HMS Alert SOS Edition by PaulV

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THANKS PAUL, VERY MUCH APPRECIATED, THE PLANS ARE WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT YES A LIGT BLUE, I AM CUTTING THEM UP INTO SECTIONS TO MAKE IT EASIER TO USE, MY DAUGHTER WILL DOWNLOAD THE LIBRE FOR ME TOMORROW, THANK YOU GREATLY . GOD BLESS YOU AND YOURS STAY SAFE DON
 
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Video coming shortly.

A lot has been done, but not a lot. ( bit like frigging ribs). I have built, and shaped the lower floor joist pairs, but they could not be fitted till Trident had updated the interior doco. Now that they have provided it, I have commenced building the little structures. Be aware that the parts are VERY VERY small and light not just etched. They are individual planks that need to be cut away from the templates and glued together. Any heavy breathing will make them go bye bye. A sneeze and its all over. Good luck finding any parts. The solution, painters tape, is in the videos, but its only pre glue. ( The time between placing & glue dry is still a sneezable zone). I'm sure Jimsky / Maarten will do an excellent photo essay on this ( it may need it).

Anyway I have completed the front bulkheads and am in the process of assembling the small cabinets & storage areas in the deadwood area. It is a Head magnifier,tweezers and scalpel blade alignment of parts process. I am doing this on a very flat acrylic a4 sheet. The PVA does not stick to it, so I can edge glue, line up, lay flat and leave to dry on the acrylic sheet. once dry the parts are solid enough to sand. Adding the 2 x 2 where indicated makes them very sturdy.

The wall panels will need to be shaped to fit your hull as they are only close and not curved to fit. Fit sand fit sand etc etc.

This is heaps of fun and anyone who loves doing deck furniture fit out will have a ball. The parts are extremely well cut.
It does not look like they supplied hinges,( there is some PE but not sure it is for this), but at this size and due to the fact that a lot of it is hard to see, I will probably use black card stock imitation. I may have some old fittings as leftovers but I have not looked yet.

I also completed the barrels( single layer no end cap overlay), but I'm not sure I will use them as they look way out of scale ( much too big compared to the rest of the model parts ). I do have some smaller ones from other builds floating around, but have to find them

If you want to see the hull interior from a Ribs/ Beams perspective, do not add the cabins. A lot is covered up. But if your want to see how the interior fit goes together then I highly recommend it.

BTW I seem to have lost the ability to Bold Italic , add emoticons etc. Anyone know how to turn this back on / off ?

POST EDIT

Fixed it. There is an option toggle BB code near the undo redo that enables disables it.!

See you soon.
 
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Hi Paul,
The reason things are quiet at my workshop is exactly as you have indicated..
Do I add the interior or not?. It is ,as you say, really well cut etc. but does one lose that Navy Board Model look?
Wang's work is without a doubt superb, but I am not looking for that set piece diorama look.
So I'm doing bits and pieces that leave my options wide open as to the finish. I have assembled some of the interior bits and they are tricky but once the 2x2 s go on they are quite sturdy. Re the hinges and other iron fittings.. On other projects I have used the foil from wine bottle lids but these days the bottles all seem to be screw caps...A visit to Dan Murphy's might be in order?
Cheers, Danielw
 
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WARNING: some good news & some bad news.

I used some brass black on the PE parts suppied in the kits. Bad move. not sure if its true brass or some alloy but the parts only got a powdery surface and when I picked thm up they disintegrated. So ALL the PE in my kit is now kaput!,

The good news is that I had some black cardstock so replicating the door hinges was not to difficult. The parts are so small that its not a huge issue. Just need lots of magnification, steel ruler and very sharp no 11 and some imagination.

I have competed all the lower assemblies using the partial PDF provided by Trident and the 3d Images. Still took a little nutting out and trial and error fitting but now they are all done. Video soon. They all connected to the lower beams so final placement is not to difficult. Still gotta work out how the lower floors attach.

Look at the size of the barrels and advise if not to scale. I assume at this size, if they are to scale, they would be ballast or water. If not that's a hell of a lot of RUM!.

See you soon.
 

Jimsky

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Great idea, Poul. But, their chemicals will not be able to reach us, they are prohibited for shipments. Maybe the 'Brass black' should be diluted with water? Also, it is a possibility testing them with our (available to us) using the scraps of frets.
 
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Hi guys, the Solution of Casey Birtchwood Brass black should always be diluted for PE. I normally use a 10% solution mixture with water. Sronger solutions can lead to pitting on the surface. I have used the same product for a long time and its the same stuff as shown in an earlier video. It typically just darkens the brass and leave a small film of oxidization on the parts. Sometimes areas will not darken and have to be cleaned with acetone first.

The liquid turns dark blue as it does it job. In this instance the parts went black, but the liquid remained clear.When n I took the parts out the black fell off and the parts strarted to fall apart as I washed them under slow running water . Never had this happen before. The PE looked and felt normal prior to dunking. They fell apart over a 10 minute session. As to why it happened I have no idea.
 
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Paul, I was going to hit the "like" key but that would be totally inappropriate!!Thanks for the heads up on that...It's got me bushed as to how/why.
 
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Maybe it is better to do it on a copy machine to avoid distortion etc. (like if the camera is not 100% perpendicular to the object).
If no one else volunteer I can try but I'm having a few holidays so I'm not near a copy machine till next week
 
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