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HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)

Thank you, friends, for your activity. Thank you, @Charlie1805 Thank you for your kind words and wishes. The same to you, friend!



Today is a day of disappointment for me... after four and a half months, my order from the carpenter arrived. As you may remember, I was modeling stands for models and for a milling machine. The craftsman kept promising me, but it feels like when the deadlines were already approaching, he cobbled it all together in half an hour out of junk and scraps. But more on that below... and then the second package finally got to the bottom of it. The magnetic mixer arrived... and it doesn't work :mad:

This is what the order was supposed to look like...

Case pro.jpg

...and here's the piece of **** I got.

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Naturally, I didn't accept this result and sent the junk back, and I'll be refunding the entire amount.

It's a shame that people even call this work done. And since so few people have volunteered to do what I want, I'll have to do it the old-fashioned way... using fiberboard furniture material, at least everything will be even and mimetic, without such botched work. I once made two wardrobes and a bed for myself, and they made them according to my plans. Of course, I wanted wood, but I'll have to make it out of fiberboard. I just need boxes for the ships. Although the modlays are in the tel, wood oxidizes, plus UV... and I'll show you the difference between the material on the ship and the one that's been sitting on the windowsill for two months. So, I want to order stands and order plexiglass for them and cover it with a museum-quality film with a UV filter, like I did for the Victory. It's been standing for so long and everything is fine with it. So, that's how it is... It's a shame you can't travel much in Ukraine these days and check out the craftsmen in person. Photos show everyone is a master, but in reality, they send you such garbage...

The only good thing is that the blackening seems to be going more or less well. The results are consistent and repeatable... and most importantly, I finally like it... and I'll show you soon; I'm preparing a post.
 
Thank you, friends, for your activity. Thank you, @Charlie1805 Thank you for your kind words and wishes. The same to you, friend!



Today is a day of disappointment for me... after four and a half months, my order from the carpenter arrived. As you may remember, I was modeling stands for models and for a milling machine. The craftsman kept promising me, but it feels like when the deadlines were already approaching, he cobbled it all together in half an hour out of junk and scraps. But more on that below... and then the second package finally got to the bottom of it. The magnetic mixer arrived... and it doesn't work :mad:

This is what the order was supposed to look like...

View attachment 589974

...and here's the piece of **** I got.

View attachment 589976


View attachment 589977

View attachment 589978

View attachment 589979

View attachment 589980

Naturally, I didn't accept this result and sent the junk back, and I'll be refunding the entire amount.

It's a shame that people even call this work done. And since so few people have volunteered to do what I want, I'll have to do it the old-fashioned way... using fiberboard furniture material, at least everything will be even and mimetic, without such botched work. I once made two wardrobes and a bed for myself, and they made them according to my plans. Of course, I wanted wood, but I'll have to make it out of fiberboard. I just need boxes for the ships. Although the modlays are in the tel, wood oxidizes, plus UV... and I'll show you the difference between the material on the ship and the one that's been sitting on the windowsill for two months. So, I want to order stands and order plexiglass for them and cover it with a museum-quality film with a UV filter, like I did for the Victory. It's been standing for so long and everything is fine with it. So, that's how it is... It's a shame you can't travel much in Ukraine these days and check out the craftsmen in person. Photos show everyone is a master, but in reality, they send you such garbage...

The only good thing is that the blackening seems to be going more or less well. The results are consistent and repeatable... and most importantly, I finally like it... and I'll show you soon; I'm preparing a post.
I'm very sorry you had trouble with your woodwork/cabinetry that you contracted out. Most people would probably look at it and say it's great, but you being an exceptionally skilled builder see all the flaws that many do not see.
That pin you pointed out that you didn't ask for might be just a cover that is over a screw head.
Very sad work.
 
*Запитання локалізоване, відповідь надано без перекладу. Я купив його через Google у Києві.
Так, як це локалізоване питання, то відповідь дам на нашу. Брав на Промі (760грн). Просто в Гуглі прописав Струмопровідний спрей лак графіт. Взяв те, що по ціні сподобався))) чат сказали вони всі +- однакові. На вигляд той, що в темі гальваніка, там є фото. Graphit 33 Kontakt Chemie. Але якщо не постішаєш, то я ще не закінчив експерименти.. я думаю, якщо з графітом "танці з бубном" то може кращий середній спрей... Там все на багато простіше, але і дорожче(( 200мл коштує 1700-1900 грн. Але переваги колосальні. Але я чекаю мішалку, і якщо буде результат швидше, прогнозований і такий як я хочу, то і графіт добре))
Дякую. Я не поспішаю, дочекаюсь твоїх кінцевих результатів;)

Я колись замовив був меблі, після того всі меблі для дому роблю сам :)
Якщо хочеш зробити щось добре - роби сам, або у знайомих, перевірених майстрів.
 
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I'm very sorry you had trouble with your woodwork/cabinetry that you contracted out. Most people would probably look at it and say it's great, but you being an exceptionally skilled builder see all the flaws that many do not see.
That pin you pointed out that you didn't ask for might be just a cover that is over a screw head.
Very sad work.
Thanks for the words of encouragement. Yes, in theory it would be possible to try to improve what we have... but not for the money I paid. I'll try to create a temporary, cheap version now, so it'll work until I can create something more beautiful and complex.

Bummer about the cabinetry. Of course this exists in every profession, but when you are personally on the receiving end it is extremely frustrating.
Thanks for the support. Honestly, I didn't expect things to be this bad. They say, "If you want something good, do it yourself."

Дякую. Я не поспішаю, дочекаюсь твоїх кінцевих результатів;)

Я колись замовив був меблі, після того всі меблі для дому роблю сам :)
Якщо хочеш зробити щось добре - роби сам, або у знайомих, перевірених майстрів.
100% про те що, краще зробити самому. Аналогічно, я сам спроектував і зібрав з деталей замовлених з Віяр 2 шафи купе важкої форми і ліжко. Так і тут зроблю.. хоча б на перший час, а потім, може колись знайду нормального столяра. Результат чорніння я сьогодні викладу. Мені ± сподобалось. Але потрібно ще повністю пару раз все зробити, щоб точно була 100% повторювальність.
 
I've published two new posts with the results of the blackening process and the process itself.
I've described in detail two blackening application methods and demonstrated the different shades on different copper surfaces.


Alert 2274.jpg

Alert 2283.jpg
 
Generally speaking, I think the process and the way you describe it are brilliant, but what I don’t like is that the edges lose their sharpness during the process; it looks too soft and rounded.

Anyway keep going and post everything (!!!!) – I think the scientific approach is brilliant and really informative! Love it!
 
Generally speaking, I think the process and the way you describe it are brilliant, but what I don’t like is that the edges lose their sharpness during the process; it looks too soft and rounded.

Anyway keep going and post everything (!!!!) – I think the scientific approach is brilliant and really informative! Love it!
Thank you. These guns are almost 100th scale, so they're purely for testing. At 48m, the edges will be sharper. And the anchors will be almost the same. I think the anchors have an acceptable roundness; at least, I like it that way. Well, I'm not a fan of cubism ROTF , but I try not to smooth them out too much.
 
While I'm waiting for the magnetic stirrer (again, because the first one didn't work), I'm continuing to work on the deck. I decided to drill holes for all the inputs and outputs, but with a milling machine for precision and speed.
But first, calibration. I installed the needle in the tip so the boards run exactly lengthwise. I adjusted the position on one side and then the other, alternately securing the clamps. Now, when the milling cutter moves, it will either run along or perpendicular to the deck axis.

Alert 2284.jpg

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This way I cut a precise hole for the center grating.

Alert 2286.jpg

And for the rest, too. Just be sure to put some electrical tape under the fasteners to avoid leaving marks on the wood.

Alert 2287.jpg

I also marked the locations for drilling holes for the pins that will reinforce the bits.

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Now, to securely fix the gratings without glue, you need to make an imitation of beams and carlings.

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Visually, we are interested in the inner side, and since the difference will be almost invisible anywhere, I made the thicknesses the same for convenience.

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The only difference was in the rear grating. Since I plan to install an interior light source, I don't want it to hit that grating. Therefore, the black box will completely isolate everything.

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The grating work isn't finished yet. A few more adjustments are needed, and then they can be coated with oil to ensure it cures well before applying the bitumen.

And here are a couple more macro photos of the final work with the bolts (weve) and nailing. A total of 1,914 bolts were installed (including 68 on the weve). It's not a lot, but each one had to be made individually, which changes the overall impression a bit. And the dowels aren't finished yet. Besides the ones near the sternpost, I still need to make the blue ones once I've glued up the blue hornbeam boards.

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I'm almost done with everything below the yellow and black railing... and now I need to tackle the steering wheel hinges (model them, print them, copper-plate them, and blacken them) so I can fully continue working on the inside of the hull...

I'm just wondering by the look of the bolts on the weve... Even when they darken and oxidize, they'll still be visible against the black strip... I haven't decided yet if I like it this way, or after applying the bitumen, if I should darken them with Brass Black ...
 
So, to finally finish the outer surface and move on to the inner, I need to finish the rudder, or more precisely, the rudder hinges. I've looked through a ton of photos and drawings of cutters and I'm modifying my hinges, or more precisely, I'll make the two lower ones longer, overlapping the planking.

Alert 2304.jpg

I'm following ship logic... the lower hinges bear a tremendous weight, considering the two upper ones are small. And since there are ribs under the planking, it's logical to do it the way most cutters do (especially larger ones).
Plus, I don't believe there wasn't an emergency rudder-turning mechanism (manually using chains). In the photo above, it's shown in blue and red. (I've already decided and will use the red version.) Plus, if the rib wasn't large, the hinge would bend around it - shown in black. All of this can be seen on virtually all ships of that period. Incidentally, the anatomy of this ship itself confirms the hinge length, where, in fact, one drawing shows exactly that.

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The option on the right is definitely more accurate and functional.

As many already know, I'll be 3D printing the metal parts and then copper-plating and blackening them... but to print them, I need to somehow process them... At first, I thought it would be faster to scan the existing parts from the kit and then print them... but then I changed my mind and decided to do everything from scratch.

3D Modeling. Part 1.

Just so you understand, it took me only two days to create everything you'll see below, including preparing it for printing. This is because I definitely couldn't have made these same parts for both models in two days...
I modeled them in Blender 3D and then used the Anycubic slicer for printing.

3D 01.jpg

3D 02.jpg

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Since it doesn't matter how many parts you put in for printing, and the only thing that matters is the height of the longest part (the duration of the process depends on this), I made a number of other parts at the same time so that I could print them simultaneously.

3D 16.jpg

These parts (top and bottom) could be made from copper or brass plate, but achieving symmetry and precision by hand is more difficult than this method. Let's see if this thickness works... 0.2 mm

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I always check one copy for compatibility and errors before printing...

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Then I prepare everything for printing, duplicating everything in the required quantity. To be on the safe side, I always print with a margin for defects (both during and after printing). And since I'm making parts for two models at once, I print, for example, not four parts, but six. Or if I only need one part, I print at least one more as a reserve.

3D 19.jpg

I recommend placing small details around the perimeter. 1) It's easier to tear off later. 2) The film is more intact there. 3) The film stretches less during printing.

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I myself am interested in how it will be after copper plating and blackening... we'll see later.

P.S. Thank you, @Corsair , @AnobiumPunctatum for your very nice comments.
 
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Hallo zusammen,
Weiß jemand, ob es eine PDF-Version des „HMS Alarmbuchs“ gibt?
@serikoff, Entschuldigung, dass ich das hier in deinem fantastischen Baubericht frage.
Was für einen genialeren Baubericht !
 
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