La Candelaria OcCre 1:85 - First build

[El Capi]

Fabelhaft. alles wunderbar gemact. es ist ein sehr gutes idea-kein pause zumachen-when kein dumaterial hast.
eine frage?hast tu ein E-.MAIL addresse-mein ist peandersen@telefonica,net- ich habe einige problema mit den management, undfur kan ich besser hilfen-mere alf 50 jahre model gebaut mit round 40 modelle. viel material uner spanishe shife..

This will be mostly my last message here on S, O, S..
As I wrote -in German- I have a high amount (as some has already gone to the waste bin- of Spanish warships from the year1700 to 1800. I have built not all but nearly the most important Spanish ships in the Trafalgerbattle. I have downloaded all the instruction manuals of each ship, drawings and painting material etc.
I am Danish born on the Nord Sea Cost-kuste- neat 80 years ago, the since 1978 I WAS TRANSFERRED TO SPAIN, TO OPEN A NEW OFFICE. AND HAVE BEEN HERE SINCE.
AS MENTIONED BEFORE I STARTED IN 1960TH when BILLING Boat started At that time I was working in the neighbour town to Billing, so I knew him well.

 

[dThomas]

At first, I am glad about all the likes and kind replies. Thank you for that!

This time just a quick update:
both frames are ready to be installed and have been dry fitted.


Producing the gratings comes next…

 

[dThomas]

After a long break without any activities at the shipyard I'm now back to work on the model.
During the break I have been busy with a non shipbuilding related project, a music video (

it contains no ships but at least some ocean view...)

I am right in the process of building some barrels that need to be placed on the lower deck before I can close the deck and continue with the hull and planking.
Unfortunately my first attempt was a failure and I had to change the design slightly and also the type of glue I am using. This were the steps to construct my first version:



The core was CNCed from walnut in two parts and then glued using PVA express glue



Then the top and bottom has been covered with thin Teak strips



Next was cutting the boards for the sides from Teak strips using the CNC router. After cleaning them up I glued the boards to the sides of the core construction using PVA express glue. This was kind of problematic. The "express" glue still takes a couple of minutes to dry and I have to hold the boards in place until cured. Since the boards are really small I had no choice other than holding the strips in place by hand. The problem was that the glue was not strong enough (or I was not patient enough to hold it in place long enough) so the boards don't follow the outside curvature exactly. In addition the final barrel looks a bit clumsy and I am not happy at all with the result.

So I decided to start over, adjust the shape and other parameters a bit and try it again.
The second try (on the left in the picture above) is currently in progress and I have just prepared the strips to cover the top/bottom and they will be glued on later this day. This time I will use contact glue, hopefully that will work better.

 

[El Capi]

After a long break without any activities at the shipyard I'm now back to work on the model.
During the break I have been busy with a non shipbuilding related project, a music video (

it contains no ships but at least some ocean view...)

I am right in the process of building some barrels that need to be placed on the lower deck before I can close the deck and continue with the hull and planking.
Unfortunately my first attempt was a failure and I had to change the design slightly and also the type of glue I am using. This were the steps to construct my first version:

View attachment 356078
View attachment 356079
The core was CNCed from walnut in two parts and then glued using PVA express glue

View attachment 356080
View attachment 356081
Then the top and bottom has been covered with thin Teak strips


View attachment 356082
Next was cutting the boards for the sides from Teak strips using the CNC router. After cleaning them up I glued the boards to the sides of the core construction using PVA express glue. This was kind of problematic. The "express" glue still takes a couple of minutes to dry and I have to hold the boards in place until cured. Since the boards are really small I had no choice other than holding the strips in place by hand. The problem was that the glue was not strong enough (or I was not patient enough to hold it in place long enough) so the boards don't follow the outside curvature exactly. In addition the final barrel looks a bit clumsy and I am not happy at all with the result.

So I decided to start over, adjust the shape and other parameters a bit and try it again.
The second try (on the left in the picture above) is currently in progress and I have just prepared the strips to cover the top/bottom and they will be glued on later this day. This time I will use contact glue, hopefully that will work better.

After a long break without any activities at the shipyard I'm now back to work on the model.
During the break I have been busy with a non shipbuilding related project, a music video (

it contains no ships but at least some ocean view...)

I am right in the process of building some barrels that need to be placed on the lower deck before I can close the deck and continue with the hull and planking.
Unfortunately my first attempt was a failure and I had to change the design slightly and also the type of glue I am using. This were the steps to construct my first version:

View attachment 356078
View attachment 356079
The core was CNCed from walnut in two parts and then glued using PVA express glue

View attachment 356080
View attachment 356081
Then the top and bottom has been covered with thin Teak strips


View attachment 356082
Next was cutting the boards for the sides from Teak strips using the CNC router. After cleaning them up I glued the boards to the sides of the core construction using PVA express glue. This was kind of problematic. The "express" glue still takes a couple of minutes to dry and I have to hold the boards in place until cured. Since the boards are really small I had no choice other than holding the strips in place by hand. The problem was that the glue was not strong enough (or I was not patient enough to hold it in place long enough) so the boards don't follow the outside curvature exactly. In addition the final barrel looks a bit clumsy and I am not happy at all with the result.

So I decided to start over, adjust the shape and other parameters a bit and try it again.
The second try (on the left in the picture above) is currently in progress and I have just prepared the strips to cover the top/bottom and they will be glued on later this day. This time I will use contact glue, hopefully that will work better.

When I was very young -10to12 years old- I used to help my father to make barrels. they were used for butter to be exported mainly to the UK, and as such empty when made. the form was that of image 1, and to help to hold it all together, we used the metal ring. it is important if you want to make this type you will have to shape your list on top and bottom-exp on the top about 4 cm and growing until the middle-about 6 cm, the first metal ring was used, to insert inside each one of the fillings- held in our case together with a close pin and then pressing with your other hands all together until the ring was full. the 2 rings were inserted, and with a hammer pressing down hard. the first one too, etc, then we turned the barrel upside down, and with a type of winch with a rope added to now the top part and with help of the winch we oppressed all parts together, and a new ring below was now fastening. will try to make by hand the way to do it over the weekend.

 

[dThomas]

When I was very young -10to12 years old- I used to help my father to make barrels. they were used for butter to be exported mainly to the UK, and as such empty when made. the form was that of image 1, and to help to hold it all together, we used the metal ring. it is important if you want to make this type you will have to shape your list on top and bottom-exp on the top about 4 cm and growing until the middle-about 6 cm, the first metal ring was used, to insert inside each one of the fillings- held in our case together with a close pin and then pressing with your other hands all together until the ring was full. the 2 rings were inserted, and with a hammer pressing down hard. the first one too, etc, then we turned the barrel upside down, and with a type of winch with a rope added to now the top part and with help of the winch we oppressed all parts together, and a new ring below was now fastening. will try to make by hand the way to do it over the weekend.

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That’s a good read, thanks for sharing!

 

[El Capi]

That’s a good read, thanks for sharing!

I am a bit delayed, but it will come. will have to draw the y hand,

 

[dThomas]

I had a hard time building the barrel I have designed.
After a second failed attempt, I came to the conclusion that a barrel with a convex outer curvature made using tapered boards in my scale is just beyond my abilities. I managed to glue all boards at one end to the solid barrel core. I used a wire twisted around the boards at one end holding them in place (just like the metal rings used for real barrels) but bending the boards around the curvature and securing them on the other side using another wire was just not possible for me. The scale is just too small (a barrel has a height of 11mm).
To recover from my faults I decided to omit the curvature and filed the sides of the core flat.
Now it was relatively easy to glue the flat untapered boards to the core. With this method I got a result I'm quite happy with:




I began fabricating two brass rings I will add to the barrel. I used some framing material from the kit's photo etched parts and got the right width and length. Unfortunately my old soldering iron is broken, so I need to get a new one and some brass black to balcken the soldered brass rings for the barrels. In the meantime I will start building a second identical barrel.

 

[El Capi]

I had a hard time building the barrel I have designed.
After a second failed attempt, I came to the conclusion that a barrel with a convex outer curvature made using tapered boards in my scale is just beyond my abilities. I managed to glue all boards at one end to the solid barrel core. I used a wire twisted around the boards at one end holding them in place (just like the metal rings used for real barrels) but bending the boards around the curvature and securing them on the other side using another wire was just not possible for me. The scale is just too small (a barrel has a height of 11mm).
To recover from my faults I decided to omit the curvature and filed the sides of the core flat.
Now it was relatively easy to glue the flat untapered boards to the core. With this method I got a result I'm quite happy with:
View attachment 358932
View attachment 358933
View attachment 358934

I began fabricating two brass rings I will add to the barrel. I used some framing material from the kit's photo etched parts and got the right width and length. Unfortunately my old soldering iron is broken, so I need to get a new one and some brass black to balcken the soldered brass rings for the barrels. In the meantime I will start building a second identical barrel.

I have not forgotten you, but my computer needed a check-up and a new Office installed, but missing German and Danish spelling. Now I will have to look at my simple drawing program, if not by hand. ich bitte dier ein enschulding, gruss poul

 

[dThomas]

Finally I completed the two barrels that will go on the lower deck. The second barrel has been constructed and brass rings have been soldered and blackened. Now the barrels are ready to be glued to the deck (any fixture would be invisible at the target location, so it has been omitted).
This was the first time I have blackened brass and I definitely need some practice. I like the final outcome, but the blackening itself is not as I would have expected. I assume I have not cleaned the parts enough before applying the blackening solution (used turpentine for cleaning).




Slightly off topic,
in the last weeks I have been busy working on a sides project: a pear wood key ring.
The CNC router was running for 5 hours to produce the front and back parts. It was a good practice for producing more complex shapes using the CNC router.

 

[Uwek]

Hello SOS builders,

Now after I have gathered a huge load of information and inspiration from the fine build logs here on SOS it’s finally time to start my own first model.
I have chosen La Candelaria from OcCre which seems the right size and complexity for me to start with ( but it was hard to withstand buying one of the larger more complex models available, like for example the ZHL San Felipe )
Since there seems to be no other build log for this ship I will start one by myself and maybe it will be helpful for others also interested in this model.

Before I had even purchased the kit I already started making plans on how I could modify it. So I also purchased some 3 and 9 x 0.5 mm Teak strips which I will use for a custom deck planking pattern.

But at first it’s time to see what‘s actually in the box…

Additionally I made a draft picture in PhotoShop to test the colors I want to use, and this shows which colors I want to use on the model:

Finally some pictures of my first steps, not so much progress so far but at least building has started!
A small note: I was surprised that the bulkheads are sitting relatively loose inside the notches so I had to be careful while the wood glue dries to ensure a right angle.

Hallo @dThomas
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY

 

[dThomas]

Hallo @dThomas
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY

Thank you for the birthday wishes Uwe! Much appreciated!

Currently I am completing the remaining deck planking, so currently not much to show…

 

[dThomas]

I have been busy on several areas on the ship so it is time to show some progress updates. I finally have finished simulating the nails on the main deck and it has been prepared with oil so it is ready for installation. Additionally the last remaining deck piece has been planked and is waiting to receive nails:



Beside that a little improvement project:
a mast base for the rear fake deck below the grating
I saw this kind of detail on the plans of Le Fleuron and thought it would be a great addition for this area so I prepared the piece using the CNC route and installed it in place. It took not much time but I think it really adds interest to that area:



Next up is finishing the forward lower fake deck so I can start installing the deck pieces permanently.

 

[sevish]

Amazing build ,great scratch build.
Keep posting your progress.
cheers

 

[Имиширо]

Привет, Дтомас. Так получилось, что я тоже собираю "Ла Канделарию" и хочу сообщить тебе об ошибке, которую ты совершил. Я очень надеюсь, что ты не приклеил кормовую палубу и твой браузер сможет перевести мой русский язык, на английский. ) Тебе нужно убрать закругления ватервейса и продолжить их так. как я указал синей линией на твоей фотографии. Дело в том, что когда ты установишь Фальшборт(он указан красной линией на фотографии), то он будет визуально перекрывать некоторые стыки, которые ты увел в сторону будущих галерей. Стыдно признать, но я увидел некоторые элементы у тебя и решил повторить на своей Канделярии и наткнулся на эту ошибку, которую увидел уже поздно. У меня светлая палуба с коричневой окантовкой и это смотрится более заметно, что фальшборт перекрывает линию ватервейса =(

 

[El Capi]

Hola Dtomas. Yo también estoy construyendo La Candelaria y quiero contarte el error que cometiste. Realmente espero que no haya pegado la cubierta de popa y que su navegador pueda traducir mi idioma ruso al inglés. ) Debe eliminar la curvatura de la vía fluvial y continuar así. como indiqué con una línea azul en tu foto. El caso es que cuando instales el Bulwark (lo indica la línea roja en la foto), se superpondrá visualmente a algunas de las juntas que alejaste hacia las futuras galerías. Me da vergüenza admitirlo, pero vi algunos elementos tuyos y decidí repetirlo en mi Candelaria y me topé con este error, que vi demasiado tarde. Tengo una cubierta clara con ribete marrón y se nota más que el baluarte se superpone a la línea del canal

Привет, Дтомас. Так получилось, что я тоже собираю "Ла Канделарию" и хочу сообщить тебе об ошибке, которую ты совершил. Я очень надеюсь, что ты не приклеил кормовую палубу и твой браузер сможет перевести мой русский язык, на английский. ) Тебе нужно убрать закругления ватервейса и продолжить их так. как я указал синей линией на твоей фотографии. Дело в том, что когда ты установишь Фальшборт(он указан красной линией на фотографии), то он будет визуально перекрывать некоторые стыки, которые ты увел в сторону будущих галерей. Стыдно признать, но я увидел некоторые элементы у тебя и решил повторить на своей Канделярии и наткнулся на эту ошибку, которую увидел уже поздно. У меня светлая палуба с коричневой окантовкой и это смотрится более заметно, что фальшборт перекрывает линию ватервейса =(

View attachment 376474

View attachment 376476

Hola Dtomas. Yo también estoy construyendo La Candelaria y quiero contarte el error que cometiste. Realmente espero que no haya pegado la cubierta de popa y que su navegador pueda traducir mi idioma ruso al inglés. ) Debe eliminar la curvatura de la vía fluvial y continuar así. como indiqué con una línea azul en tu foto. El caso es que cuando instales el Bulwark (lo indica la línea roja en la foto), se superpondrá visualmente a algunas de las juntas que alejaste hacia las futuras galerías. Me da vergüenza admitirlo, pero vi algunos elementos tuyos y decidí repetirlo en mi Candelaria y me topé con este error, que vi demasiado tarde. Tengo una cubierta clara con ribete marrón y se nota más que el baluarte se superpone a la línea del canal

WELL DONE AN EXPLANED-ELCAPI PS NO PROBLEN RUSIEN

 

[dThomas]

Имиширо thank you for showing me your findings! And it's always good to see others building this kit. Do you have your own build log?
Sad to hear that you ran into this issue because you were following my pictures. You remind me that I always need to check the final build result first and also check the instructions before introducing any scratch build changes. I simply forgot that these extensions are part of the galleries.
I am lucky because I did not use different wood colors so it will be hardly noticeable when the ship is complete. Especially because I plan to install waterways (in the instructions they omitted them on the after deck).
This is a dry fit how it will look when finished:



I hope you find a good way to recover the problem on your build!

Имиширо wrote:

Hello, Dtomas. I happen to be building La Candelaria too, and I want to let you know about a mistake you made. I really hope you didn't glue the stern deck and your browser can translate my Russian, into English. ) You need to remove the waterway roundings and continue them as I indicated by the blue line in your picture. The fact is that when you install the Bulwark (it is indicated by the red line in the photo), it will visually overlap some of the joints that you have taken away towards the future galleries. I'm embarrassed to admit, but I saw some of the elements from you and decided to repeat it on my Candelaria and stumbled upon this mistake, which I saw too late. I have a light deck with brown trim and it looks more noticeable that the bulwark overlaps the waterway line =(

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

 

[dThomas]

Thank you for your comments and likes!

Over the weekend I had some modelling time and was able to make some progress.
I completed the structure on the lower deck below the font grating.
Initially I planned to let the mast end at the lower deck but later I decided to construct a vertical extension of the bell tower that continues below deck. The next picture shows the new part to be inserted below deck that will hold the mast and the pillars that will hold the ships bell that will be installed later on top:


The first task included some demolition work: removing a part of the center plywood piece and cutting out material so I can insert a center plank and get a vertical edge to glue the new wood piece:


Next up the various stages of shaping the new component, at first as it came out of the mill, next after some sanding and finally in place:






With this piece in place I am ready to permanently glue the main deck, so this is next up.