Lauck Street Shipyard AVS 1:32 Plank On Frame

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BACK WHEN EVERYONE WAS YOUNGER.. IN 2015

Here are a few more details.

Alclad II Metalizer was airbrushed onto the 3D printed lantern. First a gloss black base, followed by the polished brass metalizer
File Jul 30, 4 24 02 PM.jpeg

Details3.jpg

The ship's fictitious name was hand painted on the 3D printed placard
Details4.jpg

Binnacle. Simple, elegant - admiralty style
Details5.jpg
 
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IN AUGUST OF 2015 WE WERE NEARING COMPLETION OF THIS MODEL ....

The rudder is a model in itself. About 6 hours into it so far and it's still not quite done.
Rudder.jpg

Unlike all my previous ships, the rudder on this model actually operates.
The rudder comes up into the cabin where a tiller is attached to some simplified steering gear rigging.
Tiller.jpg

The practicum called for the tiller to be covered by a planked up box.
Tiller Cover.jpg

But I opted to leave the box off to better show off the tiller and steering gear rigging.
Keep in mind, this is an admiralty model and the steering gear is only intended to be a stylized representation and not historically accurate.
Tiller No Cover.jpg

The rudder pintle are simulated with black craft paper.
Rudder3.jpg
 
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IN AUGUST OF 2015 WE WERE NEARING COMPLETION OF THIS MODEL ....

The rudder is a model in itself. About 6 hours into it so far and it's still not quite done.
View attachment 171986

Unlike all my previous ships, the rudder on this model actually operates.
The rudder comes up into the cabin where a tiller is attached to some simplified steering gear rigging.
View attachment 171987

The practicum called for the tiller to be covered by a planked up box.
View attachment 171988

But I opted to leave the box off to better show off the tiller and steering gear rigging.
Keep in mind, this is an admiralty model and the steering gear is only intended to be a stylized representation and not historically accurate.
View attachment 171989

The rudder pintle are simulated with black craft paper.
View attachment 171990

Such a beautiful progres, I admire your professional skills :)
 
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AUGUST 2015.....

The bowsprit is basically just a dowel inserted into the bow and through the bowprit bitt.
File Jul 26, 5 50 27 PM.jpeg

Installed the arched beams on the rear cabin and just a few planks to represent the roof. The ships wheel is 3D printed and painted to closely match the wood. It actually turns and operates the rudder. Elmtree pumps and binnacle also installed.
Final4.jpg

The windless is also another 3D printed part. Admiralty models are always nice with their minimal rigging.
It is looking like this model is very near completion.
Final3.jpg
 
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THIS IS NOT FROM TODAY. IT IS FROM 2015

I've always found the Nibbing Strake to be challenging to make. But for this kit, it was very easy thanks to the printed templates provided. I just rubber cemented the templates to the provided strip wood and cut them out on my mini scroll saw. Over the years I have become very proficient with this particular tool and am able to use it with a lot of precision. The parts fit right in-place with very little adjustment needed.

I've been using this same saw since the early '90's. The templates make this task quick and easy.
View attachment 169536

The upper part is supposed to be one piece. Not sure why I made it two. LOL
View attachment 169537

I soaked the second piece from the left in water for a few minutes then glued it in place. This allowed for a very precise fitment through the curve of the hull.
View attachment 169538
What type of scroll saw do you have? I bought an inexpensive one and it does not seem to have much support near the cutting part.
 
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What type of scroll saw do you have?
My miniature one is just the cheap old Microlux version you can buy from Micromark. There are other brands that are similar. Nothing special about it. When cutting wood this fine, it is more about practice and technique than the tool itself.
 
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to get zero clearance on sides.
The only problem with running zero clearance on a miniature scroll saw is that you actually WANT the blade to flex some to give you the fine control needed. At least that is how I learned to use it. Notice in the picture of my saw it has an adjustable foot (like a sewing machine) that supports the wood in a similar fashion that a zero clearance plate would.

So, either way will work. The most important thing is practice and technique...
 
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