La Salamandre, 1752. CAFMODEL. 1/48 scale

G'day ADC
I'm amazed that your wife will let you back in the kitchen. If I tried something like that, I'll be talking in a high voice. Ouch.......
Havagooday
Greg
 
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Luckily my wife still works and can I play uninterrupted during the day. I have to cook dinner also in between glueing bits and pieces. The sanding and grinding I do outside or else I would be in big trouble.
 
Luckily my wife still works and can I play uninterrupted during the day. I have to cook dinner also in between glueing bits and pieces. The sanding and grinding I do outside or else I would be in big trouble.

If you do.....I would assume that I'll have to look for your final post in the obituaries of your local newspaper. LOL
:p
Havagooday and a safe one
Greg
 
I have finished assembling the ribs and started the bevelling and preliminary sanding. The ship is starting to get a pleasing shape sitting in the cradle. Lots more work to do before attaching keel assembly. All the ribs seem to fit right at this stage, well designed and the guide marks are a great help and appear accurate.246A7AAA-8123-4FE0-B149-D7B3C0204261.jpeg89192EEC-08DD-4A49-88B8-84BE7439513A.jpegB08FA3CA-9F94-46D8-B7D7-FB7DBB57B353.jpeg
 
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Congratulations on the progress so far!
It must be a great feeling to do all the forms. Now only the bow and stern stuff to do.
:)
Brilliant work my friend.
Don't forget to do all the sanding and grinding OUTSIDE.
;):p

Your wife might like dust over her table.
Havagooday and happymodeling mate
Greg
 
Your Frames are looking good my friend.....so you did it..... great performance and I am happy to hear, that they are fitting good in the jig. Do i understand it correct, that they are not fixed already to the keel? So in moment dry fit in the jig....
I can also recognize your additional reinforcement of the jig..... looks good and stabile, I will do mine in a similar way, I think also it will be necessary > thanks for the hint
 
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Your Frames are looking good my friend.....so you did it..... great performance and I am happy to hear, that they are fitting good in the jig. Do i understand it correct, that they are not fixed already to the keel? So in moment dry fit in the jig....
I can also recognize your additional reinforcement of the jig..... looks good and stabile, I will do mine in a similar way, I think also it will be necessary > thanks for the hint
Hi Uwek. The ribs are resting loose with no keel and mostly sitting on the rib supports built into jig. I have not glued the A and B ends of the jig to leave them free to remove for access and inspection as I build. They are dry fit and the jig is strong enough. I can glue later if necessary.AE77C4E2-E255-4E58-BA97-9A4892342F13.jpeg
 
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This is a good idea to leave the A and B part loose.....I wast honking of cutting a square area out to be able to look along the axis / keel. Yours is the better way. Thanks for showing
 
As with Uwek I have been trying to find the correct angle for the rib 45 separation from rib 44. Is it 10 or 11 degrees or other? Looking at the ANCRE plans there is a uniform separation of about 2mm for the first 44 ribs and 4mm between 44 and 45 at the widest part. 44 and 45 are joined together at the floor with no spacing as with the other ribs then 45 angles away. Now the joined rib 45 halfs are a thickness of 9.4mm instead of 1cm as should be. Due to this error and the oblique irregular shape required for the floor piece it has been hard for me to determine any trustworthy measurements to gauge the correct angle.

Looking at other online build logs there seems to be all kinds of varying seperation from what looks about right to what appears like up to a centimetre in spacing. Some appear clearly wrong but which? I abandoned using pre determined measurements and worked by eye and guesswork to get to the correct final 4mm separation of the ribs and resigned myself to make new pieces from scratch if I failed. After a lot of thinking I think I got it about right. Here is the roughly partially finished rib as of now. Looking at the rest of the transom pieces there is room for allowances if needed. So there is some leeway if in error.5056BBDA-8039-43BD-81D3-FD3F3513D2C4.jpeg71F00271-B9A1-4021-B2BC-A9AACC6F5336.jpegFB0F7C12-65D7-48CB-A040-68CF0813C6A8.jpeg1FF6318A-67D9-4874-8BE0-B32E482DDF8B.jpeg1FF6318A-67D9-4874-8BE0-B32E482DDF8B.jpeg
 
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This realy looking good. Thanks for the pre-work and sharing your additional investigations.
On which angle you did now your floor timber?
Due to the fact, that the floor timber has to be shaped additional in the area where he is connected to the floor timber of 44, I guess there is still room to adjust the 4mm space at the top of the frame, isnˋt it?
 
This realy looking good. Thanks for the pre-work and sharing your additional investigations.
On which angle you did now your floor timber?
Due to the fact, that the floor timber has to be shaped additional in the area where he is connected to the floor timber of 44, I guess there is still room to adjust the 4mm space at the top of the frame, isnˋt it?
Hi Uwek, hard for me to gauge angle on such a small working area. But it appears 10 or more degrees. As you can see the V piece is cut and finished differently to the plans as I was working by eye. Not according to plan but worked. Yes there is adjustment opportunities. When I sanded the edge of 45 backing to frame 44 I had to add a piece of brown paper to build up left rib to get correct allignement for both rib ends. The thinnest part of rib floor at Botton of V is now about 4.8mm. 21932432-067D-4F60-9676-F23D33D23F26.jpeg
 
I have been assembling the keel structure recently. I can only appreciate and admire the scratch builders dedication and talent even more so now who make these full frame boats from scratch. There is an enormous amount of work and discipline required for a kit like this let alone building from scratch. I could never have that sort of dedication and passion.
The keel parts are very accurately cut and fit well but there is slight variation in the thickness of the sheets holding the parts so there is some problems. I had to build up some thinner sections with tape when joined so that there will be equal sanding to both sides to even everything out. As with Uwek, one cannot have too many clamps. When I assembled the bottom sections of the keel to my horror I found a significant bend to left on the last third of the keel. I taped the keel to a long straight edge and steamed it with a kettle steamer which I bought cheaply from ALDI. Will come in handy later when bending planks also. After steaming I glued the top notched sections of the keel and clamped the completed keel back onto the straight edge. This pulled everything back correctly into a straight line. Last photo is assembled keel ready for final finishing.


764C928D-0155-4964-BEC9-FDE2E8A3030D.jpegF9603D27-0A31-4EC7-983E-9C86D6ACB2C1.jpegE111E0F2-4FE0-47F2-B285-EE90B5192068.jpeg118314B8-5354-4927-8CB2-6249B4FEE56F.jpegB26A4F7C-9CC3-4D8D-BCFB-FEF9FACCBB69.jpeg
 
Hi Uwek, hard for me to gauge angle on such a small working area. But it appears 10 or more degrees. As you can see the V piece is cut and finished differently to the plans as I was working by eye. Not according to plan but worked. Yes there is adjustment opportunities. When I sanded the edge of 45 backing to frame 44 I had to add a piece of brown paper to build up left rib to get correct allignement for both rib ends. The thinnest part of rib floor at Botton of V is now about 4.8mm.

G'day ADC
Ohwhattabeauty mate.
you're doing a bonzza of a job.
Regarding the above quote from you, I've a Digital Inclinometer Spirit Level.
I got from eBay and it's great. You can place it on any surface and set to zero and the next surface that you rest it on is the true angle from the first. It got a very small base area and it's very inaccurate.
20180326_153257.jpg
On eBay there are lots of styles to choose from. As you can see, it's quite cheap, so havalook my mate.
Havagooday and happymodeling mate
Greg
 
Thanks Greg, this is definitely something I need for the future.
 
Finally worked out what the mysterious numbered 45 jig pieces are for. They are to help set the angles for the final rib floor piece. Nothing in the instructions and diagrams about this and I found out after completing rib 45 and attached it to the stern post. It actually came to me in my sleep during a dream. How bizarre.
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Therefore it is printed „45“ on the part ! Logical.....somehow....
Many thanks for the hint.
Nevertheless I did not see realy the need of this jig piece, due to the fact, that you have to prepare the frame 45 complete, before you install the frame on the sternpost / frame 44...
Many Thanks for sharing
 
I have been lining up the keel in the cradle. I could not find my plumb line but I found my laser level pointer and used it to line everything up. This I found this an easy method. I had to modify the keel tab holes on the base of the cradle a bit and I glued small pieces to hold the keel and prow in firmly without moving. I used middle rib 21 as a baseline to see that the keel was longitudinal correct and it sits nice and vertical in the correct alignment without any adjustments. Now to struggle with the transom. 73FB260F-853E-4656-9472-808535933E71.jpegCC794B27-013F-458B-881F-65DB2CDB4512.jpeg
 
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G'day ADC
A quote from you to Uwe today.......
.......then having to clean up after I finish working.
I don't know how you can do this, if I have to clean up every time after 'playing with my toys', as my wife puts it.
I'll go crazzzzzy!
Happymodeling mate
Greg
 
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"Clean up in isle 3". lol I admire a man who has the patience to lay everything out only to roll everything up each time. My work space gets a bit unruly and it stays right were it's at. But with all that aside, your work on this kit is looking really nice - and that's all that matters. Cheers!
 
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