- Joined
- Sep 28, 2020
- Messages
- 285
- Points
- 168
Fat bottomed girls you make the rocking world go `round!
-
"LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY RAFFLE"
Luczorama is proud to launch a 4-week scavenger hunt giveaway packed with creativity, laughs, and nautical nonsense. Explore historic ships, solve easy clues, and have some fun with fellow builders. Complete weekly missions to earn raffle entries — the more you join in, the better your chance to win a Fram model ship by OcCre!
**VIEW RULES HERE**
Приветствую! Ширину досок выбирал исходя из музейной модели: считал на ней количество поясьев и делил на него ширину поверхности. В подводной части рейки вышли 7мм шириной, по мне - это многовато даже для моего периода - 15 дюймов в пересчете, не уверен, что такой ширины доски действительно использовали, так что вопрос это дискутируемый. В надводной части рейки поуже - от 4 до 6 мм. Все сегменты между бархоутами переменной ширины вдоль поверхности, так что все поясья подгоняются по месту без исключения. В подводной части все рейки заужаются к форштевню и от 7мм на миделе приходят где-то к 4.7мм у форштевня. В сторону ахтерштевня они тоже заужаются, а затем после места минимальной ширины опять расширяются и становятся у ахтерштевня чуть больше 7 мм шириной. У меня был выбор - вставить потеряи или сделать как на музейной без потеряев, использовав пару реек большей ширины, я выбрал вариант как на музейной без потеряев.
Greetings! I was choosing the width of the strakes based on the museum model: I counted the number of strakes on it and divided the width of the surface by it. In the underwater part, the palnks came out 7mm wide, for me - this is a bit too much even for my period - 15 inches in real world, I'm not sure wether such wide boards were really used, so this is a debated question. In the above-the-water part of the hull they are narrower - from 4 to 6 mm. All the segments between the whales are of variable width along the surface, so that all planks should be locally fit in place without exception. In the underwater part, all the planks taper towards the stem from 7mm midships to around 4.7mm at the stem. Towards the sternpost, they also narrow, and then, after the place of minimum width, they expand again and become slightly more than 7 mm wide at the sternpost. I had a choice - to insert a lost strakes or make it like on the museum model without them, using a couple of wider planks, I chose the option as on the museum model without lost strakes.
Very good - accurate and clean symetrical work - VERY well done my friend !!!
Hi Oleg!
You get on very quickly, with very nice result!
Best regards
Thomas
You get on very quickly, with very nice result!
Best regards
Thomas
Thank you everyone!
I can't say that it was in no time, the complete external planking took me 2 months. As for the planks, I order them from my supplier based on my dimensions
Thats really excellent workmanship. Well done. 
she is getting a beauty - a fat one, and a beautiful one
I can fully understand youI like her curves actually
Incredible work. I cannot believe how good that is.
So you are already well prepared for the nailing and treenailing of your hull - very good
Did you check the pencil marks at the bow? I have the feeling, that they reach with the same width / distance the keel similar at midships.
But this can be also easily the "wrong" persepctive with not looking not upright to the keel axis
Often at the bow the framing was completely different, so that often the nailing lines are getting closer to each other nearer to the keel
This is the drawing, but it is representing the framing of the contemporary model
Other (more modern) ships
These examples only to show what I mean - only to be sure, that the pencil marks are correct - often some mistakes happen at this area with the nailing
Did you check the pencil marks at the bow? I have the feeling, that they reach with the same width / distance the keel similar at midships.
But this can be also easily the "wrong" persepctive with not looking not upright to the keel axis
Often at the bow the framing was completely different, so that often the nailing lines are getting closer to each other nearer to the keel
This is the drawing, but it is representing the framing of the contemporary model
Other (more modern) ships
These examples only to show what I mean - only to be sure, that the pencil marks are correct - often some mistakes happen at this area with the nailing
Well there should be no cant frames on this ship, they were introduced later. So the last frame at the bow is the one where the beakhead bulkhead is built. The rest of the space is filled with hawsepieces. I'm assuming that on this ship they are constant width, like this:
I do not pretend to be 100% right, I'm not that much good in theory, but that's what I choose. In any case, on finished model, the nailing at this place is so dense, that it's hard to see any pattern
I do not pretend to be 100% right, I'm not that much good in theory, but that's what I choose. In any case, on finished model, the nailing at this place is so dense, that it's hard to see any pattern
