they're custom-made, which is why the price is so high. Thanks again.
Ahahaha, thanks for the feedback.Sergey Sergey Sergey,
what on earth are you doing???
I don't know how, but what I do know is: it looks fantastic!!
Many thanks for your reply.
Günther
I use my x3 dental binoculars (they could be larger, but that reduces the working field, so x3 is a perfectly acceptable option). I bought them 100 years ago for 700 euros; they're probably twice as expensive now. But there are much more affordable options; they're custom-made, which is why the price is so high. Thanks again.But you know who would like to see it with magnification.I agree that photography of our work can be our worst enemy or best friend. If we want to find a mistake it is a very good thing.
Thankfully, I am pretty sure no one that has seen my models has taken close up photos of the treenails.
Allan
Nailing the side.
2/2
I changed my plan a bit. I'm always looking for faster methods, so I used a drill bit where it was hard to reach, and in smooth areas, I simply trimmed the toothpick a bit more (to fit another gasket), then sanded with 320 - 500-grit sandpaper and then removed the lint with 0000+ steel wool.
So, here are the results. Naturally, it's hard to see with the naked eye, especially when dry. After applying oil and bitumen, all those nails will stand out quite a bit.
Of course, without all this, I could have done it in a couple of hours, sanding everything down to the level of the boards, but I repeat, I really like Shevelev’s version and I deliberately spent two days on it.
Even my laziness is powerless here.
P.S. my goal is to achieve something like this... eh
2/2
I changed my plan a bit. I'm always looking for faster methods, so I used a drill bit where it was hard to reach, and in smooth areas, I simply trimmed the toothpick a bit more (to fit another gasket), then sanded with 320 - 500-grit sandpaper and then removed the lint with 0000+ steel wool.
So, here are the results. Naturally, it's hard to see with the naked eye, especially when dry. After applying oil and bitumen, all those nails will stand out quite a bit.
Of course, without all this, I could have done it in a couple of hours, sanding everything down to the level of the boards, but I repeat, I really like Shevelev’s version and I deliberately spent two days on it.
Even my laziness is powerless here.
P.S. my goal is to achieve something like this... eh
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Congratulations on achieving your goal. They can be elusive at times.
Thank you. Yes, I haven't reached my goal yet, but I hope to get there with small steps. Now, something much more difficult – the bolts.