La Belle - Caf Model 1:48 by Thomas Marocke [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter Thomas Marocke
- Start date
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That’s a truly beautiful finish Thomas. Well done!
Awesome results, love it!
Yep that is a true story. Perfect.
Excellent job Thomas!
That's a SLAM DUNK for final presentation, Thomas. Very nicely done!
Thanks for the likes and comments!
The "La Belle" is not ready yet.
It still needs a worthy präsentation stand. The assembly stand of the kit is too simple.
Three holders of 8 mm pear wood were made. In the progress, I discovered that I absolutely need new wood files. Laser-cut components are easier to work on, since only the char must be removed.The middle support lies exactly under the three-part middle frame and protect the model against tipping over.
Now I have to assemble all components and paint the presentation board colorless, so that the beautiful wood grains look better.
All a nice weekend
Thomas
The "La Belle" is not ready yet.
It still needs a worthy präsentation stand. The assembly stand of the kit is too simple.
Three holders of 8 mm pear wood were made. In the progress, I discovered that I absolutely need new wood files. Laser-cut components are easier to work on, since only the char must be removed.The middle support lies exactly under the three-part middle frame and protect the model against tipping over.
Now I have to assemble all components and paint the presentation board colorless, so that the beautiful wood grains look better.
All a nice weekend
Thomas
The presentation board is ready assembled and painted. First a primer with a model building brush. Then a light intermediate sanding with 240 sandpaper in wood fiber direction. Now a colorless varnish with the brush. Again an intermediate sanding with sandpaper. And finally some varnish atomizations with varnish with the airbrush from 20 centimeters distance.
The beautiful wood grain comes out well.
So clean und seamless I can rarely paint only with a brush.
Best regards
Thomas
The rigging of the starboard anchor.
Rope guide for lighter anchors. . .
. . . and the implementation on the model with hooked block with double sheave for the tackle.
The guidance of the rope on the windlass.
Following pictures show the production of a double sheave with hooks, as any modeler can easily make them yourself.
5 mm double sheave from Dry-Dock Models & Parts and a piece of 0,4 mm blackened brass wire.
The wire is bent around the double sheave.
The wire ends are soft soldered, bent into a hook and then filed into shape with needle files.
After chemical blackening it looks like this. Really any modeler with a little patience can recreate this.
Best regards
Thomas
Rope guide for lighter anchors. . .
. . . and the implementation on the model with hooked block with double sheave for the tackle.
The guidance of the rope on the windlass.
Following pictures show the production of a double sheave with hooks, as any modeler can easily make them yourself.
5 mm double sheave from Dry-Dock Models & Parts and a piece of 0,4 mm blackened brass wire.
The wire is bent around the double sheave.The wire ends are soft soldered, bent into a hook and then filed into shape with needle files.
After chemical blackening it looks like this. Really any modeler with a little patience can recreate this.
Best regards
Thomas
Last edited:
Your “La Belle” is like her name: “The Beautiful”. That is what you made her!
Regards, Peter
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Great job, but a minor correction 
The cable on the windlass needs to be the other way round. Even if it fits worse with the hole on deck it is wound up towards the "thinner" part of the windlass.
The cable on the windlass needs to be the other way round. Even if it fits worse with the hole on deck it is wound up towards the "thinner" part of the windlass.
Hi Dubz!
I was guided by the "Ancre" monograph.
Image from the website of Bernard Frölich.
In the book "Anatomy of the ship", Alert, Peter Goodwin, Page 39, picture below you can see the course of the anchor cable as you describe it.
Since everything is loosely mounted, a change is possible at any time.
Thank you for the hint!
Best regards
Thomas
I was guided by the "Ancre" monograph.
Image from the website of Bernard Frölich.
In the book "Anatomy of the ship", Alert, Peter Goodwin, Page 39, picture below you can see the course of the anchor cable as you describe it.
Since everything is loosely mounted, a change is possible at any time.Thank you for the hint!
Best regards
Thomas
There must be some hook making school in Germany. Outstanding work Thomas!
C'est superbe,
Oh Ja - when we take a look at the metal works from @archjofo or also Thomas here - very good quality
I hope to learn a little bit from them next March in Augsburg, when I meet them
The sktech shown is I think printed in Rödings book - I realized, that we can not find so much information about horizontal windlass in the web, so we have to check here printed publications ..... at it seems that you are right with the revised order of the cable around the drum (in and out above) - many Thanks for showing us this detail
Hi HMS Terror, thanks for the hint!
First I can't find any clues, then I do. Source: Anatomy of the ship, Endeavour, Karl Heinz Marquardt, Page 74. Now the anchor cable is mounted correctly.
Hopefully no carpenter falls over the cordage.
The rest of the rigging of the anchor!
Gennaro, just try it once, it certainly works out with the hook making!
Uwe, I am also looking forward to Augsburg 2022. Finally once the ship models and their builders live to see!
Best regards
Thomas
First I can't find any clues, then I do. Source: Anatomy of the ship, Endeavour, Karl Heinz Marquardt, Page 74. Now the anchor cable is mounted correctly.
Hopefully no carpenter falls over the cordage.
The rest of the rigging of the anchor!
Gennaro, just try it once, it certainly works out with the hook making!
Uwe, I am also looking forward to Augsburg 2022. Finally once the ship models and their builders live to see!
Best regards
Thomas
Now all construction drawings are searched for eyebolts, round and triangular rings and missing fasteners are drawn in addition.
The kit contained four triangular rings (above in plastic bag). But as soon as I start, I make all the rings myself. In the case of round rings, the wire is wound on a corresponding drill and cut open with the side cutter. After completion of the eye screws and rings, the openings are bent shut, soft soldered and the components blackened.Best regards
Thomas