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HMS Beagle 1/60

To light my model, I decided to use LEDs and a common DC voltage source (5Volts) from a USB charging socket. I stripped a USB cable to find and check which coloured wire carried the 5V. It's the red wire.

HMS-Beagle Build 27a.jpg

The LEDs I am using have a 3V drop and use 20 milliamps (mA). The following formula calculates the load resistor value to use to drop the 5v to the required 3V at 20mA. It turns out to be 100 ohms. To dim the LED I decided to use a variable resistor up to 10x the load resistor (i.e., 1k ohms), which worked well in my past 'aged' projects.
HMS-Beagle Build 27.jpg

To my surprise, I discovered that LEDs are much brighter these days! I needed to increase the resistor values by 10 times to get a reasonable dimming effect.
Now the R=1k ohms and VR=10k ohms.
HMS-Beagle Build 27b.jpg
 
Throughout the festive season, I fell (caught two bouts of cold in the middle of summer!). Being 70+ y.o. is vastly different from being 60+.
Anyway, I did get to do a bit here and there towards the build.

I hesitated attaching the upper aft deck due to needing to put the helm section underneath it, as well as a night (red) light. I decided it was best to put those bits in first.

Since the sailors of the period were short in stature, even 1:72 scale figures were too tall for a 1:60 scale ship. I had to cut the poor helmsman down to size. I also amputated his arm to relocate it to handle the helm's wheel. I think the helsman will look better after I paint him.

HMS-Beagle Build 31a.jpg

HMS-Beagle Build 31b.jpg

At first, I really botched up both the Marine and Binnacle compasses. They are bloody small! And my peepers are not exactly on the ball.
I tried to drill out the Binnacle compass window, but that did not work out too well. However, to some degree, I was able to recess the red micro LED into it. My goal is to have some sort of light reflection onto the helmsman. Something like in the following image...


gettyimages-1162919252-612x612.jpg
 
The helm's wheel was attached to the deck. The steering rope was fed through the deck and glued to the framework to show tension in the rope.

HMS-Beagle Build 32a.jpg

I was not too happy about the cutdown version of the helmsman, so I operated on him again. This time, instead of just cutting his legs, I cut a piece out of his midsection and some of his lower legs. This made him more proportional in appearance. I found that Blu Tack works well to keep loose parts in place while gluing with Supa glue.

HMS-Beagle Build 32b.jpg

Then I stuck the figure on some copper wire, as a stand, to paint it.

HMS-Beagle Build 32c.jpg
 
When will I start planking the boat?

A few weeks ago, I had an idea of including lights in the model. This idea has turned into a multi-layer problem due to 'wiring'. Because there are more than two wires (+volts and ground), a simple socket attached to the hull won't work. Two wires are the simple solution where all LED lights are set to one prearranged degree of brightness. However, I want to be able to adjust the brightness of the different LEDs to suit the ship in its completed state. In other words, there will be a need to harness many wires exiting the boat through its two display standposts. These wires will be connected to a control panel that allows me to select lights and vary their brightness levels.

I cannot start planking the hull until I sort out the wiring. There will be about twenty-one LEDs. Eleven of them will be in lanterns.
Also, need to sort out how to attach the two hollow standposts to both the hull and the stand.
I think I am very close to sorting all these things out.
 
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