La Salamandre, 1752. CAFMODEL. 1/48 scale

[Uwek]

Wow......you are fast, very good progress.....and she is looking realy good.
Good to hear, that the assembling of the stern castle structure turned out not so complicated......this will be my next main task
Maybe you could show us also a photo from bow section and stern section in addition - could be helpful for me

 

[ADC]

Wow......you are fast, very good progress.....and she is looking realy good.
Good to hear, that the assembling of the stern castle structure turned out not so complicated......this will be my next main task
Maybe you could show us also a photo from bow section and stern section in addition - could be helpful for me

Thanks Uwek, I got the hawser pieces on today. They were a little too narrow to match with up No 1 rib and I had to add a 1.5mm strip to No 7 hawser piece to both sides which fixed the problem. The other week I also chipped the top of the beak. Don’t know how that happened. Must have knocked on something. Will repair later. In the next couple of days I will finish the filler pieces to the hawser area and then a few days of sanding to be done.

 

[Uwek]

Thanks Uwek, I got the hawser pieces on today. They were a little too narrow to match with up No 1 rib and I had to add a 1.5mm strip to No 7 hawser piece to both sides which fixed the problem. The other week I also chipped the top of the beak. Don’t know how that happened. Must have knocked on something. Will repair later. In the next couple of days I will finish the filler pieces to the hawser area and then a few days of sanding to be done.

This problem I saw once one a chinese log where he added also an additional strip, so not 7 but 7+1.....


I was think about adding some spacers between the hawse pieces, like the english ships had often, but with adjustments at the height of the hawse holes

but this would be not correct (but the parallel hawse pieces like in the kit are anyway not completely correct).......what do you think?

It´s a pity with the chip broken away....hope you found the chipped piece so it can be easier repaired....

 

[ADC]

This problem I saw once one a chinese log where he added also an additional strip, so not 7 but 7+1.....
View attachment 42707View attachment 42708View attachment 42709

I was think about adding some spacers between the hawse pieces, like the english ships had often, but with adjustments at the height of the hawse holes
View attachment 42710
but this would be not correct (but the parallel hawse pieces like in the kit are anyway not completely correct).......what do you think?

It´s a pity with the chip broken away....hope you found the chipped piece so it can be easier repaired....

I could not find the chip. Will fix when model is closer to completion just in case something else breaks. Not sure the hawser problem affects every kit. There seems to several interpretations always happening. Your stern post structure is different to mine for example. As a build can reflect a builders interpretation as well as historical accuracy I don’t see any issues with a custom modification. It will be a great model either way.

 

[ADC]

I have been doing the hull sanding. The outside about 80% complete and the interior about 50% complete. Not my favourite job but take my time and only do a little at a time. The dust is everywhere and I have to work outside. The lines are looking very straight and clean. Though a lot more work building a POF there seems less trouble than building a POB hull which always seem in my experience to have some annoying imperfections. I am glad I added the tabs and temporary support stringers. Keeps the hull solid and stable while working and less flexing when applying pressure. Using a dremel with 25mm rubber disk mandrel sander. Very handy tool. Also plenty of hand rubbing and a Proxxon pen sander for fiddly bits.

 

[Pat71]

Looks good.gonna be nice clean hull!

 

[Uwek]

She is comming out realy nice - great progress
Keep going the good work

 

[Bryian]

Superb work as usual my friend.

 

[Donnie]

Incredible - I love the tone of the wood. Very professionally done.

Donnie

 

[ADC]

I have now completed most of the sanding which is a relief as finally the worst of the dusty work is finished. I have laid the first two interior tapered hull lining planks. Only the starboard side will be fully planked as the port side will be open to show the interior. Not sure how to go about the interior lower hull planking. Seems to be the opposite to planking the outside of a hull but I have to work it out as it is anew experience for me. Third and fourth photos on how it is to be done are from the 4Hmodel website. Any ideas and suggestions welcome.
I used these great little spring clamps which I bought from DAISO. A good shop to buy cheap small Japanese tools and craft items. The gaps in the ribs are too small for most clamps and these did the job without the need to use pins or nails. They have a nice grip also and will be handy for many later parts of the build. I am also starting to mark out the lines for the interior main deck and beams. I have modified these waterline markers and added a ruler to transfer lines to the interior.

 

[ADC]

Slow progress lately. I have been lining the inside of the starboard hull with 1.5mm planks. Quite awkward work as there is limited space. Like planking outside of a hull but more difficult as everything is in reverse and inside the hull. 8 plank widths in the middle reduced to about 3 widths at the bow and stern so far. Hard to clamp planks and temporary nails are required when glueing. No way to work with measurements for me here so I cut and lay each piece by eye. On some build logs, modelers choose to leave this part out and leave both sides of the ribs bare.

 

[Uwek]

It is looking very good my friend - great work (and you are still ahead) -
It is good to have a pre-decessor, so I can lurke also at your model, I am still sanding the hull.

 

[Uwek]

It is looking very good my friend - great work (and you are still ahead) -
It is good to have a pre-decessor, so I can lurke also at your model, I am still sanding the hull.

It is now the time I have to think about the interiour planking, of how to do it, to make or not to make the waterplanks (cover plank on top of the longitiudinal drainage saystem......I do not know the correct english term for this plank?) on both sides of the keel.......so I tried to lurke on your built.......my friend: I need some advice ....... you are ahead to my built...hope to see how much? Are there any news on your Salamandre?

 

[ADC]

It is now the time I have to think about the interiour planking, of how to do it, to make or not to make the waterplanks (cover plank on top of the longitiudinal drainage saystem......I do not know the correct english term for this plank?) on both sides of the keel.......so I tried to lurke on your built.......my friend: I need some advice ....... you are ahead to my built...hope to see how much? Are there any news on your Salamandre?

HimUwek, I have done some more work on the inner planking on starboard side. Been busy doing other things lately. This is very slow and tedious work and can only do 2 or 3 sections of plank at a time. Here they look a bit rough but will come up nice when sanded down. I don’t know what you mean by the “water plank”. I assume it is the first plank next to keel which is flat. I am fully planking the starboard side and only adding the first 2 or 3 planks to the port side along the keel. I hope to have the starboard side fully planked up to the where the main deck beams meet in a week. After that I will be away for a month and will not be able to restart build till mid September. My wife and I will be spending a month in China staying near West Lake in Hangzhou. I am sure you will overtake me by then.

 

[Maarten]

Enjoy your holidays, looking forward to your progress in September.

 

[Uwek]

HimUwek, I.............. I don’t know what you mean by the “water plank”. I assume it is the first plank next to keel which is flat. ......

Very good progress.......I am happy for you for your time out and your plan to make holidays....and happy for me that I have the chance for overtaking (or coming close) with my built.
Now I know what is the correct term! The "Limber Board".
The kit it is not prepared to install a Limber Board, but they are shown in the Boudriot drawings - see photo of cross sections with blue marked arrows

It is not visible in detail on your photo, if you are doing them. In the other chinese and russian logs, I also have the impression, that nobody is making them......

 

[Peglegreg]

G'day Paul
I'm so impressed with your work my friend and I am still flabigastard knowing that you're are doing such an immaculate job and each day you have to pack up and clean!....... it's beyond me.
Hope you and your admiral will have a great time in China.

Away from your baby for a month, hope that you will not get any withdrawal symptoms! ​

Havasafetripmematie
Greg

 

[Uwek]

China is a good place, and in one month there can be possibilities, for buying a nice new kit

 

[JohnA]

"...The other week I also chipped the top of the beak. Don’t know how that happened. Must have knocked on something. Will repair later...."

Hi ADC,

I’m not sure if you have resolved the chipped piece on the ‘beak’ yet. If you haven’t found the broken piece then you will need to make repairs.
There are several ways to do this- like carve a piece that meets the breakage shape and glue to model.
I have found that shaping the piece on the model to be as flat as possible while removing the absolute minimum material then making a small piece to match this works best.
Two tips would be to:
match the wood type and grain direction as closely as possible
Mix some of the same wood’s saw dust with the glue before gluing to hide any gaps and make the glue line disappear.

John

 

[ADC]

Hi ADC,

I’m not sure if you have resolved the chipped piece on the ‘beak’ yet. If you haven’t found the broken piece then you will need to make repairs.
There are several ways to do this- like carve a piece that meets the breakage shape and glue to model.
I have found that shaping the piece on the model to be as flat as possible while removing the absolute minimum material then making a small piece to match this works best.
Two tips would be to:
match the wood type and grain direction as closely as possible
Mix some of the same wood’s saw dust with the glue before gluing to hide any gaps and make the glue line disappear.

John

Thank you John for your advice. I will carve a matching piece of wood and attach. As the damage is where the figurehead and scroll decoration covers the front of the beak it should be an easy repair and well hidden.