HMS Guadeloupe (ex french Le Nisus), Brick de 24 by Jack.Aubrey - 1:48 scale

[jack.aubrey]

Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Last monday I did nothing but today I started with good will to finish the inside of the bulwarks, removing , as scheduled, the excess of plywood toptimbers.

Initially I started using a method that produced few dust and which consisted of a blade of a small hacksaw for iron. I only used the blade, without the bow, and to use it I covered the ends with tape. Then, holding the blade folded properly, I started to cut the plywood in excess.

The method worked adeguately but then I had to sand and trim the corners with the deck that was impossible to achieve well in any way except by using abrasive blocks and wood cutters.

Then I wanted to try to use the belt sander BSL 220/E presented in one previous message and I immediately noticed a positive difference . . no effort and pace.
Of course, the bad side was the dust, in fact produced in great quantity, so much that I finally decided to leave and to complete the last remaining toptimbers tomorrow.

I spent the time I had left to suck the laboratory with a vacuum cleaner.

Below two pictures of the front of the hull, showing the inner sides of both right and left bulwarks nearly finished . .

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Instead at the poop there are still five toprtimbers per side I have left for tomorrow, which, however, give an idea of the work that had to be put on the track to get rid of the excess wood.

Finally, having already done much dust, I sanded adeguately the top of the bulwarks leveling the three layers of planks: this was a job that came with the belt sander incredibly ease: it is a tool that I highly recommend, of course for those who can afford it. .

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All for now, until next time, Jack.Aubrey.

 

[jack.aubrey]

Two other overall viewpoints, that do not add anything new to the work done the past Tuesday. .
Wednesday I finished the leveling of the aft toptimbers that I wasn't able to finish Tuesday. I used the "belt sander method" that definitely proved to be incredibly better than the other one I have described.
Regarding the wood dust . . patience, I finally sucked the workshop and the session ended there.
Regards, Jack.

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[jack.aubrey]

Thursday October 30, 2014

As I wrote Wednesday I finished leveling the remaining toptimbers aft. Using the belt sander it was resolved quickly and effortlessly. Below a couple of pictures as documentation of what has been done. .

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So Thursday I started to do something new, and the choice of what to do was to focus on the building of the deck, leaving pending, for the moment, the planking of the exterior sides of the hull.

The reason of this choice, which could be interpreted a bit twisted, is linked to the way in which the deck planking is applied. Let me explain better.
So far in all the models that I made, the planking of the decks was made up of straight planks not tapered, so that its implementation was relatively simple: you only needed a good deal of patience and precision and the result was assured.
But in this brick model the deck planks are not installed right but curved and tapered at the two ends of the ship.

The following illustration probably explains better the difference than a thousand words:

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So for me, this technique is considered to be a totally new experience and usually in these cases, due to my nature, I tend to proceed very carefully . .

Initially my idea was to apply the deck planks directly on the bulkheads, with tapered planks having a thickness of two millimeters apart from a small number of them, are located in the central part of the deck, with a greater thickness.
A have some ideas on how to proceed but, just to avoid possible unplanned problems, I finally decided to forget the original idea and build the deck with two layers of wood:
a) an underlying base, directly fixed to the bulkheads, made of plywood (of 1-1,5mm thickness) in order to completely close the deck and assure a uniform base on which
b) to lay the second layer, based on tapered planks of suitable thickness.

Consistently with this choice, I worked all afternoon to draw and cut out the inner profile of the deck. To realise these pieces, that must be considered as accurate templates from which derive the final plywood deck base, I used some unused poplar plywood, 4 millimeter thick.

Below you can see the templates, four for my comfortable working, obtained after continuous adjustments before getting the most accurate shape of the deck.

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Finally, I put together the four pieces with some adhesive tape in order to obtain only two pieces, the half-decks for the bow and stern. Now I just have to get plywood of the proper thickness, cut it according to these templates and apply it on the bulkheads, but I have to go to a hobby store and buy it.

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Maybe, before I'll start to install the planks on the real deck, I think to do a bit of experience installing the planks on these templates . . make a small prototyping usually helps to gain experience. . and to avoid stupid mistakes.

I'll continue in the next message. . Jack.

 

[jack.aubrey]

Continuation . .

Some images with the templates positioned to see the overall appearance . .

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Have a good weekend, this afternoon if I'll can go to buy the plywood then I'll have something to work on this weekend, otherwise I'll rest (there's Superbike races) or prototyping the planking . . I'll see.
Jack.

 

[jack.aubrey]

Saturday, November 1, 2014

Friday I managed successfully to buy at the last minute some birch plywood with a thickness of 2 mm at a hobbymodel shop.

I would have preferred a thickness of 1.5 mm, but was not available . . . today here in Italy these shops are increasingly focused on helicopters, drones, remote-controlled cars and its accessories while the offer that interests our hobby becomes increasingly scarce. . normally you find kits and few other.

However, despite having to take into account the impact ot this unplanned thickness on the internal height of the bulwarks (at the proper time I'll fix this matter), Saturday I cut out from the templates the two pieces that form the first layer of the deck and, after some unavoidable adjustements I proceeded to install them permanently with glue and brass nails.

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After a couple of hours, with the glue virtually dry, I proceeded to grind the heads of the brass nails (.. then I discovered that they were of gilded iron ..) with the minidrill and the correct tool. Now everything is ready for the installation of the final deck planking . .

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However, before proceeding with the deck planking I need to get hold of the suitable material and especially I need to finalize a method for applying the tapered and folded planks as I explained some message ago. I also have to choose the wood to use: I would like a pretty clear coloured wood, but not overly, and according to this choice I could use material already in my possession or try to purchase it somewhere. .

Greetings to all, Jack.

 

[jack.aubrey]

Monday, November 3rd, 2014

As I mentioned, prior to the application of the deck planks, I have some things to clarify that require a pause for reflection: the choice of the type of wood to use (light? Dark?) and tests to identify the best method for applying the tapered planks are a couple of topics that should be cleared with calm.

So as I leave to settle these issues, I decided to continue installing the planks on the hull, task interrupted just below the deck level. So in the coming days I will work in this direction.

It 's very likely that for some time you will see photos with the hull capsized more than anything else. . . .

Regards, Jack.

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[jack.aubrey]

Wednesday, November 5th, 2014

Yesterday I spent some time visiting two model shops looking for some wood strips suitable for planking the deck.

In the first shop I found the usual walnut, mahogany and lime; in addition I found beechwood.

In the second I found the same woods but, when I was loosing hope, I discovered in a corner some unusual strips and I was told it is OAK: the colour is perfect neither dark nor clear and also the size is right (2 x 6mm ). I bought all the strips stock and I have decided to use this wood to plank the deck of my brick . . .

Regards, Jack.

Friday, November 7th, 2014

The production of this last week has been rather poor: the bad weather, the need to study in detail a ANCRE plan, which I found (in my opinion) wrong, and the need to make some preparatory task to the work itself, which probably will start next week, all together influenced my poor productivity.

As preparatory work for the smoothing of the lower sides of the hull, to prepare the bulkheads with the correct bevel angle, I had to set up a large number of sanding blocks, which I show here below. .

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02 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/CAM00359_zps0dafe71f.jpg

I wrote before about the ANCRE plan. To my surprise, observing the planks of the deck, I noticed that there were no joints, as if the plank was a single piece of wood . . with a length of about 29 meters !!!
It's highly unlikely that this is true, then I have studied a solution in which a plank of the deck was composed of four sections of a more realistic size, say around seven meters.
Helped by the arrangement of the deck beams, as identified by the signs of the nails on the plan, I split the deck into sections and, after determining the correct distances on the drawing, I set out with a stroke of red pen on the real model false deck.

I also identified on the surface of the deck four lines (blue color even if they may appear black) which I have called "control stations" where the width of each strip of the planking, taken from the drawing, will be marked and will allow me to prepare the strip with the right shape and taper before applying it.

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As always, until next time, Jack.

 

[Uwek]

This is really a very good building log - many thanks for sharing this one in detail

 

[jack.aubrey]

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Today it's more than ten days that I do not add anything to this topic.

As I said in an exchange of SMS messages with my friend Shark, unfortunately between fall and winter I feel in a insane way the arrival of the cold season, and if in addition it's also raining, I became meteorologically addicted to the highest level.

So, given the incredibly bad weather that happened in Italy during these past days, I was not really able to find any will to do something against this model.

Only yesterday, with the return of a better weather, I started to do something.
Before the bad weather I successfully bevelled the bulkheads on the right side to setup as usual the classical bevel angle; there is still the left side missing.

Given that the hull is now crushproof, yesterday I decided to apply three strakes downwards on the ready-to-go side and this afternoon I installed other three of them.

There are no photos, but now it's time to do the same on the left side . . first I have to bevel the bulkheads to continue . .

Sincerely, Jack.

Saturday, November 22, 2014

Not too much to show about the work done since my "meteorological disease" has finally finished with the end of the rain: during this week I installed the "considerable" number of "nine" strakes of planks on the right side of the hull.

I publish below some pictures just to show something, but I do not think they are very enlightening.

In particular there are two aspects of some interest:
a) the first, positive, aspect is in the areas of midship and aft. The planking is growing very well, without the need of tapers and with the joints between the planks of total satisfaction and
b) the second, I would say negative, at the bow, where even in the presence of planks strong tapering, it is impossible to apply strights strips; here you should design planks starting from preformed strips probably 2.5-3cm wide and cut them accordingly to the shape of the hull. A job that involves an incredible waste of timber and without practical effects as it is expected the second planking.

So I adopted the technique to install some planks so that they follow their natural curvature on the hull even if this forces to end the strip earlier, with a diagonal cut. I remember the the process of preparing "ad hoc" planks would be much easier with the second planking due to the planned use of sheets of veneer from where can I get the due shape in the easiest way. Furthermore, to explain why also this efforts could be unuseful, under the waterline there will be the copper plates, so everything becomes a theoretical exercise because all this work will result invisible.

Usually every three/four strakes applied, I sand them in order to advance in parallel the planking and its sanding. This costs me less efforts than doing all the sanding the end and allows me to verify periodically the work done. In addition, since it's a matter to lose only few minutes, I avoid the temptation to use power tools that are usually very efficient but also very dangerous if their use is not careful and could result in damaging the work done: here I prefer the old-fashioned manual process.

Another trick that I usually adopt, is to pass a brushstroke of diluted PVA on the planks, this dries almost immediately and helps to seal better the grooves between the strakes and strengthens the wood surface. It is a little trick and/or fixation that probably every modeller holds in his past experiences.

Now, however, I have no more excuses: the next activities are to get the same results on the left side of the model. In fact I cannot proceed on this side with the planking otherwise my building slip is no longer usable. I prefer, once finished the left side, use this building slip and his undeniable stability to apply the deck planking: a new and stimulating experience. .

Sincerely, Jack.Aubrey.

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[jack.aubrey]

Friday, November 28th, 2014

This week, again, wasn't much productive, this because my now well known " meteorological ....". Finally yesterday I got the will to resume work: I continued managing the left side of the model.

Shortly:
- fix up the bulkheads on the left side to level them and create the right bevel angle; after the first experience on the other side, this time I went a lot faster and I finished this task within one hour during the morning. A quick housekeeping with the vacuum cleaner to fix the workshop and yesterday morning was over with satisfaction.
- During the afternoon I dedicated myself to apply the planking on the side just beveled. At the end of the session I achieved to install four plank strakes after which I needed to leave everything dry. I'll continue next Saturday.

The first photo you see here below shows the left side of the model; here the situation is still "Work in progress" . . All the nails used to hold the planks are still in place and must be removed. Remember that these nails are not completely hammered and are easily removable with small pliers. Only a very small part of them are fully hammered and will be smoothed together with the planks.

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Next three images show the right side, where you can see it is no longer possible to install new planks because of the building slip vertical supports. This building slip, when also the left side will be equal, will lost its original purpose.
But first I want to use it during the deck planking.
This side have been smoothed and there are no more steps, grooves or humps.

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Regards, Jack.Aubrey

 

[jack.aubrey]

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Yesterday I finally "finished" to install the planking on the hull.

As "finished" I clearly don't mean to have the entire hull planked, up to the keel but, as you can view, achieving the result to have installed on both sides the same number of strakes. Now I have to stop, otherwise I need to throw the building slip. I'll continue the remaining after the completion of the deck when the building slip at that point will not be useful anymore.

However, even if the shell is not completely finished, it's possible to see quite well the lines of the hull, which I like very much and which have nothing to do with the bulging and rounded forms of galleons and vessels I built until now .

This time the photos were shot with a digital camera, not with the smartphone, and are definitely better than the last published in my two previous posts.

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Until now I haven't encountered any particular problem while laying the planks. However I must admit that really it's not a easy hull. The bow seemed easier at the beginning, instead of at some point things got a little complicated. Aft however, where it seemed the hardest part so far has been a lot easier. Anyway these matters will be discussed in the next posts.

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Regards, Jack.Aubrey.

 

[jack.aubrey]

First two images show the entire hull capsized, on both sides. As you can see we are slightly more than halfway even if, maybe, the most complex part should be overcome. As my habit, as I progress with the planking, I level the surface with sandpaper. In this way I have left less work to do at the end.

01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100103_zps304bb4f3.jpg

02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100104_zps775ae2a7.jpg

In the next image I'm showing a trick I use when I can not avoid gaps between a strip and its neighbouring. Keep in mind that this normally occurs over a small area, not on the entire strake. In this case, instead of sanding the higher strip, reducing its thickness, I prefer to paste another small strip on the lower strake. Next, when the glue is totally dry, I level properly the whole without the need to reduce the thickness of the plank in the involved area.

In the picture shown below you can see three pieces of this kind ready to be sanded and if you look more in deep near them you will see two areas already leveled. They are distinguished by a color slightly different.

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You can also see that the last two strakes downwards are interrupted before the bow and are cut diagonally. This solution is viable thanks to the fact that the double planking is planned and this allows to use a normal straight strip. To avoid this "trick" would be necessary to start from a much wider strip and cut out the right shape to follow the lines of the hull. I think those who are used to single planking know what I mean.

During the second planking this situation will happen again. However, having the intention to use for this second pass sheets of veneer from which to derive the strips, I should be able to adopt the correct method more easily and with less waste of timber. .

. . but we must also take into account that the hull will be covered with copper plates and, if this area will stay below the waterline these critical efforts may be waste of time. In that case I would not complicate my life to do something that will not be visible.

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Finally, the stern. From what you can see from the photo below you probably understand that the transom is sharp corner shaped . . but it does not. In the model it is expected the transom be rounded. Here, too, I adopted another trick to speed up the laying of the first planking (it's 2mm thick). With such a thickness it's not easy to bend the strip to give it the rounded shape of the stern, so I made sure to have a very large underlying base on which pasting the strip with no need of bending but being sure it rests perfectly on the whole underlying base. Subsequently I'll shape round everything (obviously removing the brass nails) without problems being practically a block of wood and I'll have to worry about bending the strips only for the second planking, but with the thickness of 0.5mm. Definitely a much easier job.

But I must admit, to be honest, that it's the first time I try this "trick" . . hope it works.

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I stop here this long exposure, not easy to describe only with words.
If someone do not understand what I wrote, which is highly likely, seen the way I explain probably not much clear and in a foreign, for me, language, please do not worry to ask for further clarification.
Regards, Jack.

 

[jack.aubrey]

Since I still uploaded more photos on the "cloud" and it costs nothing to show, I add a few more additional images of the brick, taken on the same day of the last messages.

The heads of the brass nails were leveled and do not bother, so I do not intend to remove them. With the second planking they will obviously disappear. Jack.

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[jack.aubrey]

Friday December 5, 2014

Yesterday was a indeterminate day and I decided to do some tests to simulate the caulking of the deck.
I enclose a couple of pictures with two samples obtained with two different methods.
The first image was shot in "natural light", if we can call "natural" the gray sky due to these rainy days, for the second I used the flash: there is a noticeable colors difference . .

upper sample: I used graphite. I bought a pencil with the softer tip available on the market. Also the charcoal was available but it did not seem fit for purpose. I very carefully blackened the the thickness side of the strip.

lower sample: between a strip and the other I put a strip of black "Bristol board". The application is more complex and also the final polishing is not less. But if you use card strips of the same height of the wood strips it works much better.

PS: the strips are the ones that I would most probably use, oak wood, and are already treated with wood oil, then this will be the final color. The grain is rather coarse, perhaps too much, but I really like it. This wood strips are also very, very hard . . As possible alternative to oak there is the lime wood, where probably the first system of caulking should give a more appreciable result. With oak wook I prefer the second. Probably I'll need another similar test with lime .

What do you think ?

Regards, Jack.

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[jack.aubrey]

Thursday, December 11, 2014

I did other tests with the planking for the decks . . also because I did not have much time to do other.

In addition to the test I made a few days ago with strips of oak, I tried with the limewood and the Tanganyika. I've always approached two solutions, graphite and bristol paper/card, but, regarding bristol, I used a more thin type compared to the first test.
The result is more delicate that before. Also graphite method on limewood achieves virtually the same final result.

I'm thinking to proceed in the following way:

- 5 strips of oak with bristol paper for the central part of the deck;
- 1 strip of Tanganyika per side as the master plank;
- several strips of limewood for the external sides, using graphite, being the result almost similar but the application is considerably more simple.

Eventually, as a variant, I could plank also the central part with limewood. The Tanganyika is too dark and there are too many differences in color between strips.

Now I'm thinking about how to make the waterway, task to be made before the deck planking. I'll start with a square 4 x 4 or 5 x 5 beechwood that needs to be properly shaped with an equip I am preparing, hoping that it works.

Hello, Jack.Aubrey.

. . oak wood . .
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100134_zpsb5399f99.jpg

. . limewood . .
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. . tanganyika . .
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. . all together . .
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. . al together with flash light . .
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[Norway]

limewood looks very good in my opinion, then it becomes much easier to see small details that are mounted later on.

 

[Jimsky]

IMHO, Tanganyika looks a bit dark. If you will varnish the deck with oils it will make it even darker. I like the way limewood looks. Are you planning to treenail deck?

 

[jack.aubrey]

limewood looks very good in my opinion, then it becomes much easier to see small details that are mounted later on.

Hi,
limewood was my choice, you'll see in the next posts. Regards, Jack.

 

[jack.aubrey]

IMHO, Tanganyika looks a bit dark. If you will varnish the deck with oils it will make it even darker. I like the way limewood looks. Are you planning to treenail deck?

Infact I choosed limewod. Mainly for the same reason. I plan to treenail the deck, with a personal and crazy method, but this task is still far away. Regards, Jack.

 

[jack.aubrey]

Friday, December 19, 2014

After spending the last week to experiment in search of the most suitable timber for the deck planking and having tried a couple of methods to simulate the caulking, this week I dedicated myself to perform some preliminary tasks to deck planking.

First, it was evident the need to first install the waterways. Last week I prepared a simple tool to hold the wood strip at an angle to be able to smooth on one side giving him the classic triangular shape.
The first image here below, in fact a drawing, shows on the left this "tool".
It is formed by gluing together two pieces of plywood that have been cut on a side at 45 degrees. Glued as shown by the design they formed a stable base on which to place the square wood strip I needed to obtain the waterways. I used the Proxxon sanding disc to level the part to be removed.

Also on the right of the drawing it is shown the shape of the waterways, which is not triangular, as at first glance you might think but must take into account the thickness of the planks of the deck and bulwarks, to be applied later.

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Here are some pictures with the waterways installed. .

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A peculiarity of this waterways, which led to a job quite long and complex is at the bow.
As for the rest of the hull it was enough to use a strip of beechwood suitably shaped, the part at the bow, visible in the picture below, has had to be constructed in a completely different way.
A part the curvature, here the waterways starts with a dimension of a square 4 x 4 and ends at the tip with a size of 5 x 9. This is because in the waterways, at the bow, will be located the holes for the hawse-holes. For this task, building this segment of the waterways, I got to do a "creative" use of the band saw.

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See you soon with a new task I did'nt absolutely expect, due to a initial design mistake. Regards, Jack.