Very elegant reproduction of the stairs Kurt. Fitting for this ship. Congratulations on your clever solution.
Hi Kurt, this might have been answered in other build posts but how does the Sharpie pen ink stain hold up once you use a finish for your deck planks? Is it the permanent type Sharpie? Thanks.The evening was spent mass producing 80mm tanganika deck planks. Because 4mm wide tanganika strips were not available, 5mm strips were ripped with a bandsaw to 4mm. A mechanical pencil and a jig was used to speed up the process of marking the trenails on the ends of the planks. A brown Sharpie pen was used to stain one edge of each plank, which is sufficient to create the effect of the tar sealed seams, and long as all the planks are oriented with the darkened edge in the same direction.
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The Sharpie is a permanent marker. I use the brown one since the black offered too much contrast, and I only mark one side each plank, not both, or the lines on the deck become too prominent. If the stain of the edges were to fade a bit with time, that would actually work to your advantage by making the lines more subtle. Below is a good example of the results. The lines are not as smooth as on many models, owing to the unevenness of the wood grain, and the propensity of the marker dye to soak into the wood if you apply too much, and the effect suggests variation on the seam widths. Keep in mind these are 4mm wide planks. If you require smoother and even lines, there are other methods. This method is quick and dirty.Hi Kurt, this might have been answered in other build posts but how does the Sharpie pen ink stain hold up once you use a finish for your deck planks? Is it the permanent type Sharpie? Thanks.
I’m enjoying your build and posts, lots of great information.
The Sharpie is a permanent marker. I use the brown one since the black offered too much contrast, and I only mark one side each plank, not both, or the lines on the deck become too prominent. If the stain of the edges were to fade a bit with time, that would actually work to your advantage by making the lines more subtle. Below is a good example of the results. The lines are not as smooth as on many models, owing to the unevenness of the wood grain, and the propensity of the marker dye to soak into the wood if you apply too much, and the effect suggests variation on the seam widths. Keep in mind these are 4mm wide planks. If you require smoother and even lines, there are other methods. This method is quick and dirty.
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Yes, you have to choose what you like. I really don't do a lot of experimenting and use simple processes, so my results are not tip top, but they work.Thanks Kurt, as always a helpful response based on your experience. It was the issue of the ink running into the grain of the planks I was wondering about.
I guess it’s a matter of experimenting with different methods, finishes and woods.
Nice finish carpentry...Sometimes when you make a mistake, you need to come up with a clever repair. During deck planking, the positive wire for the lighting if the forecastle broke off under the deck. Instead of ripping up the deck and repairing the wire, the positive wire for the sterncastle would provide voltage for the forecastle LED's. To do this, a new wire was run along the edge of the deck from the stern. This wire needed to be hidden, so the waterway was placed over the top of it.
The waterways were mays from 1mm strips of tanganyika wood left over from cutting 5mm strips down to 4mm strips. I'm glad I saved these scraps, because they are perfect to make scale waterway strips. A green Scotchbrite pad and a sanding block was used to strip the dangling fibers from the strips. Then PVA glue was used to glue the waterway strips in place, and Q-tip cotton swabs were effective at cleaning out excess glue from the corner where the deck meets the bulwark. This was delicate work, but the result looks good.
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The end of the waterboard strip was anchored to the deck with PVA glue before proceeding to glue the rest of the strip.
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Finished waterboard on the port side.
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Finished waterboard on the starboard side.
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Whether or not to 1) place the spar deck gratings in place, 2) leave them all off but show ledges where they are supported on the forecastle and halfdeck bulkheads and other support points, or 3) show some of the gratings but not all of them like the Annapolis model is something I have yet to decide upon. The Annapolis model seems the most accurate with regard to the spar deck construction.The annapolis model look with the gratings is certainly one to consider as this is also the layout you see on the John Payne etsching and also on the van de velde drawing. If these gratings were present in war time then the stair would have been elsewhere.
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Good morning Kurt- all above my Pay grade however awesome to read and learn both the intricacies of these ships and how think out a plan going forward. Cheers GrantWhether or not to 1) place the spar deck gratings in place, 2) leave them all off but show ledges where they are supported on the forecastle and quarterdeck bulkheads and other support points, or 3) show some of the gratings but not all of them like the Annapolis model is something I have yet to decide upon. The Annapolis model seems the most accurate with regard to the spar deck construction.
Full spar decks on the waist and quarterdeck would show the ship as it originally would have seen combat in the first years of its life before the first refit, but make it impossible to see any deck details. Something to ponder on. Perhaps using some miniature figures lifting spars and grates into place and assembling the spar decks with the help of the garnet tackles over the waist is an option.