Krick “Alert” U.S. Cutter, 1/25 scale

Wow, those are some bad cutouts in the deck. Looks like a lot of trimming.
I seem to remember trimming a little on my model but yours looks like a couple millimeters.
 
Rowboat said:
Wow, those are some bad cutouts in the deck. Looks like a lot of trimming.
I seem to remember trimming a little on my model but yours looks like a couple millimeters.
Click to expand...

I placed a temporary plank against the bulkheads just below the false deck. Haven’t done any fairing of the bulkheads yet, I was interested to see if I could get an idea of how much I had to trim.

0ACFEF46-F657-47DD-B36E-EC27CEF4E63C.jpeg
Looking from the top of the false keel down the overlap is quite noticeable and almost the same on the Port and Starboard sides.

Jan
 
Hi Jan

You had some expert advice already I see.

First, I had no doubt that your deck would be centred (hence the equal overlaps) - so no need to fret about that.
Second: I would much rather have an overlapping deck than one that is cut too small.
Third: Shape it to size at the same time that you fair the bulkheads.

Some of the better kit manufacturers (of which Krick is undoubtedly one) may engineer a bit of an overlap as a safety margin to cater for individual building styles.

Good luck!
 
Heinrich said:
Hi Jan

You had some expert advice already I see.

First, I had no doubt that your deck would be centred (hence the equal overlaps) - so no need to fret about that.
Second: I would much rather have an overlapping deck than one that is cut too small.
Third: Shape it to size at the same time that you fair the bulkheads.

Some of the better kit manufacturers (of which Krick is undoubtedly one) may engineer a bit of an overlap as a safety margin to cater for individual building styles.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Heinrich,

Thank you for the reply. I thought the same thing about the overlap. It occurred to me that there was a “fudge” factor engineered into the dimensions of the deck. The fit of the slots In deck to the bulkheads was almost a snap fit. There was no room for any side to side play. Even the fit of the bulkheads into the slots of the keel was like a snap fit, also without any side play.

I agree as I fair the bulkheads I’ll be able to see how much “excess deck“ needs to be removed.

I would mention that the kit is not for a novice builder. I read the steps required, look at the plans, make a quick sketch of what I think I need to do and visualize the process. I dry fit as much as possible before the glueing starts.

Jan
 
My opinion ....

For high quality kits there is no reason to have a "fudge" factor.
With the precision of the CNC machines today it is unacceptable for things like this.

I've built some of the UGEARS cnc machined wooded models and there tolerances are almost exact.

Clearly some of the model ship parts are designed to be made by the modeler but for those that are not ..... better quality control !

By pacifying these retailers we make it acceptable for them to continue producing lower quality products.

No way should we be making excuses for their lack of quality control.

Apologies for the rant ....

Rowboat
 
No better place then model ship kits does the old saying apply: "you get what you pay for"

Cheap kits from unknown unbranded manufactures I think are just what your getting, ask me how I have been burned, thinking I was buying a bargain of name brand kit only not paying attention to fine details and get bad beginners kit.
 
Hmm don’t know what to say guys.

My kit originated from this Kit Supplier. I would say the quality of the material and instructions far surpasses any minor problems in assembling the kit.

Jan
 
Pathfinder65,

My rant is more about my purchase and build that I'm currently working on.
I seem to have deflected my issues onto your build kit, apologies.
:oops:
 
Hi Jan. I am with you on that one. I think that the quality of a kit is a great confidence builder for the modeller. If you know you have a great kit there are no excuses. When something goes wrong, we only have ourselves to blame. On the other hand, a sub-standard kit has exactly the opposite effect as the modeller is constantly second-guessing and doubting his own abilities.
 
Heinrich said:
Hi Jan. I am with you on that one. I think that the quality of a kit is a great confidence builder for the modeller. If you know you have a great kit there are no excuses. When something goes wrong, we only have ourselves to blame. On the other hand, a sub-standard kit has exactly the opposite effect as the modeller is constantly second-guessing and doubting his own abilities.
Click to expand...

Indeed, with my limited experience this kit is superior in my opinion to my last three.

Jan
 
First Planking:

I'm getting ready to do the first planking of the hull. I've worked my through You Tube tutorials, article from the internet and several books on the subject. The bow portion of the hull is a concern. I can't figure out how to start the planks so they lay up snug without them looking like clinker build.

Jan
 
Holding thumbs. Can you post some pictures of the bow area? Maybe I can give you some suggestions.
 
Hi Heinrich,

My problem is the fit at the first two bulkheads.


15B5FC51-70DE-4204-A8FE-14D31F6B4271.jpeg
Test plank bent to fit. Fits ok along deck but does not lay flush with the bow filler.

6CF623ED-59F7-4BD8-91EB-762C8BFBBAC6.jpeg
Should the plank be beveled on the bottom edge?
DFC8F6F9-D334-451C-8273-8381D6374CF9.jpeg

Full length plank on s’board side. Bow area shows the same problem.

BAC0D388-DE3F-44E6-A351-63DD357820ED.jpeg
I realize the planks need to be tapered as the planks are placed, but it seems that the first one is the most critical.

Jan
 
BTW:

The masking tape on top of the bulkheads is to prevent gluing the bulwarks to them when I get to that stage of the build. The tops of the bulkheads get removed before the deck is planked.

Jan
 
Jan, I have not bevelled (or chamfered) any of my planks - tapered yes - bevelled, no. I would take the time to alter the shape of the bow filler until those planks lie flat. I can tell you right now what happened. The filler runs at too much of an angle downwards towards the keel. I had exactly the same problem. I would add some more balsa to the filler, reshape at a less acute angle and try again. The first plank should never need to be bevelled while I only did tapering from about plank 4 or 5.
 
Heinrich said:
Jan, I have not bevelled (or chamfered) any of my planks - tapered yes - bevelled, no. I would take the time to alter the shape of the bow filler until those planks lie flat. I can tell you right now what happened. The filler runs at too much of an angle downwards towards the keel. I had exactly the same problem. I would add some more balsa to the filler, reshape at a less acute angle and try again. The first plank should never need to be bevelled while I only did tapering from about plank 4 or 5.
Click to expand...
Heinrich,
That is great advice, I sort came to the same conclusion. I added some left over second planking as shims over the bow filler adjusting the shape until my two test planks laid flat and butted up against each other.

I will definitely redo that portion of the build.

This morning was spent calculating the amount of taper required at the bow and stern for the planks and marking the bulkheads.

But our pool looks awfully inviting and the water and air temperatures are just right. Time to go float :cool:

Jan
 
1st plank:

I‘m still struggling with the start of the planking. The instructions in English note the 1st plank should lay at the bottom edge of the false deck.

7CF51B9D-462C-4807-B2ED-8965C5515A89.jpeg

But the manuals cross section of the hull shows the bottom of the 1st plank slightly higher than the false deck or its top even with the final deck planking.

57A1DF62-4F35-4BA4-8198-5123CF400133.jpeg9F2C07C9-49CD-4459-A31F-E0B0608A3760.jpeg
This seems to agree with build manual if I‘m readIng the German correctly.

CE03E606-6D86-4D8B-9B77-38B9BDDD1F30.jpeg

Jan
 
Hi Jan!

P7310301.JPG

Lasered kit planks from kit manufacturers look similar. This can often be seen in the kit presentation. You only have to bend these planks in one direction (the wide side)

There are no pre-bent planks in the kit Alert. You have to bend them in all directions.


I don't have the Alert. But I know that the first plank in the kit is misrepresented. The only thing that helps here is to measure and mark on the frame.

With best regards
Thomas
 
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