Lauck Street Shipyard AVS 1:32 Plank On Frame

LOG CONTINUES FROM 2015

The bow hawse frames is probably the most difficult task for the whole model. My next several posts will describe the detailed process I used for shaping the hawse frames. Keep in mind, the photos will be of the left/port side. Let's start by cutting out the template for Hawse 1 and rubber cementing it to the inside/outer edge of the frame. Then, fit the frame into place on the step in the stem and slide it downward until it comes into contact with Frame 11. Make sure the frame stays square with the keel/stem. Read the captions that go along with the next several photos.

Remove material with your dremel where the orange arrow points in order to close the gap at the blue arrow

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Remove a little wood at a time until the gap at the blue arrow is gone. You should be just about exactly where the reference mark on the template drawing falls

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With the hawse frame in-place, use your pencil to mark the inside edge along the inner length and at the foot (see arrows)

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These lines will define the inside bevel for the frame. The point at the blue arrow will be the inside bottom corner between the keel and Frame 11.

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At the top of the hawse frame, mark a diagonal line from the outer edge of the template to the corner that rests in the stem-step. Mark a second line parallel to the first beginning at the inner edge/corner of the template. These two lines should be about 3/16" apart.

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Now, mark a line that runs along the outside of the frame along the stem and at the foot as shown.

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The combination of the paper template and the drawn lines will help you see exactly where the wood needs to be removed to obtain the desired shape. Note: It's the unshaded ares in these photos that get carved away. Now that we have that understanding, we can begin removing wood.

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To begin shaping the hawse frame, I chose to start at the top as it's easier to visualize. The first objective is to shape the upper 1" of the frame so that the temporary battens will lie properly. Use your drawn reference lines as the guide - you might be surprised at how accurate they are.

Start with your #22 and carve away some of the more obvious excess wood. I usually focus on slicing away some of the corner edge.

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Use your dremel to sand the frame right down to the reference lines. Do this for both sides.

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Place the hawse frame back into position and you will see that the temporary battens lie very nice against the area we just shaped

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Now that we have the top of the frame shaped, we will move on to carve out the inner surface. You want to shape based on the plane defined by your drawn lines and the paper template. Ultimately, this plane needs to be flat width-wise but curved to follow the inner shape of the keel/bow/stem length-wise. See the photos and descriptions below for more info:

Start by using your #22 to trim away the excess wood down the length of the frame's inner surface

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Use your dremel to finalize the shaping right down to the drawn reference line and the edge of the paper template. Use the drawing on the end of the frame as your guide to determine the proper angle

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Fit the frame back into place and you can see how nicely the inner shape flows. It's only roughed in here and will be cleaned up later with a solid mini-sander (do not use a soft sanding stick). Now all we have left to do is the outer surface

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The outer side of the hawse frame is shaped exactly the same way using the edge of the paper template and the line we drew as a guide. Carve away some of the excess wood with your #22 and then do the final shaping with your dremel tool. Once the shaping is done you can see how nicely the hawse frame fits into its location and how its shape flows into the general outline of the ship. Keep in mind the rabbet has not yet been cut in this photo.

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The second and third hawse frames are shaped using the same method as the first. Although no paper template is provided for the third hawse frame you should have no trouble determining where to draw the lines for its shaping once you have experience for the first two.

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Very well explained - the hawse pieces can be a b***** to get right!
When I built Kingfisher I first carved a set of frames in Balsa wood to get the profiles clear in my own mind before I committed to cutting the boxwood!

Ted
 
Hello Daniel, This is exactly what I would suggest. It can be made from the foam stack, yes it might not be an accurately cut, but hey...this isn't something like machinist square where precision is a must. On another hand, foams have different grades\softnessess. For our purpose, it must be stiff and at the same time cushion. Here is one I made from my son's headphones packaging (I got his veto on this) LOL

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You can also use an old pillow. Ideal to work on, both on bench and knee.
I don't like keel clanks - especially on larger models - too much scope for damage!

Ted
 
What a score if he got a Kingfisher. Man that’s one rare premo kit.
I was lucky - I contacted Bob when I read about Kingfisher some nine or ten years ago. He had just finished production of the kit and didn't intend doing any more, but he noted my interest and contacted me a few weeks later to say someone had defaulted on their order and would I like it? He had the money next day!
Best kit I have ever built.

Ted
 
what did you use as search for Bob's kits on eBay?
Try things like... "Robert Hunt model kits", "Lauck Street Shipyards", "Bob Hunt model kits", "LSS Kingfisher", etc.... Be prepared to pay many hundreds of dollars per kit if you are a serious buyer. His Kingfisher alone has over 2,000 CNC Boxwood parts.
 
Yes, I am reading the history of how you completed these builds.

Makes me wish I was more active a few years back when kits were still available.

I still need to get an order placed with Bob's website to get the good training guides he has available to learn the methods these kits used for building such a fine ship model.
 
IN 2015 I WAS BUSY BUILDING MODELS

Here is the completed bowsprit bitts. I'll wait to install the bitts and pumps until later so that I don't accidently break them. With this work completed Chapter 8 is done. Now is also a good time to drill out the oar sweeps and scuppers through the bulwark planking. In the next chapter we will continue with deck details to include cannons, caprails, windless, catheads, timberheads, false frames, and bowsprit. Still a lot to do ...

Total build duration so far: 297.5 hours

Bowsprit Bitts.jpg
 
MORE FROM 2015

The kit provides these attractive little cannons. The cannons themselves are 3D printed in white. The carriages and trucks are in Cherry. These can easily be used as the basis for some super detailing. As this is an Admiralty model, I only did basic assembly as shown in the practicum. I painted the cannon black and very lightly sanded it with 400 grit paper to bring out some of the highlighted details. Make sure you use a paint brush to get some paint down into the inside of the barrel. Otherwise you might look in there and see some white. The level of detail that gets rendered by the 3D printing process is quite good especially considering how small they are.

Total build duration so far: 312 hours

Cannon.jpg


Details continue ...

Cute little chimney made from styrene tube. Simple to make, it looks nice, and it even rotates like the real thing.
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Caprail, cathead, swivel gun mounts, and the channel all installed per the practicum
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Here we can see the false frame timbers, the cathead, and completed main bitts. I have also poly coated everything
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Guys! I’m trying to decide whether to post my entire POF AVS build Log here on SOS. There’ll be a lot of repetition of Mike’s info, but different photos and some different techniques. Alternatively I could simply “hijack” Mike’s log on occasion when I have different info to offer. Full log or selective posting? Ideas?
A separate log would be fine with me.
 
A separate log would be fine with me.
Doc's full log is out here. Here is the link, enjoy!!

 
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