HMS Victory Cross Section, POF ,Scale 1:48 by Raymond Deliz

Has anyone here ever ordered anything from Cornwall Model Boats or Mantua Models in the UK? I need gun port drip shields and 18mm tall columns for my VICTORY cross section and these are the only companies I have found that carry them. Just wondering if they are reliable, if anyone has had problems getting parts from either of these two companies, etc. Model Expo here in Miami, FL does not carry either of these two items.
 
ziled68 said:
Hello Everyone,
It has been over a year since I've retired from the military and I finally find myself at liberty to follow my dream, construction of a cross section of the HMS Victory. I must confess that the liberty I am currently enjoying is a break from the my wife's "Honey-Do" list so I will try to get as much done as possible. Please do not misunderstand that I will sacrifice details in order to speed through the process but rather understand that I will give 100% attention to the construction of my project while also trying to please my wife. Everyone here should understand the, "Happy Wife, Happy Life" concept so if I disappear for a spell, know this, my wife is the Admiral and what she says goes.

I fell in love with the aspect of one day being able to scratch build a cross section of the HMS Victory. I acquired the AOTS The 100-gun ship Victory by John Mckay and HMS Victory Owners' Workshop Manual by Peter Goodwin. Both books have extensive details and I must point out that Mr. Goodwin's book has a lot more historical information and plenty of colored photos from different areas aboard the HMS Victory for reference. There is plenty of information within both books for a person to feel comfortable enough to take on this challenge. The challenging part for me was to decide how large of a cross section I wanted to build. I previously constructed a cross section of the HMS Triton but did not add enough frames to incorporate the full main channel, thus not having enough space to add all of the ratlines. With this in mind, I decided to go ahead and order plans from Mr. Mckay.

After doing research and finally getting an email address, I was able to get in contact with Mr. Mckay back in January 2019. Mr. Mckay was an absolute delight to work with and after discussing which sheets of his drawings I wanted at 1:48 scale, we exchanged information so as to send him his funds via Paypal. Once the funds cleared, Mr. Mckay sent me my drawings and I could not have been more pleased with them. If Mr. Mckay is any sign of Canadian hospitality and professionalism, then I must say that Mr. Mckay is an ambassador for our neighbors to the North. So Mr. Mckay, if you ever read this post, many thanks for your hospitality and professionalism.

Now that I have the drawings on hand, I am able to decide how large of a cross section I want to tackle. Since I want to add all of the main mast's ratlines, I have decided to start from frame (B) going aft to frame 17 in order to have the full main channel on my cross section. I also want to add the main mast all the way up to the main pole mast. Once completed, the cross section will be massive. She will be 55 1/2 inches (140.97 cm) tall from sole plate to main pole mast and 31 inches (78.74 cm) wide from either side of the main lower studding sail booms.

Since I decided to go from frames (B) to frame 17, I placed tracing paper of the drawings and finally have patterns to work with. I chose this method because I did not want to ruin the original drawings so as to keep them pristine as long as possible. After completing the drawings, I could not resist and wanted to compare one of my drawings to one of the drawings of guild's group project, the Blanford. Talk about one huge difference. The Blandford, at frame 1, is a modest 7 inches (17.78 cm) wide while the Victory, at frame (B) is a whopping 12 1/2 inches (31.75 cm) wide.

Below are a few photos of what I have thus far. Please enjoy and I look forward to updating everyone with my progress.

Raymond
Click to expand...
Hallo @ziled68
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Birthday-Cake
Enjoy your special day
 
ziled68 said:
Hello Everyone,
It has been over a year since I've retired from the military and I finally find myself at liberty to follow my dream, construction of a cross section of the HMS Victory. I must confess that the liberty I am currently enjoying is a break from the my wife's "Honey-Do" list so I will try to get as much done as possible. Please do not misunderstand that I will sacrifice details in order to speed through the process but rather understand that I will give 100% attention to the construction of my project while also trying to please my wife. Everyone here should understand the, "Happy Wife, Happy Life" concept so if I disappear for a spell, know this, my wife is the Admiral and what she says goes.

I fell in love with the aspect of one day being able to scratch build a cross section of the HMS Victory. I acquired the AOTS The 100-gun ship Victory by John Mckay and HMS Victory Owners' Workshop Manual by Peter Goodwin. Both books have extensive details and I must point out that Mr. Goodwin's book has a lot more historical information and plenty of colored photos from different areas aboard the HMS Victory for reference. There is plenty of information within both books for a person to feel comfortable enough to take on this challenge. The challenging part for me was to decide how large of a cross section I wanted to build. I previously constructed a cross section of the HMS Triton but did not add enough frames to incorporate the full main channel, thus not having enough space to add all of the ratlines. With this in mind, I decided to go ahead and order plans from Mr. Mckay.

After doing research and finally getting an email address, I was able to get in contact with Mr. Mckay back in January 2019. Mr. Mckay was an absolute delight to work with and after discussing which sheets of his drawings I wanted at 1:48 scale, we exchanged information so as to send him his funds via Paypal. Once the funds cleared, Mr. Mckay sent me my drawings and I could not have been more pleased with them. If Mr. Mckay is any sign of Canadian hospitality and professionalism, then I must say that Mr. Mckay is an ambassador for our neighbors to the North. So Mr. Mckay, if you ever read this post, many thanks for your hospitality and professionalism.

Now that I have the drawings on hand, I am able to decide how large of a cross section I want to tackle. Since I want to add all of the main mast's ratlines, I have decided to start from frame (B) going aft to frame 17 in order to have the full main channel on my cross section. I also want to add the main mast all the way up to the main pole mast. Once completed, the cross section will be massive. She will be 55 1/2 inches (140.97 cm) tall from sole plate to main pole mast and 31 inches (78.74 cm) wide from either side of the main lower studding sail booms.

Since I decided to go from frames (B) to frame 17, I placed tracing paper of the drawings and finally have patterns to work with. I chose this method because I did not want to ruin the original drawings so as to keep them pristine as long as possible. After completing the drawings, I could not resist and wanted to compare one of my drawings to one of the drawings of guild's group project, the Blanford. Talk about one huge difference. The Blandford, at frame 1, is a modest 7 inches (17.78 cm) wide while the Victory, at frame (B) is a whopping 12 1/2 inches (31.75 cm) wide.

Below are a few photos of what I have thus far. Please enjoy and I look forward to updating everyone with my progress.

Raymond

​
Click to expand...
Hello, great job, can you help me with Mr. McKay's contact information in private? I am very interested in acquiring the plans, I would appreciate it.
 
ziled68 said:
Greetings,
Since I have completed the keel, (with the exception of the bolts via the keel's scarf joints) I decided to start on the actual frames. I started out with frame (B) and cut timber to the desired thickness. I did notice on the actual plans I got from Mr. Mckay, that the upper sections of all frames started to get thinner and thought that it would also be a great idea to incorporate it on my build.

Since I have to use timber of various thicknesses, I have to ensure that I place certain patterns aside in order to use them on their corresponding timbers so as not to confuse myself. Once I had all the timber ready, I cut the copy of the frame assembly (B) and glued them to the correct boards. Once the glue dried, I proceeded to cut each section of the frame on my bandsaw and placed them to the side. While the bandsaw does save a lot of time, it tends to leave cut shavings on the lower edge that needs to be sanded smooth before I can dry fit them together with plastic clothes pins.

There were minor adjustments that needed to be addressed on all joints but was easily fixed with sand paper and/or sanding sticks. Once I was happy with the proper joints, I turned my attention to removal of the glued on patterns. When the patterns were finally removed, I placed a piece of glass over the original drawing and commenced gluing the frame sections together making certain that they followed the contour of the frame.

After the glue was dry, I removed the clothes pins from the frame and gently removed the frame from the glass. At this moment I realized that not all joints were as perfect as I would have liked. What I did to correct this was to add a little glue on any gaps that I saw, scrape the excess off, and finally sand the area with a section of fine sandpaper while it was still wet. This caused the fine dust to settle into the gap resulting in a much tighter looking seam between sections.

Once I was content with the first half of frame (B), I concentrated on working on the second half. The majority of Mr. Mckay's drawings show the middle of each double frames looking aft. There are a few references within his book that show how double frames overlap each sections joints but it left me wanting more. This is when I turned to Mr. Goodwin's book and found the information I was looking for in regards to the overlapping joints. Now that I had a nice warm and fuzzy, I started work on the second half of the frame.

To make it easier to draw the second frame, I placed the first half on top of a sheet of paper and used it as a stencil. Once I had the overall shape of the frame, I placed tick marks on the sheet of paper where all the joints to the first half were so as to ensure I would not draw scarf joints in the same area on the second half of the frame. That complete, I then concentrated on marking new areas on one half of the drawing. Once I was content with the overall appearance, I folded the drawing in half and mirrored the other side. It was a matter of repeating the same process as for the first half with the difference that now I could actually glue them on top of the first frame. Once the glue dried, I addressed any gaps. Honestly, I am pretty pleased with how she came out.

I will work on the other frames and post them once I have finished all of them seeing as it doesn't make much sense to keep repeating the information above for each frame. The following photos will show you the process I took and how frame (B) looks so far with the thinner boards on top.

Raymond
Click to expand...
Have you considered taking these plans to an Office Max, Staples, ect? They can make exact copies of these plans. I did this with great success before starting to build my VICTORY cross-section and VASA models. I "filed" away the originals and use the copies for markups, measurements, etc. It was not very expensive to copy 7 or 8 sheets.
 
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