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It's great to see you working on your beautiful Enterprise again! I look forward to seeing more progress and pictures from you.
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- Jul 17, 2024
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Hello Keeth,
I am glad to read that you have recovered and found your way back to the shipyard.
For several months now I have been following your build log, and I must say that you can be proud of your work. I myself am considering putting the Enterprise on my wish list after completing my Victory. It seems to me quite a challenge to switch from a POB to a POF model.
You now have the hull with the keel and all its frames finished, and you are working on the gun ports. To what extent do you want to make the hull an open construction, so that one can also look inside the ship? I myself would like to build an open model, in which all decks are visible and can be fitted out.
What is your view on this?
I am glad to read that you have recovered and found your way back to the shipyard.
For several months now I have been following your build log, and I must say that you can be proud of your work. I myself am considering putting the Enterprise on my wish list after completing my Victory. It seems to me quite a challenge to switch from a POB to a POF model.
You now have the hull with the keel and all its frames finished, and you are working on the gun ports. To what extent do you want to make the hull an open construction, so that one can also look inside the ship? I myself would like to build an open model, in which all decks are visible and can be fitted out.
What is your view on this?
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2022
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Thank you for your kind thoughts. I have given some thought to the finished construction and have decided to plank the hull only down to the wales, port and straboard, leaving all the lower frames and keel exposed. All the deck timbers will be left exposed, except maybe half planking of the lower decks to facilitate the mounting of the cabin walls and bulkheads. I am glad you have plans to build this excellent kit. It is not difficult at all to change from POB to POF, just more woodwork involved but less rigging . I wish you well with your present Victory project. It is a great subject
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- Jan 10, 2022
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It has been a while since I last posted. That's because there is not really much to see. I have added the keelson, which fitted perfectly and also trimmed the frames to their correct heights, a time consuming task with little visual effect but I think it has cleaned up the shape of the hull rather well. I got the heights by measuring the depth of the jig in relation to the bottom of the keel and transferring this position onto the 1:1 drawing. Then it was a matter of taking the height of each frame. The amount of trimming needed varied from around 4 to 6 mm at the bow and stern to only up to 2 mm above the mid ship gun ports
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- Apr 20, 2020
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that going to be a beautiful hull of the ship, well done Keef
That’s looking very nice, Keith. Although it looks a small step, for sure it’s time consuming.
Regards, Peter
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2022
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Thank you. I very much appreciate your interest and commentthat going to be a beautiful hull of the ship, well done Keef
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- Jan 10, 2022
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It surely was, but I'm pleased with the result. Needs some small adjustments in places
Everything is looking really good. The fairing is extremely smooth.
Hard to tell how much taper on the knee of the head that you did from the photos but thought the following from the contract might be of interest.
Allan
The knee of the head to extend to the upper side of the upper cheek, to be 11¾ ins thick at the stem and 6 ins at the fore end
Hard to tell how much taper on the knee of the head that you did from the photos but thought the following from the contract might be of interest.
Allan
The knee of the head to extend to the upper side of the upper cheek, to be 11¾ ins thick at the stem and 6 ins at the fore end
Good morning Keith. You definitely know what you are doing. As always beautiful work. Cheers Grant
She is looking great !!
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- Jan 10, 2022
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THANKS Jeff
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2016
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Where do we get the height of the Cross Member on the stern please
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2016
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if you thought the Caldercraft Victory was Good And it is
This ENterprize is amazing
But really needs a lot of looking at as the instructions are not good
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- Jul 24, 2016
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i find a little touch of glue at top and bottom of the two smaller frames help align it
OK, a question for you.
I'm guessing from your pics you used the supplied cross piece for the transom ? One area I am conflicted about as the kit is not entirely historically accurate although I've done nothing but dry fit.
My question is thus...if you look at historical images, right below transom windows there is molding that stands proud of the flat sheet with windows that extends to edges and continues under doors until it ties into hull.....i.e.3 pieces.
I have actually made a curved piece that would be tight to bottom of transom and represent that moulding once I scrape the edges with a molding scraper.
Plan B, I suppose might be to consider molding after the fact, guessing this was how it was done much the same as above the Wales.
I think this will work....dry fit presents well, but still scratching my head.
Appreciate any thoughts.......trying to plan a few steps ahead.
Tim
Are you talking about part G7-3B? It is shown in step 114 for the stern.
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Hi Tim. I have not been able to get into my workshop, or concentrate on the build for a few weeks and maybe for some yet, due to health issues. Really looking forward to getting back and continuing as normal ASAP
Very sorry to hear that Keith ! I hope what ever it is passes quickly and you can get back to that wonderful ship you're building !